Hvilina’s latest creation is the Nomro Hybrid, a collection of six watches that are all powered by Seiko Epson caliber PX85A. This is an interesting movement as it is a so-called hybrid or kinetic, meaning that the motion of an oscillating weight is converted into electricity, which is used to power the quartz movement. Such a movement combined the precision and dependability of a battery-powered quartz movement with the heart and soul of a mechanical one. Hvilina most certainly doesn’t hide such an interesting movement behind a closed caseback but shows it in all its glory behind a colored yet transparent insert in the caseback.

According to Hvilina, the inspiration for this collection came from the world of cyberpunk, which represents nighttime skyscrapers and artificial neon lights. This translates to some more expressive pieces, like the Synthwave, which combines rather bold colors, and the more traditional Post Industrial, which mixes silver and black on the dial. The Seiko Epson Hybrid movement features not only a date function but also a GMT. Hvilina took advantage of that by creating a subtle yet expressive GMT hand that gives an extra dash of color to the dial. The date wheel is also not the standard type but suits the theme Hvilina set for this collection.

The case with an integrated bracelet resonates with current trends. It is well constructed, and while it lacks the option for micro-adjustment, it does feature links that are small enough to make the bracelet fit comfortably. Hvilina gave each of the six models a name of its own, of which two have a pink gold IP coating, and limited them to 350 pieces per model. The Nombro Hybrid is priced at €399,-, but now open to pre-order at €299,- with delivery in December.

For more info, visit Hvilina, here.

Seiko celebrated its 140th anniversary in 2021 with a number of special models. In addition to a modern reinterpretation of the Prospex Diver’s watch from 1970 created for the adventurer Naomi Uemura, there was also an unlimited edition of the world-famous dive watch, which we put to our test.

In contrast to the limited edition, the unlimited version of this Seiko Prospex model, our test watch, has a roughened matte dial in charcoal gray, much like the original from 1970. By placing the date between 4 and 5 o’clock, 12 bold hour markers can be applied, with a double-bar marker at 12 o’clock, for perfect orientation.

The hour and minute hands, the tip of the second hand, and the indexes are all generously coated with Lumibrite, Seiko’s own luminous material, to ensure optimal nighttime legibility. The orientation point on the dive bezel seems to take a conscious backseat. The unidirectional bezel, which is rendered in the same gray color as the dial, clicks in half-minute increments and is engraved to the exact minute. It encircles a domed crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside, which contributes to the excellent overall legibility and scratch resistance.

The hard coating on the alternating polished and brushed surfaces of the asymmetrical case, which is widely used on Seiko dive watches, protects against scratches. The recognizable crown screws down inside a nicely shaped, ergonomic crown guard at 4 o’clock. But unscrewing the crown takes a good deal of strength and pulling it to the different setting positions requires a strong fingernail; returning the crown to its screwed-down position also requires some effort. Yet this operation provides a feeling of solid security and water resistance, which the Prospex provides to a depth of 20 bar. The solid threaded caseback adds to this secure feeling. It is engraved with the image of a giant wave — a symbol of the dive watch profession.

The Prospex is also known for its movement, a specially designed caliber for use in professional dive watches. The automatic 8L35 movement is housed beneath the solid caseback. It is derived from the Grand Seiko Caliber 9S55, introduced in 1998 (after a 20-year pause) as the first mechanical watch movement from Grand Seiko. Caliber 8L35 appeared about two years later — specially modified for dive watches by watchmakers in the Shizukuishi Watch Studio Morioka in northern Japan and, like the Grand Seiko movement, assembled and adjusted by hand.

The 8L35 is comprised of 192 components and ticks at a rate of 4 Hz with a power reserve of more than 50 hours. Broadly speaking, this is a less refined version of the Grand Seiko 9S55 caliber with a larger balance wheel to manage the torque needed for advancing the hefty dive watch hands. And, with regard to the rate requirements, we see that the 8L35 is not subject to the same standards as the Grand Seiko caliber. For the accuracy of the 8L35 watch movement, the manufacturer states that the deviation range is +/-15 seconds per day. The movement in our test watch remained within these specifications with deviations between 6 and 7 seconds per day.

The Prospex is worn on a five-row, integrated steel bracelet, with a clasp equipped with a safety bar and a sturdy dive extension. It’s easy to see why this watch has been a professional underwater companion for more than half a century.

The Seiko Prospex Modern Interpretation of 1970 Diver’s Watch retails for $2,900.

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The latest example – and a very impressive one – is the Seiko 5 Sports Heritage Design Re-creation Limited Edition, available in two references, the SRPL03 and SRPL05. Breathing new life into popular designs from the late ’60s and early ’70s, they feature a sporty elongated cushion-shaped steel case, a date-and-weekday display through a prominent window, and the crown at the 4 o’clock position. The luminescent dial, framed by a unidirectional bezel and available in blue and silver color ways, bears the original Seiko 5 logo.

Incidentally, since the collection’s debut in 1968, the number 5 has referred to the five attributes of the original: automatic movement, day-and-date display, crown at 4 o’clock, pressure-resistant case, and an overall robust design.

These attributes also apply to the SRPL03 and SRPL05. The 38.5mm wide and 12.5mm thick steel case is water-resistant to 100 meters and houses the automatic caliber 4R36 with 41 hours of power reserve. The bracelet is similar to the original, but was improved for wearability. A retro-style leather strap is also included.

Limited to 9,999 pieces each, the Seiko 5 Sports Heritage Design Re-creation Limited Editions will be available from July 2024 with a sticker price of $450.

To learn more, visit Seiko, here.

I once had a charming Seiko 5 with a jade green dial that I bought for about $50. I was less excited about the bracelet, but in my drawer, I still had a light brown alligator leather strap from a watch I recently sold that happened to fit. It turned out to be a match made in heaven as I don’t think that I have ever gotten more compliments on a watch as that one. Some might consider it ridiculous to fit a $50 watch with a strap costing seven times as much, but it taught me the valuable lesson that a strap can make or break a watch.

Looks are only part of the equation, as wearing comfort is another. When a strap doesn’t sit comfortably around your wrist, it reflects on the watch as a whole. What often happens is that you simply wear it less, even when the watch itself is great. A mere strap change can make a difference. While I am an avid advocate of buying quality, getting the right strap doesn’t always have to cost an arm and a leg. In particular, when looking for a rubber or NATO strap, many cost-effective examples can be found that won’t disappoint.

If you want to ensure that you get it right, a custom-made strap might be the way to go. While this sound expensive, in my experience, the cost is not much higher than if you would buy a strap from one of the well-known Swiss brands, with the advantage that now, you are in the driver’s seat. You are in command of the type of leather, the color of stitching, and the thickness and material used for the lining. It often results in a strap that matches your taste and usually also elevates the way the watch looks. This will increase the wearing comfort as well as the pleasure you get from your watch.

How did you elevate your wrist game by changing the strap? Tell us in the comments

Now, Seiko brings back the second model lineup, the KS1969, based on the King Seiko 45KCM from 1969. Channeling the charm of the original, the newcomers feature a subtle tonneau-shaped stainless steel case, adopting the contours of the 1969 watch but reimagining them for modern times with a rounded, box-shaped glass and a lowered center for increased wearability.

Water-resistant to 50 meters and anti-magnetic up to 4,800 A/m, the King Seiko KS1969 has a “goldilocks” diameter of 39mm and is 9.9mm thick. It boasts a closed case back with the logo of King Seiko.

The vintage-inspired, filigree multi-link brick bracelet has also been redesigned, with shorter links that almost resemble a closely interwoven mesh pattern. It is equipped with a push-button butterfly clasp.

The three new royalties are powered by the slim automatic 6L35 caliber with 45-hour power, which operates at a rate of 28,800 vph and has an accuracy of +15 to -10 seconds per day.

Seiko offers three standard dial variations: silver, “Edo purple,” and vignette green. All have a finely-grained and textured finish that resemble traditional handmade Japanese paper and a date window at 3 o’clock.

Additionally, limited to 700 pieces, the King Seiko KS1969 Limited Edition (ref. SJE115) has the same specifications as the three iterations joining the main King Seiko collection but features a light blue dial with a textured pattern inspired by a “rising dragon,” serving as a metaphor for the Seiko brand progressing toward the next 100 years. In addition, the dragon is also the animal sign for 2024 in the Japanese zodiac. Legend has it that people born in the Year of the Dragon are charismatic, intelligent, confident, powerful and gifted. In everything that they do, they tend to do it to the best of their ability with high standards. As such, it serves as a fitting emblem for the Seiko brand.

All four references will be available from July 2024, with pricing marked at $3,100.

To learn more, visit Seiko, here.