Of the various ongoing trends in the watch world, ever-improving power reserves in mechanical timepieces are among the most practical. With collectors often owning a variety of pieces they like to change in and out on a daily basis, owning a mechanical timepiece that’s still running after it’s been put down for a few days is a luxury that many appreciate.

For a long time, exceptional power reserves were frequently reserved only for watches within the mid to high range of manufacturing and pricing, but in the past few years especially, that is beginning to change. There are now plenty of watches in the sub-$3,500 price category available with three-day or better reserves. We put together a list of six of these pieces, which includes offerings from Baume & Mercier, Christopher Ward, Certina, Hamilton, Tissot, and Oris.

Certina DS-1 ($650+)

Certina is a brand best known by most for its popular dive watch, the Certina DS PH200M, which we recently went hands-on with last month (and which you can read more about here). In addition to that popular diver, however, the brand also has some hidden gems in its catalogue, one being the 80-hour power-reserve-equipped Certina DS-1.

The DS-1 is available in a number of different colorways, in all-steel or two-tone cases, as well as silver, black, gray, and blue-accented dials. All of them share the same movement: the 3-day+ Powermatic 80. The automatic mechanism is derived from a base ETA 2824-2, which by slowing down its frequency to 21,600 vph from the standard 28,800 provides the movement an almost doubled reserve, at 80 hours.

The brand currently prices the watch at about $650; depending on the dial color it can frequently be found via an authorized dealer for a couple hundred less. Certina.

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium ($775+)

Certina’s Swatch Group sister brand, Tissot, uses its own application of the Powermatic 80 movement in the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium, the first in Tissot’s extensive collection to use that movement.

It was actually through the initial news of this Tissot watch that we learned the Powermatic 80 caliber not only has a reduced frequency, but also makes use of various silicon parts, including for its spring barrel which, according to the brand, results in more efficient operation without a major sacrifice to the ultimate timekeeping ability of the watch.

Like the DS-1, the Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium is available in an array of dial colors and case materials, though it is the steel, blue-dial model and two-tone crème-dial edition that seem to most frequently catch the eyes of collectors. Pricing begins at $775 for steel models on leather straps, and rises up to $1,495 for two-tone examples on metal bracelets.

You can find this watch and a number of other more recent releases containing the Powermatic 80 in Tissot’s online store here. Tissot.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve Auto ($1,245+)

The final Swatch Group watch we have on our list is the Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve Auto, which like the previous two watches also features a 3-day+ power reserve (aka 80 hours), though in this instance accomplished via the Hamilton Caliber H-13.

Like the previous two models, the Jazzmaster is a relatively classical-looking timepiece, though with some additional features accounting for its higher price tag. Among these, we find a number of new dial colors including sunray silver, black, crème, and blue, all with a power-reserve indicator on the dial in addition to the date window.

While not confirmed by information from the brands, it has been speculated the H-13 automatic movement inside the Jazzmaster is a Hamilton-modified Powermatic 80 (itself, as mentioned, derived from the ETA 2824-2), especially because Hamilton also falls under the Swatch Group umbrella. Nonetheless, with classic looks, an 80-hour reserve, and a price point just topping $1,000, the Hamilton watch can surely draw attention to itself in its own right.

The Jazzmaster Power Reserve Auto is offered directly through the Hamilton website here, with prices starting at $1,245 for a steel model on a leather strap, and only going up slightly to $1,495 when the watch is placed on a five-link metal bracelet instead. Hamilton.

Christopher Ward C65 Trident Diver SH21 Limited Edition ($2,170)

British watchmaker Christopher Ward might not be the brand you think of first when it comes to timepieces with great power reserves, but the brand’s in-house Caliber SH21 movement with its 120-hour power reserve and COSC-specification timekeeping ability is nothing to scoff at.

The caliber comes standard in a handful of Christopher Ward’s watches since its initial release in 2014, including the racing-inspired C1 Morgan 3 Wheeler Chronometer ($2,050) and C1 Morgan Aero 8 Chronometer ($2,685), as well as the Bauhaus-style C1 Grand Malvern Small Seconds ($1,540).

Our choice for this list is the C65 Trident Diver SH21 Limited Edition, which is a luxurious take on the brand’s signature C65 Trident Diver design, and one highly limited to only 150 pieces. Equipped with a five-day power reserve, chronometer certification, 150-meter water resistance, and a solid vintage-inspired design, all in a 41-mm steel case and a blue dial — there is a lot to like about the model.

While currently stock is very limited as a result of its limited production run, some models are still available directly through CW, here, priced at $2,170. Christopher Ward.

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic ($2,990+)

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic was much discussed upon its release, and for good reason. With a COSC chronometer certification, a five-day power reserve, magnetic protection, extended service intervals, and a very classical design, the watch has had a lot to offer since its initial introduction in 2018 and subsequent expansion in 2019.

Pricing for the standard Clifton Baumatic — that is, a time-and-date model — begins at $2,990 for either a dégradé blue, dégradé grey, or silver dial on a leather strap, and climbing slightly to $3,190 if you prefer it on a five-link metal bracelet. Depending on the case material and additional complications, prices on Baumatic models range up to $12,200. Baume & Mercier offers a number of models for purchase now directly though its online store, which you can find here.

Want to learn more about the Clifton Baumatic? We had one in for a watch test last spring; you can read the results here. Baume & Mercier.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 ($3,500)

If the previous models each generated discussion upon their releases, then Oris’ unveiling of its Calibre 400 movement — and shortly thereafter the new Aquis Date models that contained it — sparked serious conversation throughout the watch community.

Not only was Calibre 400 the first self-winding in-house movement produced by Oris, but the movement, and thus the new watch that contains it, come equipped with a five-day power reserve, serious antimagnetic properties, a 10-year warranty, and an astonishing 10-year service suggestion. All of this came together with the already widely praised design of the Aquis Date and its 300-meter water resistance, culminating in a high-value proposition that is likely to find its way into the collections of collectors young and old.

The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 costs $3,300 for the 43.5-mm version on a rubber strap and $3,500 on a metal bracelet, though it is highly anticipated other sizes and models containing the movement will become available in 2021. The watch is available both directly through Oris, here, and via authorized dealers globally. Oris.

What do you think of our list, and would you want to add any of these watches to your collection? Are there any watches we’re missing that fit this category? Let us know in the comments below!

The environment is a hot topic. Quite literally, as life for us will become far less sustainable as the earth is heating up. It will make the oceans rise, the weather far more unpredictable and volatile, accelerates desertification, and the list goes on. To turn the tide, a change is needed, fast and quite radical. While the vast majority of the watch industry underscores this, making actual changes proves to be quite challenging.

One of the most significant issues is that, in particular, high-end watches are luxury goods. As the name already implies, these are things that are (very) nice to have but by no means a necessity. Closing down production is not a solution, as this is along the line of committing collective suicide to save the environment. The best course of action is to do things differently. That is, by itself, already a momentous task because it is sometimes complicated to determine the best way to serve the environment, also because the impact of individual actions cannot be measured so easily, let alone compared.

I struggle with this in my personal life as well, and those struggles are not any different for watch manufacturers. We can debate on what the best course of action it, but I feel that the best thing is to start simply somewhere. Chopard has been a trailblazer when it comes to lowering the environmental footprint of the use of gold by using only 100% ethical gold in their manufacture, which not only focuses on the environment, but on social aspects as well.

Panerai has also set out on a quest to become an environmentally responsible watch manufacturer, as they showed with the eLAB-ID PAM01225. They even shared the details of their suppliers, allowing other brands to follow in their footsteps.

These are actions that make a difference, as Oris also proves. That brand is working very hard to make sustainability the core of its DNA, not only by raising funds for non-profit environmental organizations but also by investing in its facilities and production process to lower the overall impact as much as possible. They even publish a sustainability report, making them accountable for their actions, and I would very much like to see more brands doing this.

Sometimes I hear the opinion that brands only do this to look more sympathetic and sell more watches. While they are indeed a business, I seriously doubt if this is the case. Making a change often comes with significant investments, some of which you never will recuperate in an economic sense, even when you sell significantly more watches because of it (which I doubt). The question is also if these actions are even optional because if a change is not made now, it might be too late, and that is perhaps even the biggest threat to sustaining the business model.

What do you think; should watch brands take more action to lower their own footprint in order to save the environment? Would you stop buying watches from brands that don’t?

Criticism and watch journalism have always been on edge with one another. One could argue that there is a great dependency between the writing press and the watch brands. Even at WatchTime, many of the brands we cover also advertise with us, so we better be nice to them, or not? We are indeed, but the general conviction among myself and my fellow editors and contributors is that when constructive criticism is in place, it should be given. It not only ensures correct representation towards the most important people in the WatchTime universe, you as our readers, but it also helps the brands to become even better than they already are.

As Editor-at-Large, nobody tells me what to write. While this may seem to be the privilege of a senior position, it is not, as nobody here has to write something they don’t want to. While we come from different walks of life and have a wide variety of interests, we all share a deep passion for watchmaking. We strongly believe that you need to read this passion in what we write, so when you don’t feel passionate about the subject, you shouldn’t write about it. So perhaps it says more about the watches we don’t cover than the watches we do.

While it is crucial to remain critical, so is to give credit where credit is due. When I started writing about two decades ago, there were still some watches that didn’t live up to their expectations. The industry has grown bounds and leaps every since. When I look at the watches presented by brands such as Oris, Seiko, Tissot, or Longines, the quality is often very impressive, even at their entry-level models. They are so good that they come with the obligation for higher-tier brands to do even better, a challenge to which many are happy to oblige. So when I write about watches that I feel passionate about, there is often not that much to complain about. But as the perfect watch has yet to be built, there are still the pros and cons that need to be presented and explained to you, our readers. Not because they are good or bad, but more so that you can form an educated opinion about what matters to you and what doesn’t. So when my colleagues and I sound pretty excited about the watches we write about, it is not because we get told to do so, but because we picked the topics we actually like to begin with. Call it a perk of the job, as we get paid anyway.

As we like to keep things positive, let us know in the comments the watch that, in recent years, impressed you the most!

Watches have become noticeably more colorful during the past decade. As recently as 2010, luxury watches were still mainly an achromatic affair — with white or black dials and silvery steel cases, at most there was a singular red hand. But this situation soon changed. Colorful dials and bracelets became more frequent, and materials like rubber invited designers to play with color. In the second half of the decade, watches at first became blue, and later, more and more models appeared in green. Both trends continue to this day. But in 2021, a completely different hue moved into the limelight: gray.

The surprising thing is that none of these gray watches looks gray — at least, not in the sense that people often associate with gray — drab, boring or inconspicuous. These watches are different. They stride onto a watch stage that is much more colorful and diverse than ever before. Today, any color is conceivable, even for a luxury watch, both in terms of technical feasibility and public acceptance. A watch that’s gray could just as easily be green, blue or red. Against this background, the conscious decision in favor of gray becomes a statement, and the effect is totally different than it would have been in 2010.

At the same time, gray is the antithesis to the world of colorful diversity. It invites its viewer to rest, pause and take a breather. Gray has another fascinating quality: it’s not one-dimensional because not all grays are the same. On the one hand, this is due to the proportions of white and black, which make the gray look darker or lighter. On the other hand, some gray tones look almost colorful because they change to green, blue or brown, depending on the lighting.

A version of this article appears in the WatchTime Special Design Issue 2022, on sale now.

ORIS AQUIS DATE
Oris widens the Aquis model’s already diverse color palette with a variation that transitions from mint green to gray. This combines with the light gray inlays made of the heavy metal tungsten on the bezel to produce a fresh new look. Self-winding Sellita Caliber SW200 with Oris’s characteristic red rotor ticks inside the stainless-steel case. The case has a sapphire crystal and a solid back, and it remains water resistant to a depth of 300 meters. The new dial debuts in the smaller version of the Aquis, which is 39.5 mm in diameter and costs $2,050 as shown.

Oris Aquis Date

GIRARD-PERREGAUX LAUREATO ABSOLUTE CHRONOGRAPH
The dials in the new Laureato Absolute collection shimmer blue in the center and almost black at the rim. The color gradient looks especially handsome on the chronograph, which also has subdials with black centers. The 44-mm PVD-coated titanium case encloses self-winding manufacture Caliber GP03300-1058. Attached to a rubber wristband with decorative blue stitching, the new chronograph costs $12,900.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph

H. MOSER & CIE. ENDEAVOUR TOURBILLON
Moser is a pioneer for dials with color gradients, which this manufacture in Schaffhausen describes as fumé. The latest is the Endeavour Tourbillon in “Cosmic Green.” The dial’s design is particularly effective thanks to the total absence of indexes and numerals. The 42-mm white-gold case is the home of self-winding Caliber HMC 804 with a double hairspring and an ample 72-hour power reserve. Moser builds 50 pieces, each of which sells for $69,000.

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Cosmic Green

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SIXTIES
After an eye-catching green dial last year, the Glashütte brand – or more specifically its dial manufacturer in Pforzheim, Germany – now unveils the same tech-nique in orange. Red and black lacquers, applied by a very special technique to the irregularly embossed dial, create the unique dégradé effect. The 39-mm steel watch is powered by the manufacture’s self-winding Caliber 39-52. This version, which will be produced in 2019 only, costs $6,400.

Glashütte Original Sixties

TAG HEUER AUTAVIA ISOGRAPH
A technical specialty ticks behind this new model’s dial, which has a color gradient in blue, green, brown, dark gray or light gray. The brand replaced the conventional hairspring in ETA’s self-winding Caliber 2824 with TAG Heuer’s own “Isograph” balance spring. This high-tech spring is made of carbon graphene, which is sturdier and results in a more stable rate. The latter is confirmed by the official COSC chronometer testing authority. The stainless-steel Autavia Isograph with ceramic bezel and leather strap is 42 mm in diameter and retails for $3,600.

TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph

MONTBLANC 1858 GEOSPHERE
The color gradient of the new 1858 models is most clearly visible in the 1858 Geosphere, which displays a second time zone on a subdial at 9 and also shows the Earth’s 24 full-hour standard time zones for the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The 42-mm case has a ceramic compass bezel and an engraved titanium back. The case houses Sellita’s self-winding Caliber SW300, which Montblanc has equipped with the brand’s own time-zone module. Only 1,858 pieces of this time-zone watch are available. Each costs $6,300.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere