Panerai’s Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel, launched in 2022, is an appealingly robust companion for sports and in daily life. It owes its special character to the use of recycled materials and to a new dial with a color gradient that transitions from gray to black.

Everybody’s talking about sustainability nowadays. And for good reason, because manufacturers and customers alike are becoming increasingly committed to this goal. Of course, a watch is a very small product. Straps made of plastic recovered from the ocean and cases made of recycled metals may contribute less to the big picture than using eco-friendly fuels or recycled plastic in the construction industry.

But there is one aspect that should not be overlooked: watches are emotional products and their manufacturers are internationally known brands, which often attract huge fans bases. When a watch manufacturer prioritizes environmental protection and sustainability, the message can reach large numbers of people. Ideally, the brand raises awareness for an issue that affects us all.

For example, Panerai recently started using cases made from recycled metals. What began in 2019 with the limited edition Submersible Mike Horn Edition PAM00984 made of Eco-Titanium was continued in 2021 with the Submersible eLab-ID PAM01225, in which Eco-Titanium and other recycled materials make up 98.6 percent of the watch’s total weight. Alongside this concept watch, Panerai launched its first watches made from eSteel, also in 2021. Although they contain less recycled content, they’re available in a wider variety of models and in larger quantities.

Recycled materials account for at least 53 percent of the weight of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel PAM01288 that we examined in this test. Panerai achieves this percentage by using recycled stainless steel in the case and by making the strap from recycled PET. The recycled steel, which is mixed with conventional stainless steel to create eSteel, is sourced from the watchmaking industry and also from other industries. According to Panerai, using eSteel significantly reduces CO2 emissions in the production of watch cases.

At Panerai, efforts to achieve sustainable production methods are combined with other sustainability efforts. For example, since 2012, the brand has been a certified member of the Responsible Jewelry Council, the standardization organization for the jewelry and watch industries that focuses on corporate ethics and responsible supply chains. Panerai also organizes plastic collection days and supports the Imibala Trust, which works with school-age South African children from impoverished families, as well as various organizations that have been recommended by Panerai’s employees.

Each watch fan must decide for himself what importance to attach to these corporate sustainability approaches and how strongly they will influence his purchasing decisions. But what can be determined objectively are the stylistic advantages of our test watch. Its dial is new to the Submersible collection and features a handsome color gradient that transitions from gray at the 12 to black at the 6. Together with the ceramic bezel, which, for the first time, is polished, the result is an attractive mix of sportiness and elegance.

Also new is the 44-mm diameter that gives this model its Italian name. The new size fills the gap between 42- and 47-mm Submersibles. The watch is 13.3 mm in height, which is not only appropriate for an eye-catching sports watch, but also guarantees good proportions and a comfortable fit.

Caliber P.900 combines moderate dimensions and a 3-day power reserve. Panerai introduced this automatic movement in 2019 inside its slim Luminor Due line, later used it in the 42-mm Submersible, and now also uses it in the new 44-mm version. The P.900 movement is just 28.2 mm in diameter and an appealingly slim 4.2 mm in height.

The P.900 movement was designed by Manufacture Horlogère ValFleurier, which, like Panerai, belongs to the Richemont luxury group. Founded in Val-de-Travers in 2005, Horlogère ValFleurier develops and produces selected calibers for various brands in the Richemont group. Caliber P.900 is based on a movement that is also supplied to other members of the group. IWC, for example, uses it for the Caliber 32110/32111, Baume & Mercier for the Baumatic. Panerai’s version comes with the same long-lasting 3-day power reserve, but without a stop-seconds function for exact time setting and elaborate surface decorations. In addition, the minute hand jumps about 2 minutes backward when the crown is pulled out on the model we tested.

A very simple mechanism is installed to finely adjust the rate. The active length of the hairspring can be altered by manually shifting the position of the hairspring key. Our rate test accordingly discovered mixed results. An electronic Witschi Timegrapher found that our test watch ran too slowly with a daily loss of 4.5 seconds, but the maximum difference among the individual positions was a reasonable 8 seconds per day.

The closed caseback is acceptable in view of the simplicity of the movement behind it. Panerai adorns the back with an engraving of an SLC, siluro a lenta corsa, or “slow-moving torpedo” in English. The Italian Navy developed the SLC in 1935 as a manned torpedo and used it primarily for sabotage missions targeting enemy ships during World War II.

The sturdy, fully threaded caseback makes a rugged impression, as does the patented crown guard, which has a lever that must first be opened before the crown can be pulled out to set the time. This hinged component already existed in the late 1940s, quite early in Panerai’s history as a maker of timepieces for navy frogmen. The system doesn’t seal the winding button any better than a screw-in crown, but it has the advantage that an open lever immediately catches your eye, so you won’t jump into the water with the crown pulled out. A rubber ring surrounds the crown, which makes the button easier to pull out and turn. Afterward, you push the crown firmly into the case by pivoting the lever, which is engraved with the name “eSteel” on watches made from this environmentally friendly alloy.

The functional advantages of the special crown-protection mechanism are undeniable. But more important is the fact that the pivoting lever gives an unmistakable look to Panerai’s watches. Together with the cushion-shaped case and the sandwich-style dial used on many models, the distinctive lever guarantees that a Panerai (Luminor) is instantly recognizable even from a great distance.

However, the Submersible models do without the traditional sandwich-style dial, which is one of Panerai’s three decisive features. In its place, applied markers are used, which like the hands and hour markings, are filled with plenty of luminous material. Most of the indicators shine in Panerai’s characteristic Super-Lumi-Nova green, but the minute hand and the dot at the 12 on the bezel emit a blue glow. This luminescence makes it easy to read the time at night or under water. But while the time is clearly legible, the bezel remains dark except for the large circular zero dot, and there are only individual minute markings for the first quarter hour.

The high price of this watch raises a familiar question: Who would go for a dive while wearing a watch that costs more than $10,000? It doesn’t matter whether the case is made of conventional stainless steel, eSteel or titanium, it is certain to get scratched if it scrapes against diving equipment, a coral reef or a sunken ship. In most instances, an expensive timepiece like this one is more likely to be worn as a luxury item than as a professional timekeeping instrument for divers.

When you wear the Panerai Submersible, if daily life gets a bit rough, you don’t have to do without your luxury watch. Its toughness is ensured by the scratch resistance of its sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel, the pressure resistance of its case of up to 30 bar, and its two durable straps. One is made of recycled PET with a lining and perforated leather reinforcement. If you decide to wear this watch while swimming, you should replace the PET strap with the additional rubber strap that comes with the watch. Each strap can be easily removed by pressing down on the latches on the underside of the strap lugs with a special tool, which also comes with the watch, until the two very sturdy bars slide out of the metal sleeves that are sewn into the strap.

This sturdy and easy-to-use system also protects the watch from the scratches that would be a threat if you used a strap-changing tool to open conventional spring bars. The only downside is that Panerai includes only one of its large format pin buckles, so this must be separately removed and attached to the new strap with the aid of a screwdriver, which is also included.

After taking a long look at our test watch, we can summarize its pros and cons. First the pros: the watch looks good, runs for a long timespan of three full days, is comfortable to wear, is easy to read, and embodies Panerai’s sustainability approach, which is in harmony with the spirit of today. But it deserves criticism for its comparatively unadorned movement and less-than perfect satin finishing on the case above the strap lugs. And while these are minor blemishes, they shouldn’t be found on a watch with a price of $10,900.

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While stainless steel is, for many, the preferred material for luxury sports watches, gold still has its fans. In fact, after a decade or two of pink gold being on the rise, it is now yellow gold that is making a comeback. Especially for those who enjoy a more classic look, this is indeed a very tempting material. Seductive are also the following four sportive watches that look great in gold;

Breitling Super Avi B04 Chronograph GMT 46 P-51 Mustang

These two Breitlings perfectly illustrate the difference in appeal between stainless steel and gold. While more of a good-looking instrument in the first, the latter adds a dash of glamour and luxury while being just as capable. Granted, 18 karat gold is a softer material than stainless steel, so it damages quicker, but unless you are going to wear it when things get really rough, you should be fine. What I also like about aviation watches in gold is that they tend to age very nicely. I suspect that this has something to do with the chronograph complication that they are often fitted with, which amplifies their practical nature.

Panerai Luminor Calendario Perpetuo

This watch almost contradicts what Panerai stands for, as it combines a complex movement with an innovative perpetual calendar complication with a Goldtech case. This is Panerai’s proprietary alloy with a slightly higher copper content to give a richer hue. Because of the way Panerai worked with this material and the way it integrated the complications in the overall design, it remains grounded in the DNA of the brand. It also shows how powerful the Luminor design is because while a 44mm diameter large watch in polished gold sounds like too much of a good thing, this Panerai proves that it is temptation for the wrist and a luscious alternative to their stainless steel and titanium models.

Angelus Chronodate Gold

Gold and the color blue always go very nicely together, as this Angelus Chronodate underscores. The two really get a synergy going that makes the blue look more luxurious and the gold more sportive. Angelus works this to a further degree of perfection by giving the blue dial different finishes that interact differently with the gold case. It results in a precious, sportive creation that quite literally unites the best of both worlds.

Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only

Hublot is a brand that always seems to be ahead of the curve when it comes to trends. This is also the case with the return of yellow gold in a more prominent position within their collection. With the Big Bang Integral Time Only, they make it almost all about this material as there isn’t even the distraction from a chronograph movement, a complication the Big Bang is well-known for. By alternating brushed and polished surfaces, Hublot succeeds in maintaining a sportive look for this watch, making it almost like an understatement. As it is also fitted with a gold bracelet, one can expect that the heft of the Big Bang Integral Time Only on the wrist is quite substantial. As this is even more than if it had been made from stainless steel, one can consider this the sportive feel of luxury.

What sports watch would you like to wear in gold? Let us know in the comments!

Featuring six barrels and four patent systems, it is capable of transforming the mechanical energy stored in four of its six barrels into luminosity that lights up elements on the dial, the hands, the triangle on the bezel and a linear power reserve indicator for the light function. Another impressive element of the Submersible Elux LAB-ID is that it stays illuminated continuously for a full 30 minutes on a full charge. The powerful light function is activated by opening the patented pusher-protector system and clicking on the dedicated pusher located at 8 o’clock.

The conversion of mechanical energy into light is possible thanks to a micro-generator incorporated into the self-winding caliber P.9010/EL with a power reserve of 3 days for the time indication. Equipped with custom-made coils, magnets and a stator designed to optimize energy efficiency, its high-speed rotor rotates at 80 revolutions per second and generates a high-frequency electrical signal of 240 Hz.

The design, developed by Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee engineers, is based on the brand’s innovations in the field of luminescence, such as the famous Radiomir and Luminor compounds and a historic patent called “Elux”. An abbreviation of “elettroluminescenza”, Italian for electroluminescence, Elux is a technology patented by Panerai on June 15, 1966 to enhance the luminescence of marine instruments used by the Italian Navy.

In addition to its luminescent technology, Panerai presents a new material: Ti-Ceramitech, a high-tech material obtained through a process of titanium ceramization by plasma electrolytic oxidation, which transforms the surface of the titanium alloy into a dense ceramic layer. According to Panerai, it is 44% lighter than steel and 10 times more resistant to fracture than ceramic. Water resistant to an impressive 500 meters, the case has a bold diameter of 49mm.

The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID is limited to 150 limited-edition pieces, with an availability of 50 pieces per year over three years, each priced at $96,300.

To learn more, visit Panerai, here.

The environment is a hot topic. Quite literally, as life for us will become far less sustainable as the earth is heating up. It will make the oceans rise, the weather far more unpredictable and volatile, accelerates desertification, and the list goes on. To turn the tide, a change is needed, fast and quite radical. While the vast majority of the watch industry underscores this, making actual changes proves to be quite challenging.

One of the most significant issues is that, in particular, high-end watches are luxury goods. As the name already implies, these are things that are (very) nice to have but by no means a necessity. Closing down production is not a solution, as this is along the line of committing collective suicide to save the environment. The best course of action is to do things differently. That is, by itself, already a momentous task because it is sometimes complicated to determine the best way to serve the environment, also because the impact of individual actions cannot be measured so easily, let alone compared.

I struggle with this in my personal life as well, and those struggles are not any different for watch manufacturers. We can debate on what the best course of action it, but I feel that the best thing is to start simply somewhere. Chopard has been a trailblazer when it comes to lowering the environmental footprint of the use of gold by using only 100% ethical gold in their manufacture, which not only focuses on the environment, but on social aspects as well.

Panerai has also set out on a quest to become an environmentally responsible watch manufacturer, as they showed with the eLAB-ID PAM01225. They even shared the details of their suppliers, allowing other brands to follow in their footsteps.

These are actions that make a difference, as Oris also proves. That brand is working very hard to make sustainability the core of its DNA, not only by raising funds for non-profit environmental organizations but also by investing in its facilities and production process to lower the overall impact as much as possible. They even publish a sustainability report, making them accountable for their actions, and I would very much like to see more brands doing this.

Sometimes I hear the opinion that brands only do this to look more sympathetic and sell more watches. While they are indeed a business, I seriously doubt if this is the case. Making a change often comes with significant investments, some of which you never will recuperate in an economic sense, even when you sell significantly more watches because of it (which I doubt). The question is also if these actions are even optional because if a change is not made now, it might be too late, and that is perhaps even the biggest threat to sustaining the business model.

What do you think; should watch brands take more action to lower their own footprint in order to save the environment? Would you stop buying watches from brands that don’t?

One of the things that have always struck me as very weird is watch brands telling us for which gender, specific models are. While this very well may help the marketing department target its efforts, why would you voluntarily limit to who you are selling your product to? Granted, not many men will be drawn to wear a 28mm watch with a pink mother-of-pearl dial decorated with butterflies, but for the most part, it is a grey area, with quite a few watches being able to go either way.

Women often are far more adventurous in this matter than men. They more easily venture out and wear Rolex sports models or even 44mm Panerai’s. They often don’t feel that their femininity is compromised when wearing something that is advertised as being masculine. Men, on the other hand, often feel far less comfortable even considering wearing a watch marketed towards the fairer sex. The best way to ensure that the majority of them do not even look twice at these watches is to put the term ‘lady’ in the model’s name.

It is interesting to note that trends do have an effect on this. While we are now moving again into smaller and thinner watches, the boundaries between male and female timepieces gradually dissolve. Combine this with the gender fluidity that is accepted more widely every day, and it makes sense to let the clients decide what to wear without pre-tagging their decisions. In doing so, men and women will more freely pick a timepiece that truly suits them, and isn’t that what it is all about?

Have you ever bought a watch marketed towards the other sex? Let us know in the comments