WatchTime Blog – WatchTime – USA's No.1 Watch Magazine https://www.watchtime.com Wristwatch reviews, watch news, watch database. Sat, 20 Jul 2024 15:07:41 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.watchtime.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/WatchTime_Icon-205x205.jpg WatchTime Blog – WatchTime – USA's No.1 Watch Magazine https://www.watchtime.com 32 32 Power at a Premium: 6 Watches Under $3,500 with Great Power Reserves https://www.watchtime.com/featured/power-at-a-premium-6-watches-under-3500-with-great-power-reserves/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/power-at-a-premium-6-watches-under-3500-with-great-power-reserves/#respond Sat, 20 Jul 2024 15:15:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=125286 This article is from the WatchTime Archives and was originally published in 2021.

Of the various ongoing trends in the watch world, ever-improving power reserves in mechanical timepieces are among the most practical. With collectors often owning a variety of pieces they like to change in and out on a daily basis, owning a mechanical timepiece that’s still running after it’s been put down for a few days is a luxury that many appreciate.

For a long time, exceptional power reserves were frequently reserved only for watches within the mid to high range of manufacturing and pricing, but in the past few years especially, that is beginning to change. There are now plenty of watches in the sub-$3,500 price category available with three-day or better reserves. We put together a list of six of these pieces, which includes offerings from Baume & Mercier, Christopher Ward, Certina, Hamilton, Tissot, and Oris.

Certina DS-1 ($650+)

Certina is a brand best known by most for its popular dive watch, the Certina DS PH200M, which we recently went hands-on with last month (and which you can read more about here). In addition to that popular diver, however, the brand also has some hidden gems in its catalogue, one being the 80-hour power-reserve-equipped Certina DS-1.

The DS-1 is available in a number of different colorways, in all-steel or two-tone cases, as well as silver, black, gray, and blue-accented dials. All of them share the same movement: the 3-day+ Powermatic 80. The automatic mechanism is derived from a base ETA 2824-2, which by slowing down its frequency to 21,600 vph from the standard 28,800 provides the movement an almost doubled reserve, at 80 hours.

The brand currently prices the watch at about $650; depending on the dial color it can frequently be found via an authorized dealer for a couple hundred less. Certina.


Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium ($775+)

Certina’s Swatch Group sister brand, Tissot, uses its own application of the Powermatic 80 movement in the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium, the first in Tissot’s extensive collection to use that movement.

It was actually through the initial news of this Tissot watch that we learned the Powermatic 80 caliber not only has a reduced frequency, but also makes use of various silicon parts, including for its spring barrel which, according to the brand, results in more efficient operation without a major sacrifice to the ultimate timekeeping ability of the watch.

Like the DS-1, the Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium is available in an array of dial colors and case materials, though it is the steel, blue-dial model and two-tone crème-dial edition that seem to most frequently catch the eyes of collectors. Pricing begins at $775 for steel models on leather straps, and rises up to $1,495 for two-tone examples on metal bracelets.

You can find this watch and a number of other more recent releases containing the Powermatic 80 in Tissot’s online store here. Tissot.


Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve Auto ($1,245+)

The final Swatch Group watch we have on our list is the Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve Auto, which like the previous two watches also features a 3-day+ power reserve (aka 80 hours), though in this instance accomplished via the Hamilton Caliber H-13.

Like the previous two models, the Jazzmaster is a relatively classical-looking timepiece, though with some additional features accounting for its higher price tag. Among these, we find a number of new dial colors including sunray silver, black, crème, and blue, all with a power-reserve indicator on the dial in addition to the date window.

While not confirmed by information from the brands, it has been speculated the H-13 automatic movement inside the Jazzmaster is a Hamilton-modified Powermatic 80 (itself, as mentioned, derived from the ETA 2824-2), especially because Hamilton also falls under the Swatch Group umbrella. Nonetheless, with classic looks, an 80-hour reserve, and a price point just topping $1,000, the Hamilton watch can surely draw attention to itself in its own right.

The Jazzmaster Power Reserve Auto is offered directly through the Hamilton website here, with prices starting at $1,245 for a steel model on a leather strap, and only going up slightly to $1,495 when the watch is placed on a five-link metal bracelet instead. Hamilton.


Christopher Ward C65 Trident Diver SH21 Limited Edition ($2,170)

British watchmaker Christopher Ward might not be the brand you think of first when it comes to timepieces with great power reserves, but the brand’s in-house Caliber SH21 movement with its 120-hour power reserve and COSC-specification timekeeping ability is nothing to scoff at.

The caliber comes standard in a handful of Christopher Ward’s watches since its initial release in 2014, including the racing-inspired C1 Morgan 3 Wheeler Chronometer ($2,050) and C1 Morgan Aero 8 Chronometer ($2,685), as well as the Bauhaus-style C1 Grand Malvern Small Seconds ($1,540).

Our choice for this list is the C65 Trident Diver SH21 Limited Edition, which is a luxurious take on the brand’s signature C65 Trident Diver design, and one highly limited to only 150 pieces. Equipped with a five-day power reserve, chronometer certification, 150-meter water resistance, and a solid vintage-inspired design, all in a 41-mm steel case and a blue dial — there is a lot to like about the model.

While currently stock is very limited as a result of its limited production run, some models are still available directly through CW, here, priced at $2,170. Christopher Ward.


Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic ($2,990+)

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic was much discussed upon its release, and for good reason. With a COSC chronometer certification, a five-day power reserve, magnetic protection, extended service intervals, and a very classical design, the watch has had a lot to offer since its initial introduction in 2018 and subsequent expansion in 2019.

Pricing for the standard Clifton Baumatic — that is, a time-and-date model — begins at $2,990 for either a dégradé blue, dégradé grey, or silver dial on a leather strap, and climbing slightly to $3,190 if you prefer it on a five-link metal bracelet. Depending on the case material and additional complications, prices on Baumatic models range up to $12,200. Baume & Mercier offers a number of models for purchase now directly though its online store, which you can find here.

Want to learn more about the Clifton Baumatic? We had one in for a watch test last spring; you can read the results here. Baume & Mercier.


Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 ($3,500)

If the previous models each generated discussion upon their releases, then Oris’ unveiling of its Calibre 400 movement — and shortly thereafter the new Aquis Date models that contained it — sparked serious conversation throughout the watch community.

Not only was Calibre 400 the first self-winding in-house movement produced by Oris, but the movement, and thus the new watch that contains it, come equipped with a five-day power reserve, serious antimagnetic properties, a 10-year warranty, and an astonishing 10-year service suggestion. All of this came together with the already widely praised design of the Aquis Date and its 300-meter water resistance, culminating in a high-value proposition that is likely to find its way into the collections of collectors young and old.

The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 costs $3,300 for the 43.5-mm version on a rubber strap and $3,500 on a metal bracelet, though it is highly anticipated other sizes and models containing the movement will become available in 2021. The watch is available both directly through Oris, here, and via authorized dealers globally. Oris.


What do you think of our list, and would you want to add any of these watches to your collection? Are there any watches we’re missing that fit this category? Let us know in the comments below!

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Green Rambles: How Straps Elevate Your Wrist Game https://www.watchtime.com/featured/green-rambles-how-straps-elevate-your-wrist-game/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/green-rambles-how-straps-elevate-your-wrist-game/#respond Sun, 30 Jun 2024 14:35:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=139426 This article is from the WatchTime Archives and was originally published in June 2022.

I once had a charming Seiko 5 with a jade green dial that I bought for about $50. I was less excited about the bracelet, but in my drawer, I still had a light brown alligator leather strap from a watch I recently sold that happened to fit. It turned out to be a match made in heaven as I don’t think that I have ever gotten more compliments on a watch as that one. Some might consider it ridiculous to fit a $50 watch with a strap costing seven times as much, but it taught me the valuable lesson that a strap can make or break a watch.

Looks are only part of the equation, as wearing comfort is another. When a strap doesn’t sit comfortably around your wrist, it reflects on the watch as a whole. What often happens is that you simply wear it less, even when the watch itself is great. A mere strap change can make a difference. While I am an avid advocate of buying quality, getting the right strap doesn’t always have to cost an arm and a leg. In particular, when looking for a rubber or NATO strap, many cost-effective examples can be found that won’t disappoint.

If you want to ensure that you get it right, a custom-made strap might be the way to go. While this sound expensive, in my experience, the cost is not much higher than if you would buy a strap from one of the well-known Swiss brands, with the advantage that now, you are in the driver’s seat. You are in command of the type of leather, the color of stitching, and the thickness and material used for the lining. It often results in a strap that matches your taste and usually also elevates the way the watch looks. This will increase the wearing comfort as well as the pleasure you get from your watch.

How did you elevate your wrist game by changing the strap? Tell us in the comments

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Green Rambles: If You Don’t Have to Look Twice, You Bought the Wrong Watch https://www.watchtime.com/featured/green-rambles-if-you-dont-have-to-look-twice-you-bought-the-wrong-watch/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/green-rambles-if-you-dont-have-to-look-twice-you-bought-the-wrong-watch/#respond Fri, 28 Jun 2024 14:44:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=139232 This article is from the WatchTime Archives and was originally published 2022.

Among car enthusiasts, a familiar saying is that if you don’t look back at your car after you parked it, you bought the wrong one. Although slightly different, I feel that the same thing goes for watches. Here, I would say that if you have to look twice to tell the time, you bought the right one. It is a common joke for my girlfriend to ask me the time when she sees me checking my watch. More often than not, I have to look again, as I was admiring everything except the exact position of the hands.

Realizing that the right watches leave you enamored can also lead to some confronting conclusions. Many years ago, I bought an Omega Speedmaster Professional. An impressive watch by all means, and I was very excited to get it. Unfortunately, when on the wrist, there was no magic. When I checked to see the time, that was exactly what I did and nothing more. This doesn’t say anything about the Speedmaster, but more about me, and that this Omega simply wasn’t my watch. Through this experience, I learned that I am more of a Seamaster and Constellation kind of guy, and there is nothing wrong with that.

Antonio Jaramillo watch collection

I even made a deal with myself that whenever I don’t have the look twice experience with a watch in my collection, it has to go. This is quite a thing, as some watches I have admired for years, are considered icons or took a long time to get, only get to enjoy a short stay with me. Despite all this, and while they are great watches in their own right, when they are not great watches on my wrist, it was simply not meant to be. The upside is that you get a collection that makes you smile and where the watches also get worn. The downside is that you might have to look twice at them to know the time.

Which watch makes you have to look twice? Tell us in the comments!

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Full of Fan Favorite Details, Another Look at the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT in 39mm Case (with Hands-on Photos) https://www.watchtime.com/featured/delivering-on-fan-favorite-details-tudor-introduces-black-bay-58-gmt-in-39mm-case/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/delivering-on-fan-favorite-details-tudor-introduces-black-bay-58-gmt-in-39mm-case/#respond Fri, 31 May 2024 11:33:15 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=158611 First released by Tudor at Watches & Wonders 2024 is the Black Bay 58 GMT. The new watch is done in a 39mm case and takes cues from the golden age of air travel, being inspired by the classic Tudor ref. 7924 “Big Crown.” Joining the current Black Bay lineup, the novel Black Bay 58 GMT is all about old-school details paired with a case size beloved by enthusiasts and casual fans, alike. It’s really hard to find much fault with this new iteration as it nails just about every detail without being too saccharine or self-reverent in its nostalgic design.

tudor black bay 58 gmt
tudor black bay 58 gmt

Not just a shrunken down version of the 41mm Black Bay GMT, this new model has reworked proportions and a slimmer case. The 39mm case measures 12.8mm thick with a 47.8mm lug-to-lug height (200 m of water resistance) with a screw down crown. While there is only the one color way at the time of release, there are options for a bracelet or strap. The three-link “rivet-style” bracelet is inspired by the bracelets of the 1950s and 1960s and has a gentle taper from the clasp up to the end-link. There is also a black rubber strap option which is cut-to-size. Both the bracelet and strap come with Tudor’s T-fit clasp which allows up to 8mm of adjustment without the use of any tools. 

tudor black bay 58 gmt

Vintage touches throughout the watch can be seen in the burgundy and black bidirectional bezel with its gilt finish on the 24-hour scale, as well as through the hour markers and “snowflake” style hands. Inside is the COSC-certified GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U which boasts a silicon hairspring and 65-hour power reserve.

tudor black bay 58 gmt

It’s not a risky bet to assume that the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT is going to be a huge hit, as so many people have been waiting for a GMT in this size with the same tough dive specs that befit anything named a Black Bay. Pricing for this watch is marked at 4,100 CHF on the rubber strap and 4,300 CHF on the steel bracelet, or about $4,500 and $4,750 USD, respectively. 

To learn more, visit Tudor, here

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Another Look at the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph in White Gold with Denim Strap (With Live Images) https://www.watchtime.com/featured/watches-and-wonders-2024-patek-philippe-nautilus-flyback-chronograph-in-white-gold-with-denim-strap/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/watches-and-wonders-2024-patek-philippe-nautilus-flyback-chronograph-in-white-gold-with-denim-strap/#respond Wed, 29 May 2024 11:35:13 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=158629 First launched at Watches & Wonders 2024 is the one of the more more experimental new timepieces from the famed watchmaker in the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph ref. 5980/60G-001. The watch is a fresh face for the timepiece which takes the place of the now discontinued versions that came in red gold and two-tone models and were around for almost fourteen years.

Patek Philippe Nautilus flyback chronograph 5980

The new Nautilus Flyback Chronograph takes a much more contemporary and casual approach with a white gold case and blue-gray opaline dial that is almost like a powdery take on the sunburst blue of the 5811. The classic baton hands are nice and legible against the dial, as well. Interestingly, Patek is debuting this new 5980 on a calfskin strap with an embossed denim motif; it actually looks quite nice as I’ve always found the nautilus case to be enhanced on a strap. The denim motif works excellently with the dial color, as well.

Patek Philippe Nautilus flyback chronograph 5980

The basics are the same here with a 40.5mm case that is 12.2mm thick (30 m of water resistance). From the case back you can see the Caliber CH 28‑520 C/522 movement which operates at 4 Hz and has a power reserve of between 45-55 hours. As for functionality, there is obviously a flyback chronograph with a 60-minute and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock.

As of now, this is the only Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph in production and is priced at 67,000 CHF, or about $73,600 USD at the time of writing.

To learn more, visit Patek Philippe, here

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