LVMH Watch Week 2024 – WatchTime – USA's No.1 Watch Magazine https://www.watchtime.com Wristwatch reviews, watch news, watch database. Mon, 29 Jan 2024 17:18:58 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.watchtime.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/WatchTime_Icon-205x205.jpg LVMH Watch Week 2024 – WatchTime – USA's No.1 Watch Magazine https://www.watchtime.com 32 32 LVMH Watch Week 2024: Hublot Big Bang Unico Green Saxem https://www.watchtime.com/featured/lvmh-watch-week-2024-hublot-big-bang-unico-green-saxem/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/lvmh-watch-week-2024-hublot-big-bang-unico-green-saxem/#respond Tue, 30 Jan 2024 13:02:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=156633 Hublot, an undisputed master of case materials, is presenting a new model made from saxem during the LVMH Watch Week 2024, this time with a green color way. Saxem, short for “Sapphire Aluminium oXide and rare Earth Mineral”, is an alloy of aluminium oxide, the basic component of sapphire, with rare earth elements like thulium and holmium as well as chromium. Highly resistant, this composite is endowed with a brilliance that is even greater than that of sapphire and its more uniform and seamless, according to Hublot. So far, the brand has used it for two previous timepieces, the Spirit of Big Bang Saxem and the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem.

Limited to 100 pieces, the new Big Bang Unico Green Saxem comes in a 42mm case that is water-resistant to 50 meters and equipped with the brand’s One Click strap system. It is a beautiful interpretation of Hublot’s signature manufacture chronograph that is distinguished by its open-worked dial that brings to life the sophisticated mechanics including the date disc. Framed by the bezel with the six signature H-screws, it displays a two-counter layout, with the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the minute counter at 3 o’clock. In line with the color theme, the numerals and hands are likewise green.

Powering the watch is the UNICO 2 caliber HUB1280, the second generation of Hublot’s genuine column-wheel chronograph movement with a flyback function, which is now equipped with a high-performance tungsten oscillating weight. This self-winding high-end caliber boasts a power reserve of 72 hours.

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Green Saxem is attached to a rubber strap and has a price tag of $116,000.

To learn more, visit Hublot, here.

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Hands-On: Bulgari Bulgari Receives 38mm Treatment, Mechanical Movement https://www.watchtime.com/featured/bulgari-bulgari-receives-38mm-treatment-mechanical-movement/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/bulgari-bulgari-receives-38mm-treatment-mechanical-movement/#respond Mon, 29 Jan 2024 13:15:26 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=156688 Dating back to 1975, the Bulgari Bulgari is an instantly recognizable watch that turns fifty years old next year. One can assume the brand will do something extra special to mark that occasion (my fingers crossed for a reissue of the very first model which was a digital Bulgari Roma that was originally created as a gift for the brand’s 100 best clients). Future speculation aside, LVMH Watch Week 2024 indeed saw the release of what may be the finest modern Bulgari Bulgari watch. Of course, this was achieved by going back to the basics.

bulgari bulgari 38mm bulgari bulgari 38mm

Just like the first production Bulgari Bulgari watch from 1977, this new iteration has that iconic coin-inspired bezel done in gold and matched with a deep black dial. Unlike the 33mm original, the new Bulgari Bulgari Ref. 103967 comes in a wonderfully contemporary 38mm wide case that measures 8.5mm thick (50m of water resistance). It is also outfitted with a mechanical movement, using the tried-and-true Caliber BVL191 ‘solotempo’ which operates at 4Hz with a 42-hour power reserve. 

bulgari bulgari 38mm

This is a watch that is all about design and the matte black dial with a matte Zapon lacquer textured finish makes for a lust-worthy presentation. For those who prefer a lighter motif, there is the Bulgari Bulgari Ref.103968  which has the same 38mm case and movement but in rose gold with a silver matte opaline dial. Each of these watches is priced at $13,000.

To learn more, visit Bulgari, here.

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Hands-On Debut: Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium https://www.watchtime.com/featured/mechanical-carte-blanche-the-hublot-mp-10-tourbillon-weight-energy-system-titanium/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/mechanical-carte-blanche-the-hublot-mp-10-tourbillon-weight-energy-system-titanium/#respond Mon, 29 Jan 2024 13:10:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=156684 Just released by Hublot at LVMH Watch Week is the wild new MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium. The new MP-10 transforms and reimagines watchmaking architecture in a novel vertical setup that integrates movement and dial. In the words of Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, “I gave our designers and watchmakers carte blanche, and this is the fruit of their labours.”

Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium

Telling the time on the MP-10 is actually quite simple via a stack of four rotating displays. The hour and minute displays are denoted with text as well as red pointers and it is quite easy to read the time as 10:45 in the image shown above. Below these (seen below) is the rotating power reserve display that goes from green to red. Again, simple enough. Finally, we reach the seconds display which is directly on the tourbillon cage which is done in monobloc aluminum and is inclined at an angle of 35°. This highly unusual configuration is patent pending and took five years of R&D to create. 

Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium

And then there is the automatic winding system. Rather than the typical rotor mechanism, the MP-10 has two vertical weights done in white gold on either side of the case. These weights are set on a vertical axis which allows them to move freely, thus powering the movement. Of course these weights can’t be any clanking up and down on their axis so Hublot installed a system of shock absorbers. This new HUB9013 manufacture movement is ingeniously creative and joyfully excessive (which is the entire point, right?). Operating at 3 Hz with a 48-hour power reserve, it can also be manually wound via the crown at 12 o’clock. Note that this crown is not used to set the time, which is done via a second crown on the case back. 

Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium
Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium

Done in a shiny microblasted titanium case, the MP-10 measures 41.5mm wide, 54.1mm in height, and 22.4mm thick (30m of water resistance). The crystal is Hublot’s most complex to date as it covers three inclined planes. This distinction also applies to the integrated rubber strap which is unsurprisingly their most elaborate to date given the construction of the case. 

Comprised of 592 parts, the Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium is a testament to creative watchmaking and horological innovation. As such, it is limited to 50 pieces with a price of $264,000.

To learn more, visit Hublot, here

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Hands-On Debut: Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar https://www.watchtime.com/featured/hands-on-debut-zenith-chronomaster-original-triple-calendar/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/hands-on-debut-zenith-chronomaster-original-triple-calendar/#respond Mon, 29 Jan 2024 13:05:44 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=156680 It has been just about a decade since Zenith released their previous El Primero Triple Calendar Chronograph Caliber 410, but the watchmaker may have outdone itself with this new iteration debuted at LVMH Watch Week. The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar comes in an excellently proportioned 38mm wide case (with 50m of water resistance) that is intentionally done using the exact same blueprints of the classic A386 from 1969. That level of attention to detail is matched by the dial which is surprisingly clean and easy to read considering the substantial amount of information being conveyed.

zenith chronomaster original triple calendar
zenith chronomaster original triple calendar

The complete calendar has day, month, and date, as well as a lovely moonphase indicator on a highly legible contrasting dial that comes in either silver and black (seen here), slate-grey opaline and silver, or a boutique-only olive green and silver. All versions have gold plated hands and hour indices which nicely match the moon phase disc, creating a cohesive design.

zenith chronomaster original triple calendar

The new Triple Calendar debuts a variant of the El Primero 3600 Calibre measuring 1/10th second that was introduced in 2021. This new El Primero 3610 Calibre operates at 5 Hz with a 60-hour power reserve and is finished with a Zenith star-shaped rotor with striking blue column wheel.  

zenith chronomaster original triple calendar

The design team at Zenith got just about every detail of this watch right and it would not be surprising to see one of these on the wrists of collectors who typically eschew calendar watches. The three aforementioned versions of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar are all available on either a matching strap with a price of $13,400 or a steel bracelet for $13,900. 

To learn more, visit Zenith, here

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Hands-On Debut: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional Solargraph in 34mm Case https://www.watchtime.com/featured/hands-on-debut-tag-heuer-aquaracer-professional-solargraph-in-34mm-case/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/hands-on-debut-tag-heuer-aquaracer-professional-solargraph-in-34mm-case/#respond Mon, 29 Jan 2024 13:00:42 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=156676 TAG Heuer gave the people what they want (more thoughtful small watches) this LVMH Watch Week with the release of a new Aquaracer Professional Solargraph watch in 34mm steel cases. Adding to the existing collection of 40mm pieces, these smaller solar powered Aquaracers have the same traits as their larger siblings with water resistance of 200 m, a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown, lume, and double safety clasp. 

tag heuer aqua racer professional 200 solargraph
tag heuer aquaracer professional 200 solargraph blue
tag heuer aqua racer professional 200 solargraph 34mm on wrist

What would previously have been singled out as a “ladies watch” is truly unisex as you can see in the photo of the watch on my wrist. In fact the 34mm wide, 9.5mm thick case has a fairly universal “everyday” lug-to-lug measurement of 40.6mm. While the deep blue and polar blue dials will likely appeal to men more than the mother of pearl dials, there is something to be said for the technical achievement of having an MOP dial on a solar powered watch. Solargraph tech requires semi-transparent dials to work and TAG had to do some real tweaking in order to get these done. 

tag heuer aquaracer professional 200 solargraph mother of pearl tag heuer aquaracer professional 200 solargraph

Done in partnership with La Joux-Perret, the Calibre TH50-01 only needs two minutes of exposure to sunlight to power the watch for a full day while 40-hours of sunlight exposure will charge it for 10 months.

tag heuer aquaracer professional 200 solargraph diamond

This new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph collection in 34mm cases is priced at $2,150 for the deep blue and polar blue dials while the mother of pearl is a bit more at $2,350 and $2,950 for MOP with diamond hour markers. These are available immediately while a MOP with diamond hour markers and bezel priced at $5,000 will arrive later this summer.

To learn more, visit TAG Heuer, here

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