Not just a shrunken down version of the 41mm Black Bay GMT, this new model has reworked proportions and a slimmer case. The 39mm case measures 12.8mm thick with a 47.8mm lug-to-lug height (200 m of water resistance) with a screw down crown. While there is only the one color way at the time of release, there are options for a bracelet or strap. The three-link “rivet-style” bracelet is inspired by the bracelets of the 1950s and 1960s and has a gentle taper from the clasp up to the end-link. There is also a black rubber strap option which is cut-to-size. Both the bracelet and strap come with Tudor’s T-fit clasp which allows up to 8mm of adjustment without the use of any tools. 

Vintage touches throughout the watch can be seen in the burgundy and black bidirectional bezel with its gilt finish on the 24-hour scale, as well as through the hour markers and “snowflake” style hands. Inside is the COSC-certified GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U which boasts a silicon hairspring and 65-hour power reserve.

It’s not a risky bet to assume that the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT is going to be a huge hit, as so many people have been waiting for a GMT in this size with the same tough dive specs that befit anything named a Black Bay. Pricing for this watch is marked at 4,100 CHF on the rubber strap and 4,300 CHF on the steel bracelet, or about $4,500 and $4,750 USD, respectively. 

To learn more, visit Tudor, here. 

The new Nautilus Flyback Chronograph takes a much more contemporary and casual approach with a white gold case and blue-gray opaline dial that is almost like a powdery take on the sunburst blue of the 5811. The classic baton hands are nice and legible against the dial, as well. Interestingly, Patek is debuting this new 5980 on a calfskin strap with an embossed denim motif; it actually looks quite nice as I’ve always found the nautilus case to be enhanced on a strap. The denim motif works excellently with the dial color, as well.

The basics are the same here with a 40.5mm case that is 12.2mm thick (30 m of water resistance). From the case back you can see the Caliber CH 28‑520 C/522 movement which operates at 4 Hz and has a power reserve of between 45-55 hours. As for functionality, there is obviously a flyback chronograph with a 60-minute and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock.

As of now, this is the only Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph in production and is priced at 67,000 CHF, or about $73,600 USD at the time of writing.

To learn more, visit Patek Philippe, here. 

If the launch of the latest GMT-Master II by Rolex— with its quiet new colorway and small green details— was a demonstration of the brand’s subtlety, then the release of the Deepsea Dweller in yellow gold is an act of ostentatious balance.

Presented at Watches & Wonders 2024 as the reference M136668LB, the new “professional” dive watch features an old fan favorite yellow gold and royal blue colorway that was once seen in the Submariner line. The watch eschews the traditional steel construction of the series, instead opting for the loudness of combined precious metal and azure hues to make itself known.

On the wrist, the watch is— get ready for it— heavy. Like all if not all Rolex watches, the timepiece features a monobloc middle case, which together with its bezel and Oyster-style bracelet essentially ensures the 44mm behemoth as a solid block of 18k yellow gold in wear. The case does have some non-gold details, notably making use of a titanium construction for its caseback and helium escape valve, as well as a Cerachrom insert in blue ceramic for its 60-minute scale on the bezel, which in tandem with Rolex’s Ringlock System ensure the watch can theoretically survive to 3,900m.

On the lacquer dial, you’ll find a familiar Rolex diver configuration, in this variant executed with more blue and gold details. Printed scripts of the watch’s various technical abilities and names flank the applied indices, with these alongside the signature handset filled with the brand’s Chromalight luminescent material for legibility in all lighting conditions. A cyclops-less date window is placed at the 3 o’clock position, should you dare to use the model as a daily-wearer.

Inside, the Rolex caliber 3235 powers the timepiece, with the automatic mechanism capable of a 70-hour power reserve and accurate to +/-2 seconds per day. This movement has become the standard bearer for Rolex time-and-date models in recent years, being featured in current  iterations of the Yacht-Master and Submariner Date, among others.

The new Rolex Deepsea Dweller ref. M136668LB is priced at 49,900 CHF, or about $55,300 USD, with it to be available at authorized Rolex boutiques globally.

To learn more, visit Rolex, here.

At first glance, the Rewind appeared to be another lovely Santos Dumont, but a few seconds of studying the gorgeous carnelian dial brought the reversed Roman numeral hour markers into focus. There are a few examples of watches that tell time counterclockwise, the first being the Beuchat “Envers” from 1987, which used a mechanical Ebauches movement and went so far as to not have hour numerals on the dial. There is also the Raketa Russian Code 0216 watch from 2021, which tells the time counterclockwise because of the fact that the planets in our solar system revolve around the sun in this direction. So, while Cartier isn’t the first here, it is certainly the most high profile watchmaker to do a counterclockwise dial. 

Done in the large case size, it measures 31.5mm wide and 7.3mm thick with a lug-to-lug height of 43.5mm (30 m of water resistance). The size may sound small on paper but the square shape and broad lugs make for a hefty wrist presence that is about as substantial as you’d want from a dress watch. 

The Rewind is characterized by the use of red throughout the dial, case, and strap. The use of this color isn’t entirely without meaning as Cartier reserves the ruby red cabochon crown for watches that are done in platinum. However, the most alluring aspect of the Rewind has to be that stunning carnelian red dial. A semiprecious stone, carnelian can range in color from orange to reds so deep they almost appear black. The stones sourced by Cartier for this watch have an ethereal and smoky quality to them that go from lighter to darker shades of red, with the specific look at any moment depending on the angle and light. 

The “apple-shaped” hands are done in rhodium-finished steel and are reminiscent of the original Cartier Santos-Dumont from 1904, and serve to ground this piece’s place in one of the oldest watchmaking collections out there. Taking a look at the case back which has Alberto Santos-Dumont’s signature engraved and filled with red with a mirror view of the signature right below it. The desire to have the Rewind associated with the aviator after whom the collection is named is further underscored in the brand’s own words of “Original and inventive, this limited edition follows in the magical and unprecedented footsteps of the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, for whom anything is possible.”

As for the movement, it’s a simple adjustment to reverse the movement and apply the Roman numerals counterclockwise which is admittedly made easier to execute due to the lack of a seconds hand on the Santos-Dumont. The manual-wind 230 MC is the name given to this inverted 430 MC calibre which still has the operating frequency of 3 Hz and a lackluster 38-hour power reserve.

The Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind is both fantastically creative and surprisingly under-the-radar, making for one of the most delightful releases from Watches & Wonders 2024. It is limited to just 200 pieces with a price of $38,400.

To learn more, visit Cartier, here. 

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding

Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony is not just a prime example of Geneva’s fine watchmaking, but for many enthusiasts, it epitomizes the round wristwatch in perfect simplicity. The Patrimony Manual-Winding delights with a minimalist dial and harmonious proportions, defining a style that seamlessly blends an unmistakable personality with understated elegance.

At first glance, the Patrimony Manual-Winding timepiece appears unchanged, maintaining its design inspired by the 1950s, a hallmark since its 2004 introduction. However, the Patrimony has evolved, particularly in the size of the two new manual-winding models. While the previous 40mm size was appreciated, the case, 7.7mm thick and crafted from pink or white gold, now features a classic 39mm diameter.

This change is mirrored on the collection’s signature convex dial, its sunburst-finished surface now presented with a gorgeous new “old-silver” hue. This shade adds a hint of retro styling, contrasting beautifully with the pink gold of the Patrimony collection’s characteristic slim hands, hour-markers, and circular ‘pearl’ minutes track, composed of 48 polished 18K gold pearls.

Surprisingly, the case back of the Patrimony Manual-Winding is closed, allowing space for personal signatures. Behind it ticks the hand-wound manufacture caliber VC 1440 with 42 hours of power reserve. With 116 components, its mechanical microcosm is just 2.6mm thick.

Pricing is marked at $25,200 excluding taxes for both variants.

To learn more, visit Vacheron Constantin, here.

Cartier Collection Privé Tortue

The focus of this year’s Privé Collection is the Tortue, first introduced in 1912. Like all models from the Maison, it masterfully plays with shapes, combining curves with strict lines. In the reissue, Cartier remained faithful to the original design, only elongating the lugs and refining the profile. This two-hand timepiece in yellow gold, limited to 200 pieces, is particularly authentic. Its tonneau-shaped case measures 41.4mm x 32.9mm in diameter and has a slim height of 7.2mm. The grained dial features Roman numerals and a railway minute track, while apple-shaped hour and minute hands gracefully sweep around it. Behind the scenes, the hand-wound manufacture caliber 430 MC ensures precision.

Pricing is marked at $31,000.

To learn more, visit Cartier, here.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde

At this year’s Watches and Wonders, Parmigiani Fleurier presented a new generation of the Toric, the very first wristwatch Michel Parmigiani created in 1996 when he started his own brand. This new iteration pushes the boundaries of purist elegance and was one of the most talked-about timepieces of the show.

According to Guido Terreni, Parmigiani Fleurier’s CEO, the new Toric “redefines the essence of the men’s dress watch.” It is presented in slim platinum 950 and pink gold cases, featuring 18-carat gold movements, which is quite stunning. The calibers are manually wound, showcasing top-notch finishing quality and intricate details, befitting a dress watch. The hand-stitched alligator leather straps with a nubuck finish and a traditional “punto a mano” stitch, a specialty of Neapolitan tailors, add to its elegance.

The Toric Petite Seconde has a diameter of 40.6mm and a slender height of 8.8mm. It is water-resistant to 50 meters, with a polished case featuring a knurled bezel shared with Parmigiani’s Tonda PF collection. The watch is offered in platinum with an almond-green dial and in pink gold with a sandy-gold dial. Both dials are slightly beveled and adorned with a gorgeous graining that serves as a magnificent backdrop for the short hour markers and hands that match the case material.

The Toric Petite Seconde in pink gold retails for CHF 49,500, while the platinum version has a sticker price of CHF 56,500.

To learn more, visit Parmigiani Fleurier, here.

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Re-creation of the “First”

Launched in 1960, the very first Grand Seiko was the result of a project to create a timepiece that would be low-maintenance, easy to wear, highly legible, and simply beautiful. This year, the Japanese luxury brand introduces a new reinterpretation of this timeless design, the ref. SBGW314, crafted in pink gold and powered by an in-house automatic caliber. Equipped with an exhibition caseback, the case measures 38.0mm wide and is 10.9mm thick.

It frames a gorgeous dial inspired by “Hoshizukiyo,” which translates to starry night. Many details pay homage to the “First,” such as the multifaceted markers and dauphine hands, the font used for the Grand Seiko logo, the “Diashock 24 jewels” inscription, and the 8-pointed star at 6 o’clock, a prerogative of Grand Seiko’s “special dials,” whose markers are made of solid gold. As befits a refined dress watch, the SBGW314 is driven by a precise hand-wound movement. The caliber 9S64 beats with 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 72-hour power reserve.

Limited to 50 pieces and available exclusively at Grand Seiko boutiques from June 2024, the Elegance Collection Re-creation of the “First” is mounted on a dark blue crocodile leather strap and comes with an additional brown strap. The price is marked at $26,500.

To learn more, visit Grand Seiko, here.

Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Date

All of the luxury newcomers mentioned above symbolize style and mechanical refinement at the highest level. However, they are at a price point that is not for everyone’s wallet. The new Manufacture Classic Date from Frederique Constant is in a more accessible price segment and still ticks the boxes for a very decent dress watch with a genuine caliber. It has a diameter of 40mm and a height of 11.7mm.

The stainless-steel timepiece with a prominent pointer date indication at 6 o’clock is available in three captivating sunburst dial colors: two lighter shades of salmon and silver, along with a darker black option. All three dials feature applied silver-colored slim diamond-cut indexes, complemented by a minute rail track encircling the sunburst pattern. The hand-polished hands elegantly sweep across the dial, enhancing readability and style.

Powering the Manufacture Classic Date is the new in-house caliber, FC-706, which is based on the FC-710 movement. This self-winding caliber boasts an impressive 72-hour power reserve, ensuring reliable timekeeping for days on end. Through the transparent caseback, you can admire the refined perlage and fan-shaped Côtes de Genève decorations, showcasing a high level of craftsmanship.

The Manufacture Classic Date will be available from May 2024 and retail for $3,295.

To learn more, visit Frederique Constant, here.