PATEK PHILIPPE PERPETUAL CALENDAR REF. 5940

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5940

Patek Philippe’s cushion-shaped Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5940 is now also available with a rose-gold case. It is powered by Patek’s ultra-thin Caliber 240 Q with micro-rotor. The case measures 37 mm by 44.6 mm. The Ref. 5940R-001 is available for $87,320.

HERMÈS SLIM D’HERMÈS QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL

Hermes Slim d’Hermes Quantième Perpétuel

In January 2017, Hermès unveiled a new version of the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel with platinum case and blue dial. The watch is powered by in-house Caliber H1950, an ultra-thin mechanical movement with micro-rotor. The Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in platinum is available for $39,900.

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

During SIHH 2017, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with black ceramic case and bracelet. The 41-mm-large case houses the self-winding Caliber 5134. The price for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in full ceramic is $93,900. For more on the watch and its movement, click here.

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT MANUFACTURE PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Frederique Constant Manufacture Perpetual Calendar

in 2016, Frederique Constant unveiled to the world the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar with a full, in-house-developed perpetual calendar, priced under $10,000. it is available in either a stainless-steel or rose-gold-plated case, priced at $8,795 and $8,995. We cover the Frederique Constant Manufacture Perpetual Calendar in detail here.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE POUR LE MÉRITE

A Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour Le Mérite”

The hand-wound Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite” in platinum is A. Lange & Söhne’s most complex watch with the attribute “Pour le Mérite.” The in-house movement combines five grand complications: perpetual calendar, chronograph, rattrapante function, fusée-and-chain transmission and tourbillon. The 43-mm-large Tourbograph Perpetual (we cover it in depth here) comes in a limited edition of 50 pieces, priced at 480,000 euros.

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR EXCELLENCE PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar in gold and steel

The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is based on the brand’s in-house automatic base movement, Caliber 36, and offers a 100-hour power reserve. The 42-mm watch sells for $22,000 in steel and $35,100 in rose gold. Click here for our full report on the watch from Baselworld 2017.

Rattrapante chronographs, also referred to as split-seconds chronographs, are a type of chronograph with two seconds hands that allow for the ability to time multiple simultaneous events, such as runners during a race. It can also time a series of events, such as the laps a single person makes on a track. One of the hands, the so-called “rattrapante” hand, sits either directly on top of or underneath the main chronograph hand. The rattrapante hand is started and returns to zero simultaneously with the main chronograph hand. A special push-piece and an additional mechanism make it possible for the rattrapante hand to be repeatedly stopped (so that split times can be read) and then instantly brought in to renewed synchrony with the main chronograph hand by flying back to catch up with it. (“Rattrapanter” is French for “to catch again” or “to take again.”) All this occurs without affecting the motion of the main chronograph hand. Over the past few years, we’ve seen the split-second chronograph trending upward as more and more brands of all sizes add the complication to their arsenal. Here’s a selection of some noteworthy rattrapante chronographs on the market today.

F.P. Journe Chronograph Monopoussoir Rattrapante

F.P. Journe Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante

At SIHH 2018, F.P. Journe debuted the Chronograph Monopoussoir Rattrapante. You may remember F.P. Journe’s contribution to the Only Watch auction back in November 2017, which was constructed from titanium and sold for CHF 1.15 million (an auction record for an F.P. Journe timepiece). That was the inspiration for this release, with the biggest difference coming from the addition of a big date complication. The watch introduced manual-winding Caliber 1518, a monopusher split-second chronograph movement with a hearty 80-hour power reserve and direct gearing with a rocking pinion to avoid the jumping of the hand when starting the chronograph function. The watches differ from each other thanks to their colorful dials and case materials. Price: CHF 58,000 in titanium; CHF 78,000 in platinum.

IWC Portugieser Rattrapante Chronograph

IWC Portugieser Rattrapante Chronograph “Boutique Geneva”

In 2017, IWC released a series of limited-edition Portugieser Rattrapante Chronographs to be sold exclusively at a selection of its boutique locations around the world. These locations included Geneva, Munich, Paris, Milan and Toronto/Vancouver, with each watch featuring a specific aesthetic to appeal to its targeted audience. Our favorite of these models during their initial release was the “Boutique Genève” edition (Ref. IW371221) that was limited to 50 total pieces and included an engraving of the title of Geneva’s 1602 anthem, Cé qu’è lainô, on its caseback. IWC introduced its first rattrapante chronograph to the Portugieser collection in 1995 when Richard Habring developed a split-seconds module for the iconic Valjoux 7750 movement. It uses a push-button at 10 o’clock to control the movement of the upper hand, while the lower hand is managed by the pusher at 2 o’clock. More recently, IWC released the Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Ceratanium in the lead-up to SIHH 2019.

Breitling Navitimer B03 Rattrapante Chronograph

Breitling Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante-45 Boutique Edition

Breitling introduced its Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante 45, outfitted with the brand’s first in-house split-seconds chronograph movement, in 2017. At 2018’s Breitling Summit in London, the brand unveiled a new limited version with a “Stratos Gray” dial, available for sale exclusively at the brand’s 70 boutiques worldwide. The timepiece’s boldly proportioned, 45-mm case is made of stainless steel and is outfitted with a convex, double-nonreflective-coated sapphire crystal over the dial. The three dark gray-toned subdials (30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock, and small seconds at 9 o’clock) pop against the sleek background of the main dial. The split-seconds pusher is embedded in the 3 o’clock crown. Caliber B03’s modular architecture is built upon the base Caliber B01, Breitling’s first manufacture movement, which is equipped with automatic winding, date indication, an integrated 1/4- second chronograph function, and a 70-hour power reserve. The split-seconds module added to this high-performance horological engine is comprised of only 28 parts, and is fitted between the mainplate and calendar mechanism. Limited to just 250 pieces, the Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante 45 Boutique Edition in Stratos Gray is priced at $12,000.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P Grand Complication

Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P Grand Complication

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P Grand Complication in platinum was an evolutive release for the legendary independent watchmaking firm when it was announced in 2017. It represented the next phase of the brand’s iconic range of split-seconds chronographs, last updated in 2012 with the contemporary classic Ref. 5204. The 5372P maintains the complementary perpetual calendar functionality, while heightening the complexity of the rattrapante mechanism by making it into a monopusher. The layout of the dial is transformed as well with the chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock flanked by apertures showing the month and day of week, respectively. The date wheel is placed in a subdial at 6 o’clock while the moon-phase has been relocated to 12 o’clock. Small windows on both sides of the date wheel indicate leap year and day/night. The diameter shrinks slightly as well, now coming in at 38.2 mm compared to 40.2 mm for the Ref. 5204. The dial comes in either blue sunburst with gold applied numerals or in vertically satin-finished rose gold. Price upon request.

A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split

A. Lange & Sohne Triple Split

As it often does, A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of SIHH 2018’s most-discussed novelties with the release of the Triple Split, the world’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph that can perform multi-hour comparative time measurements. The watch’s ability to measure both additive and comparative times up to an astounding 12 hours is achieved by additional rattrapante hands on both the minutes and hours-totalizing subdials. In its switched-off mode, the chronograph’s hand pairs – sweep seconds, minute- and hour-counter hands – are superposed. When the chronograph is activated via its pusher, all these hands start running simultaneously until the rattrapante pusher (on the opposite side of the case) is pressed to freeze intermediate time measurements. Limited to 100 pieces and housed in an 18k white-gold case, the Triple Split is also equipped with a flyback function, one that uses all three hand pairs. Price: approximately $147,000.

It’s been a centuries-old trend in clothing: bespoke tailoring is all about making a singular suit or pair of shoes designed expressly for an individual. Today, as more customers are looking to express their individuality, the concept of having a custom-made watch is taking on all-new meaning. People are looking for something edgy, different and expressive of their own thoughts, hobbies or loves. But are watchmakers ready to comply?

“A personalized approach through customization is key for high-end clients, and particularly those with a penchant for haute horlogerie,” says Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith Watch Company. “We see high demand for this service, and delivering it is part of our commitment to fulfilling client expectations. We create custom pieces for clients who are not interested in wearing watches generally available to the public; they prefer unique examples of watchmaking, a way for them to be actively involved in the creation of a timepiece. And this trend is not slowing down; on the contrary, it is rising.”

Having a customized or unique watch is not a new concept. Historically speaking, many of the top watch brands made unique watches a century ago for their top clients. Easily one of the most impressive examples comes in the form of a gentlemen’s race between automobile engineer James Ward Packard and financial banker and art collector Henry Graves, each of whom would regularly turn to Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin to have the most complicated watches built for them.

For about 35 years starting in 1900, the two men commissioned watches that took years to develop and build, and that would go down in history as the world’s most complicated pieces. In fact, the Graves Super Complication pocketwatch, built by Patek Philippe and delivered in 1933, held the record as the world’s most complicated portable mechanical watch for 56 years.

This is not an isolated example. Many of today’s most iconic watch collections were initially made at the request of clients. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso released in 1931, for instance, was created at the request of polo players who wanted a watch they could wear during play that would not get damaged. The reversible concept was born and the Reverso has been a legendary watch ever since. Similarly, the IWC Portugieser was first built in 1939 at the request of two Portuguese businessmen who wanted a highly legible watch as precise as a marine chronometer for the wrist. The list goes on and on.

In the past, this type of customization was a natural way for a watch brand to grow. However, as time passed and technology progressed, brands became more reliant on machinery and tools for cutting mainplates and other components. It became more and more difficult to take on those custom orders.

Today, with nanotechnology high-tech CNC machines and some automated technology (not to mention computer-aided design), big watch brands simply can’t keep up with the request for specially made movements and watches. Just the retooling of equipment to stop producing one watch model and to start cutting parts for another model can take weeks of lost production.

“There are a lot of powerful buyers who would love to get factory-made customized watches by certain brands; they want watches nobody else can get. But most brands can’t do it because they don’t have the resources, or have so many requests,” says Paul Boutros, Head of Americas & Senior Vice President of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo auction house.

What is Customization
That is not to say that watches customized for individuals don’t get made. They do. More often than we know. Many brands don’t “kiss and tell” about their customization and piece-unique work — often because they know requests would come flooding in if word got out, or out of simple respect for the client.

So, what can be customized on a watch? It depends. On a customized watch (which can be different from a piece unique), a brand might personalize it for a client by adding, for instance, sapphires, emeralds or other gemstones to the case, lugs and even the dial. Other times they offer unique engravings or miniature paintings at the customer’s request. In some instances, top watch brands might customize a movement part with special colors or wheels.

Sometimes, a brand will customize a watch for small groups, such as a group of collectors, a military sect or some other group — in very small numbers — and nobody even knows about them until one comes to auction. “Those customized watches, though not unique, are usually very under the radar and tend to do well at auction,” says Boutros.

Often, too, some watch brands offer a specified selection of customization. Some brands may offer a special model in their collection and then let customers know that certain aspects of the model — such as case material, gemstone choice, strap or other element — can be specially made.

“We receive many, many requests each year and the thought that each of these precious pieces is so significant to its recipient makes us feel like we are helping to build memories of special moments, memories that live on with the timepiece,” says Davide Traxler, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, which offers customized details on its Hijri Perpetual Calendar watch. “Custom-made timepieces are the most fulfilling challenges we have the opportunity to meet. When a watch lover comes to us with a special request, it allows our teams to look for solutions in terms of mechanics or of finishing to satisfy a very distinctive demand.”

In a piece-unique watch — a true one-off timepiece — a brand can take customization to any level, even making an entirely new watch movement (though this is very rare).

Who Can Get A Customized Watch
As mentioned earlier, many big brands can’t stop production to customize watches for individuals, although many of the independents and smaller boutique brands try. In fact, Jacob & Co. is one that talks about its customization work for loyal clients. It has created an Astronomia watch for actor Leonardo DiCaprio’s charity and built a custom Five-Time Zone watch for designer and entrepreneur Virgil Abloh recently.

“Doing bespoke work has been a part of my company since the very beginning,” says Jacob Arabo, founder, Jacob & Co. “It’s how I set myself apart then and we continue to do this today. Nowadays, true luxury is about exclusivity and there is nothing more exclusive than having a bespoke timepiece. I love making my clients’ dreams come true, and our company is set up to create these unique pieces.”

Don’t be fooled, though, getting a brand to make something unique requires the right relationship.“Just having enough money for it isn’t enough. Most people need to have a long-standing relationship and a really interesting concept for a brand to stop work on its serially produced watches to build a one-off,” says Yoni Ben-Yehuda, head of Business Development for Material Good, when talking about pieces unique. “It is not just a money thing. It is about having a long history with the brand, a long organic, meaningful relationship.”

It takes time to build those relationships, and, in many instances, impatience results in after-market customization. However, watch pundits will urge collectors to wait and try to work directly with the brand for personalization. This way, the customized watch is made according to the quality cannons of the brand so that it will hold its value for centuries to come. It is also recorded in the brand archives and carries the brand warranty.

And, according to Boutros, customized watches done in cooperation with the brands do hold their value. In fact, several customized watches that recently sold at auction not only held their value but exceeded anticipated estimates. This includes a unique Kari Voutilainen watch with engraved and enameled case that was made especially for a client. The watch was estimated to sell for CHF 50,000 to CHF 100,000 and sold for over the value at CHF 125,000.

“It is nice to see that these unique pieces, that were the result of someone’s unique concept that was maybe the brainchild of a collector, and were a collaboration between individual and brand, are so well received,” says Boutros.

While many brands keep their customized watches top secret, others are proud of their specialized work, and sometimes seek client permission to talk about it — especially because often that customization leads to new technology and patents. Such is the case with the Vacheron Constantin Ref. 57260 that was created at the request of a consumer. Granted, that customer had to wait eight years for the piece-unique watch to be completed, but it was worth the wait. It was deemed the most complicated watch in the world when it was unveiled in 2017. And because of that special order, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled a host of new watches with concepts and complications first born of that special piece.

Independents Might Do It Better
Because they already produce watches in extremely limited numbers, certain independent watch brands may do a better job of delivering customized watches. They can take a single watchmaker aside to work on a special order or slow up their production for that special watch and nobody really notices.

Some independent brands actually prioritize custom-made pieces — understanding that this is what today’s customer is all about. Andersen Genève, for instance, has been making unique pieces since its founding in 1979. While many are part of its “Piece Unique” series of watches designed and developed by Svend Andersen and other watchmakers, some are created especially in response to client requests. (In fact, it is not unusual for brands to create unique watches of their own design that they know customers will ultimately buy. Vacheron Constantin does it in its Les Cabinotiers series, and Patek Philippe does it in its Rare Handcrafts collection.)

H. Moser & Cie. also regularly creates specialized watches for its clients but limits the number of custom pieces it makes annually. According to Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., the brand creates about 10 unique pieces per year for clients. “The type of customization is quite diverse, some just want a unique dial color to match their favorite wines, others want new techniques like painting on mother-of-pearl or a combination of techniques.” He references a unique piece made for a client as an anniversary watch for his wife that had to feature a dragon, the color blue and amethyst stones. “The result is mesmerizing. To be honest, it inspired [me], and maybe will translate into more standard models in some form in the future.”

At a more affordable level, Meerson predominantly creates unique pieces for clients (though the brand also offers “production series” watches). According to Alexandre Meerson, it was his dream to create special watches for customers, working directly with them to design something personal and lasting. “With bespoke or made-to-measure, people discover the virtues of patience, and the deep pleasure that comes with having something created just for you. They watch the project unfold with emotion that is almost childlike.”

New Methods of Personalization
Recognizing how important customizing and personalizing a timepiece is to many consumers, certain brands are trying to think outside the box. This includes turning to some not-so-traditional methods. Among them, offering digital configurators where customers can pick and choose the colors of materials, movement colors, case and bezel metals, straps and more. Armin Strom was perhaps the true pioneer in the world of configuration three years ago and has been the model others emulate. Recently, Porsche Design began offering an extensive “personalization” program, as well.

Other brands that admit their own limitations when it comes to custom work are authorizing other companies to do it for them. Such is the case with Hublot, Zenith, TAG Heuer and others who work with Bamford Watch Department — authorizing customization of certain models. Even Girard-Perregaux has started working with Bamford to allow personalized options for its beloved Cat’s Eye watches for women.

“Partnering with Bamford and offering the Cat’s Eye on his platform allows our clients to customize dials, hands, straps, colors so they can give their own twist to a timeless classic,” says Clemence Dubois, Chief Marketing Officer for Girard-Perregaux. “If we don’t have the capacity to do this ourselves, it is good to authorize customization to meet the demands of today’s clients.”

In these instances, Bamford works directly with the brands to fulfill a custom order — so that the watch is manufacture-approved, built to its exacting standards and still holds a certificate of authenticity and warranty.
Having a luxury watch that isn’t just all blinged out but that is personalized by the brand may well be the way to go. As American rapper and songwriter Jay-Z says in his song 30 Something, “I don’t got the bright watch, I got the right watch.”

One of the things that I enjoy so much about WatchTime, and why it was a very easy question for me when I was asked to join them, is that they cover the entire spectrum of watchmaking. While the most expensive and rarest watches often dominate the headlines, only a fraction of us can afford those. In my opinion, that’s okay, as we all need a dream watch, something to aspire to, but it is also okay because there are so many fantastic watches in between, at nearly any price point and with interesting stories to tell about them.

As a watch journalist, I have to admit that I am terribly spoiled. I have the privilege of being up close and personal with some of the most amazing watches ever made, and that even on a daily basis. I think that it is first and foremost the obligation of any watch journalist to remain as objective as possible, and therefor judge each watch on its own merits. Again, as Editor-at-Large, I have a privilege in this as well, as my position allows me to write only about those watches that I feel passionate about. This is also the keyword for the second (or shared first) most important thing a watch journalist needs to maintain, and that’s his or her passion. When these two elements are combined, you get in my opinion the right articles. They also open the door to the realisation that more expensive and better are terms that can go together but most certainly don’t have to.

Better is in the watchworld a dubious term to begin with, because what makes a watch better? Does it have to be more accurate? Does it have to have multiple complications? Does it need to be “manufacture”? I can just as easily make an argument for these points as against them. Also, “better” doesn’t automatically mean that it provides a more satisfactory experience. A while ago McLaren was kind enough to lend me a 720S, and boy, did I have fun in that car! But I also had a blast when a friend let me drive his Mazda MX5 (also known as Miata in different parts of the world).

While on opposite sides of the automotive spectrum, when you boil it down, McLaren and Mazda shared quite a few of the same goals. In the watch industry things are quite similar, meaning that we need, and fortunately have, cool Swatches and Seiko 5’s, but also Patek’s and Richard Mille’s and a whole world in between. Each of them has their own place and role in the market, something for which we need to respect and applaud them, for you in collecting and for us at WatchTime, in writing.

What is your most expensive and least expensive dream watch? Share it with us in the comments below.

1. SECOND TIME ZONE: CALATRAVA PILOT TRAVEL TIME REFERENCE 5524G

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524G

Whether for a winter vacation in Canada or a business trip to Japan, a well-thought-out time-zone function is very useful in our mobile era, when people cross time zones almost as often as their grandparents crossed the street. The time-zone indicator is even more useful when it’s complemented by additional displays, such as a day-night indicator or a date display. This is offered by the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, which debuted in 2015. From a functional point of view, this watch adds another practical feature: not only is there an alternately blue and white day-night indicator for home time, there’s also an identical day-night display for local time, i.e., wherever in the world the wearer happens to be at the moment. The date is shown by a hand on a large subdial, which gives the face an attractive, symmetrical look. Finely decorated self-winding manufacture Caliber 324 S C FUS and a handsome 42-mm gold case lend a luxurious aura to this sportily designed pilots’ watch. ($47,630)

2. WORLD-TIME DISPLAY: WORLD-TIME WATCH REFERENCE 5230G

Patek Philippe World Time Watch Ref. 5230G

If you want to keep an eye on the time in several surfing regions or at various business locations, you need a watch that can simultaneously show the time in more than one time zone. Most such timepieces show the hour in the Earth’s 24 standard (full-hour) time zones. A good example is Patek Philippe’s world-time watch, which debuted in 1937 and has been released over the decades in numerous stylistic variations. The newest model comes with a 38.5-mm white- or rose-gold case. Individually shaped and boldly angular hands rotate above the dial, which is elaborately guilloché-embellished and anthracite colored near the center. This latest incarnation preserves the simplicity of time setting: the traveler brings the desired time zone to the top of the dial by pressing the push-piece at the 10. Meanwhile, the 24-hour ring and the openwork hour hand jump along to stay in synchrony so all of the times are correct after the user has set the watch for a new time zone. The central hour and minutes hands can be repositioned by pulling the crown outward and turning it: this causes only the 24-hour ring to turn along with the hands because the desired reference location should logically remain unchanged. As an aid to orientation, the nighttime hours from 6 pm to 6 am are printed against a black background on the hour ring. The functions are controlled by automatic Caliber 240 HU, for which the suffix “HU” stands for heure universelle, i.e., universal time. ($47,630)

3. ANNUAL CALENDAR: REFERENCE 5396G

Patek Philippe Ref 5396G Annual Calendar

Patek Philippe celebrated the 20th anniversary of its invention by debuting two variations of annual calendar Reference 5396 in 2016. This complication is only 20 years old because it was developed several decades after the premiere of its big brother, the perpetual calendar. The mechanism takes into account the various lengths of 11 months throughout the year, but requires manual correction on the last evening of February. Patek Philippe provides the usual indicators for the date, the day of the week, and the month, along with a moon-phase display and a 24-hour indicator that share a subdial at 6. This 38.5- mm watch is available in white gold with a gray dial or in rose gold with a silvery white face. Each variation encases self-winding manufacture Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303. ($47,970)

4. CHRONOGRAPH: REFERENCE 5170R

Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5170R

If, rather than tallying the duration of your own marathon runs, you prefer to time a journey by rail or by car, then the inclusion of a chronograph function in an elegant watch like this one is the right combination for you. With the debut in 2009 of hand-wound Caliber CH 29- 535 PS, Patek Philippe launched its first manufacture, serially produced chronograph movement without other additional functions. This caliber premiered in a ladies’ watch, followed one year later by its debut in yellow-gold Reference 5170J for men. The latter was subsequently augmented by white-gold versions. Rose-gold variations with black or classical silver-colored dials followed in 2016. Each model has a sleekly styled 39.4-mm-diameter case and a face with subdials positioned just south of the dial’s equator. Alongside these “simple” chronographs, Patek Philippe also offers chronograph watches with a split-seconds function, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, second time zone, and world-time indicator. ($81,080)

Save

Save