It’s been a centuries-old trend in clothing: bespoke tailoring is all about making a singular suit or pair of shoes designed expressly for an individual. Today, as more customers are looking to express their individuality, the concept of having a custom-made watch is taking on all-new meaning. People are looking for something edgy, different and expressive of their own thoughts, hobbies or loves. But are watchmakers ready to comply?

“A personalized approach through customization is key for high-end clients, and particularly those with a penchant for haute horlogerie,” says Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith Watch Company. “We see high demand for this service, and delivering it is part of our commitment to fulfilling client expectations. We create custom pieces for clients who are not interested in wearing watches generally available to the public; they prefer unique examples of watchmaking, a way for them to be actively involved in the creation of a timepiece. And this trend is not slowing down; on the contrary, it is rising.”

Having a customized or unique watch is not a new concept. Historically speaking, many of the top watch brands made unique watches a century ago for their top clients. Easily one of the most impressive examples comes in the form of a gentlemen’s race between automobile engineer James Ward Packard and financial banker and art collector Henry Graves, each of whom would regularly turn to Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin to have the most complicated watches built for them.

For about 35 years starting in 1900, the two men commissioned watches that took years to develop and build, and that would go down in history as the world’s most complicated pieces. In fact, the Graves Super Complication pocketwatch, built by Patek Philippe and delivered in 1933, held the record as the world’s most complicated portable mechanical watch for 56 years.

This is not an isolated example. Many of today’s most iconic watch collections were initially made at the request of clients. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso released in 1931, for instance, was created at the request of polo players who wanted a watch they could wear during play that would not get damaged. The reversible concept was born and the Reverso has been a legendary watch ever since. Similarly, the IWC Portugieser was first built in 1939 at the request of two Portuguese businessmen who wanted a highly legible watch as precise as a marine chronometer for the wrist. The list goes on and on.

In the past, this type of customization was a natural way for a watch brand to grow. However, as time passed and technology progressed, brands became more reliant on machinery and tools for cutting mainplates and other components. It became more and more difficult to take on those custom orders.

Today, with nanotechnology high-tech CNC machines and some automated technology (not to mention computer-aided design), big watch brands simply can’t keep up with the request for specially made movements and watches. Just the retooling of equipment to stop producing one watch model and to start cutting parts for another model can take weeks of lost production.

“There are a lot of powerful buyers who would love to get factory-made customized watches by certain brands; they want watches nobody else can get. But most brands can’t do it because they don’t have the resources, or have so many requests,” says Paul Boutros, Head of Americas & Senior Vice President of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo auction house.

What is Customization
That is not to say that watches customized for individuals don’t get made. They do. More often than we know. Many brands don’t “kiss and tell” about their customization and piece-unique work — often because they know requests would come flooding in if word got out, or out of simple respect for the client.

So, what can be customized on a watch? It depends. On a customized watch (which can be different from a piece unique), a brand might personalize it for a client by adding, for instance, sapphires, emeralds or other gemstones to the case, lugs and even the dial. Other times they offer unique engravings or miniature paintings at the customer’s request. In some instances, top watch brands might customize a movement part with special colors or wheels.

Sometimes, a brand will customize a watch for small groups, such as a group of collectors, a military sect or some other group — in very small numbers — and nobody even knows about them until one comes to auction. “Those customized watches, though not unique, are usually very under the radar and tend to do well at auction,” says Boutros.

Often, too, some watch brands offer a specified selection of customization. Some brands may offer a special model in their collection and then let customers know that certain aspects of the model — such as case material, gemstone choice, strap or other element — can be specially made.

“We receive many, many requests each year and the thought that each of these precious pieces is so significant to its recipient makes us feel like we are helping to build memories of special moments, memories that live on with the timepiece,” says Davide Traxler, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, which offers customized details on its Hijri Perpetual Calendar watch. “Custom-made timepieces are the most fulfilling challenges we have the opportunity to meet. When a watch lover comes to us with a special request, it allows our teams to look for solutions in terms of mechanics or of finishing to satisfy a very distinctive demand.”

In a piece-unique watch — a true one-off timepiece — a brand can take customization to any level, even making an entirely new watch movement (though this is very rare).

Who Can Get A Customized Watch
As mentioned earlier, many big brands can’t stop production to customize watches for individuals, although many of the independents and smaller boutique brands try. In fact, Jacob & Co. is one that talks about its customization work for loyal clients. It has created an Astronomia watch for actor Leonardo DiCaprio’s charity and built a custom Five-Time Zone watch for designer and entrepreneur Virgil Abloh recently.

“Doing bespoke work has been a part of my company since the very beginning,” says Jacob Arabo, founder, Jacob & Co. “It’s how I set myself apart then and we continue to do this today. Nowadays, true luxury is about exclusivity and there is nothing more exclusive than having a bespoke timepiece. I love making my clients’ dreams come true, and our company is set up to create these unique pieces.”

Don’t be fooled, though, getting a brand to make something unique requires the right relationship.“Just having enough money for it isn’t enough. Most people need to have a long-standing relationship and a really interesting concept for a brand to stop work on its serially produced watches to build a one-off,” says Yoni Ben-Yehuda, head of Business Development for Material Good, when talking about pieces unique. “It is not just a money thing. It is about having a long history with the brand, a long organic, meaningful relationship.”

It takes time to build those relationships, and, in many instances, impatience results in after-market customization. However, watch pundits will urge collectors to wait and try to work directly with the brand for personalization. This way, the customized watch is made according to the quality cannons of the brand so that it will hold its value for centuries to come. It is also recorded in the brand archives and carries the brand warranty.

And, according to Boutros, customized watches done in cooperation with the brands do hold their value. In fact, several customized watches that recently sold at auction not only held their value but exceeded anticipated estimates. This includes a unique Kari Voutilainen watch with engraved and enameled case that was made especially for a client. The watch was estimated to sell for CHF 50,000 to CHF 100,000 and sold for over the value at CHF 125,000.

“It is nice to see that these unique pieces, that were the result of someone’s unique concept that was maybe the brainchild of a collector, and were a collaboration between individual and brand, are so well received,” says Boutros.

While many brands keep their customized watches top secret, others are proud of their specialized work, and sometimes seek client permission to talk about it — especially because often that customization leads to new technology and patents. Such is the case with the Vacheron Constantin Ref. 57260 that was created at the request of a consumer. Granted, that customer had to wait eight years for the piece-unique watch to be completed, but it was worth the wait. It was deemed the most complicated watch in the world when it was unveiled in 2017. And because of that special order, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled a host of new watches with concepts and complications first born of that special piece.

Independents Might Do It Better
Because they already produce watches in extremely limited numbers, certain independent watch brands may do a better job of delivering customized watches. They can take a single watchmaker aside to work on a special order or slow up their production for that special watch and nobody really notices.

Some independent brands actually prioritize custom-made pieces — understanding that this is what today’s customer is all about. Andersen Genève, for instance, has been making unique pieces since its founding in 1979. While many are part of its “Piece Unique” series of watches designed and developed by Svend Andersen and other watchmakers, some are created especially in response to client requests. (In fact, it is not unusual for brands to create unique watches of their own design that they know customers will ultimately buy. Vacheron Constantin does it in its Les Cabinotiers series, and Patek Philippe does it in its Rare Handcrafts collection.)

H. Moser & Cie. also regularly creates specialized watches for its clients but limits the number of custom pieces it makes annually. According to Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., the brand creates about 10 unique pieces per year for clients. “The type of customization is quite diverse, some just want a unique dial color to match their favorite wines, others want new techniques like painting on mother-of-pearl or a combination of techniques.” He references a unique piece made for a client as an anniversary watch for his wife that had to feature a dragon, the color blue and amethyst stones. “The result is mesmerizing. To be honest, it inspired [me], and maybe will translate into more standard models in some form in the future.”

At a more affordable level, Meerson predominantly creates unique pieces for clients (though the brand also offers “production series” watches). According to Alexandre Meerson, it was his dream to create special watches for customers, working directly with them to design something personal and lasting. “With bespoke or made-to-measure, people discover the virtues of patience, and the deep pleasure that comes with having something created just for you. They watch the project unfold with emotion that is almost childlike.”

New Methods of Personalization
Recognizing how important customizing and personalizing a timepiece is to many consumers, certain brands are trying to think outside the box. This includes turning to some not-so-traditional methods. Among them, offering digital configurators where customers can pick and choose the colors of materials, movement colors, case and bezel metals, straps and more. Armin Strom was perhaps the true pioneer in the world of configuration three years ago and has been the model others emulate. Recently, Porsche Design began offering an extensive “personalization” program, as well.

Other brands that admit their own limitations when it comes to custom work are authorizing other companies to do it for them. Such is the case with Hublot, Zenith, TAG Heuer and others who work with Bamford Watch Department — authorizing customization of certain models. Even Girard-Perregaux has started working with Bamford to allow personalized options for its beloved Cat’s Eye watches for women.

“Partnering with Bamford and offering the Cat’s Eye on his platform allows our clients to customize dials, hands, straps, colors so they can give their own twist to a timeless classic,” says Clemence Dubois, Chief Marketing Officer for Girard-Perregaux. “If we don’t have the capacity to do this ourselves, it is good to authorize customization to meet the demands of today’s clients.”

In these instances, Bamford works directly with the brands to fulfill a custom order — so that the watch is manufacture-approved, built to its exacting standards and still holds a certificate of authenticity and warranty.
Having a luxury watch that isn’t just all blinged out but that is personalized by the brand may well be the way to go. As American rapper and songwriter Jay-Z says in his song 30 Something, “I don’t got the bright watch, I got the right watch.”

How water resistant should a dive watch be?
Some manufacturers say that their watches with a water-resistance rating of 300 meters or more are suitable for recreational scuba diving. Others say the watch need have a rating of just 200     meters; still others say it can be 200 meters as long as it is specifically labeled as a dive watch. The International Standards Organization (ISO), on the other hand, stipulates that a dive watch must be water resistant to 100 meters.

All these depth ratings are significantly higher (or lower, if you will) than the depths to which a non-professional diver can dive. Recreational divers don’t go deeper than 40 meters (130 feet). Beyond that, they enter the realm of technical diving, which requires extensive training, special mixed gases to breathe, long decompression stops and special equipment.

The reason for the discrepancy: when tested for water resistance in the factory, the watch is in an artificial environment that is much different from what the watch will face during an actual dive. For the test, the watch is perfectly stationary, the gaskets brand new, and the case newly assembled, so that nothing will compromise its water resistance. The testing machinery does not account for such phenomena as additional pressure from the impact of the wearer’s jumping or diving into the water; or for temperature and pressure changes as the diver ascends and descends, which can cause the case to shrink or expand. Furthermore, a watch’s water resistance will be lessened by aging of the watch’s gaskets. Knocks and other rough treatment can cause the case’s components to fit together less tightly than they did when the watch was brand new. All these imponderables cause the companies to provide a rather large cushion of safety so that customers will not hold them responsible if their watches leak.

A screw-in crown is essential to a watch’s water resistance.

What features make a watch impermeable enough for diving?
Several features are required to make a watch impermeable enough to wear diving. In nearly all dive watches, the case has a screw-in back and crown. O-rings are used to seal the crown, caseback and crystal. The case and crystal are thicker than in a non-dive watch. Watches designed for very deep diving often have additional pressure-defying features such as domed crystals, or a steel ring for reinforcing the case (as on the Rolex Deepsea).

What are the other features of a dive watch?
Most dive watches have a rotating bezel for measuring elapsed time. They also have luminous hands and markers that can be read underwater. ISO standard 6425 requires a dive watch to have a “time-preselecting device” (a rotating bezel satisfies this requirement) and a dial that can be read in the dark at a distance of 25 cm. The ISO also says the watch must have an indicator that shows at a glance if the watch is still running. A seconds hand satisfies this requirement. Most dive watches have a steel or titanium bracelet or rubber strap, although some straps are made of nylon or various composite materials. Some dive bracelets and straps are equipped with an extension device that  enables the watch to fit over a dive-suit sleeve. Some dive watches have a helium valve and/or a depth sensor.

A bracelet with a divers’ extension can be lengthened to fit over a wetsuit.

What is a helium valve?
A device for equalizing the pressure inside and outside the watch case when the watch is worn in a diving chamber. Inside the chamber, divers breathe a gas mixture that contains helium. The helium molecules are extremely small and are hence able to penetrate the watch case, building up inside it. In the process of decompression, the pressure inside the chamber decreases more rapidly than the pressure inside the case. This can cause the watch crystal to pop off. To prevent that, some watches have a valve on the side of the case that allows helium to escape from the case during decompression, making the pressure inside and outside the case the same.

Do many dive watches have helium valves?
Most dive watches do not have helium valves because they are of use only in saturation diving, when a diver spends time in a diving chamber.

A helium valve prevents the watch crystal from popping off when the diver is in a decompression chamber.

Why do the rotating bezels on most dive watches turn in only one direction?
Most dive bezels turn in one direction only, counterclockwise, so that the bezel cannot be accidentally knocked off position in the clockwise direction and thus understate the elapsed time (usually the total dive time) being measured. Some watches solve this problem by using inner rotating bezels that cannot be rotated accidentally.

Many bezels have only the first 15 minutes marked individually. Why?
This is a dive-watch convention that goes back to the mid-1950s (it probably started with the Rolex Submariner). It is unclear what purpose the markers were originally meant to serve. An early Submariner advertisement shows a diver setting the bezel to measure total dive time, then using the minutes markers for a precise reading of his descent time. Why this information is useful is not explained (and standard diving procedures don’t require it).

An oft-tendered explanation for the markers is that they are used to time decompression stops, but this explanation is problematic. The diver would have to reset the bezel at the beginning of each stop. The bezel could not therefore be used to measure total dive time, the main purpose of the bezel.

One possible explanation for the markers: 15 minutes is the approximate amount of time a diver can spend at 130 feet, the maximum depth for recreational diving, without making decompression stops. The markers might have been intended to alert him to that limit and help him read his remaining bottom time precisely. This theory is supported by some versions of the Omega Seamaster, which had gradations for the first 20 minutes (a diver can spend about 20 minutes at 110 feet, close to the depth limit). On the Seamaster 200, the 20-minute segment was painted fire-engine red, possibly to warn the diver of the hazard of staying deep for too long.

Dive watches have luminous hands and markers that can be read under water.

How do depth-gauge watches work?
In most, there is a sensor (typically a membrane or diaphragm) on the side of the case that is distorted by water pressure. The degree of distortion is then converted into feet or meters of depth and displayed by hands on the watch face. Oris, in its Aquis model, uses another type of depth gauge: it has a tubule around the perimeter of the crystal with a tiny opening to the outside. More or less water enters the tubule, depending on the depth, and the diver can read the depth in meters on the scale next to the tubule.

How many mechanical dive watches have depth gauges?
Just a handful. Aside from the aforementioned Oris Aquis Depth Gauge, other mechanical watches with depth gauges include the Blancpain X Fathoms, the IWC Aquatimer Deep Three, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Pro Geographic and the Panerai Luminor 1950 Pangaea Depth Gauge (which  despite its mechanical movement has an electronic depth gauge).

Some watch depth gauges record the deepest point of a dive. Why?
There are three reasons. First, for safety’s sake, the dive-time limits prescribed by dive tables assume the diver spends his entire dive time at the deepest point of the dive. To use the dive table, the  diver must therefore know his deepest point. Second, it is a generally accepted rule of diving that the diver should do the deepest part of the dive first. This gives him the maximum amount of time to off-gas the relatively high amount of nitrogen he absorbed at the bottom of the dive (the lower you go, the more nitrogen dissolves in your blood). Third, many diving experts recommend that, even in no-decompression diving, which doesn’t require decompression stops, the diver make a so-called “safety” stop of one minute halfway between the lowest point of the dive and the surface in order to off-gas nitrogen.

A handful of mechanical dive watches, like the IWC Aquatimer Deep Three (above) and Blancpain X Fathoms (below), offer a special extra feature: a depth gauge.

Which mechanical watch has the deepest water-resistance rating?
The CX Swiss Military 20,000 feet. The watch, made of titanium, is nearly 3 cm thick; the crystal alone is 1 cm thick.

In this age of dive computers, are dive watches necessary?
Not really. Divers sometimes take them as backups to their dive computers, should the computers run out of power during a dive, but now that wrist-worn dive computers are widely available and reasonably priced, some divers use these as backups to their console-style computers (or wear two wristwatch-style computers). If a diver does use a watch as a backup, he also needs other backup equipment that supplies information  given by a dive computer: a depth gauge, pressure gauge and dive tables.

Then why do so many people buy dive watches?
For several reasons. Many people like the sense of security that a high water-resistance rating provides. If a watch is safe to wear on a deep dive, they reason, surely it is guaranteed to survive a swim or a snorkeling excursion. Others like a dive watch’s other features, such as a rotating bezel or highly luminous hands and markers. For many dive-watch wearers, looks are the main draw: sporty, technical-looking watches are all the rage.

Dive watches have luminous hands and markers that can be read under water.

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE POLARIS MEMOVOX

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox (above) and the original Memovox Polaris from 1968 (below)

A sporty and elegant wristwatch is a good choice to wear on a trendy beach. And the alarm function assures that a night owl won’t forget an evening rendezvous. The alarm also functioned underwater on the original watch, which Jaeger-LeCoultre premiered in 1965. A variation with a sporty design (left) debuted three years later. It served as the inspiration for the new model, which arrived in 2018. Stainless steel, 42 mm, manufacture Caliber 956, automatic, limited series of 1,000 watches, $12,600.

BREITLING NAVITIMER

The Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 46 (above) and the original Navitimer from 1952 (below)

The Navitimer enjoys cult status not only among pilots, but also with their earthbound counterparts. Introduced in 1952, this watch also represents an epoch when increasing air traffic revolutionized travel. Numerous new versions without a slide rule on the bezel and even without a stopwatch function debuted in 2018. But classical model variations with both of these functions, such as the Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 46 (shown), are still available for Breitling fans. They differ from the original Navitimer mainly due to their larger size and contrasting-colored subdials. Stainless steel, 46 mm, manufacture Caliber B01, automatic, chronometer, $8,215.

ROLEX GMT-MASTER II

Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel (above) and the original Rolex GMT-Master from 1955 (below)

Thanks to an additional 24-hour hand and its corresponding rotatable bezel, this Rolex model is the epitome of a traveler’s watch. The main hour hand wasn’t separately adjustable until the debut of the GMT-Master II in 1982. The two hour hands were inseparably linked when the original model premiered in 1955, which meant that if the wearer wanted his watch to show the time in a second zone, he had to turn the rotatable bezel until it matched the additional hour hand. Nicknamed “Pepsi,” the coveted steel version with its blue-and-red bezel celebrated its comeback in 2018. Stainless steel, ceramic bezel, 40 mm, manufacture Caliber 3285, automatic, chronometer, $9,250.

IWC PORTUGIESER

The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” (above) and the original Portugieser from 1939 (below)

Elegance spanning generations: IWC celebrated a milestone anniversary in 2018 with the latest version of this icon. The new Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” is inspired by the large, straightforward, steel watches that IWC delivered to Portuguese importers in 1939. The elegant 41.5-mm case surrounded various dial options. Rose gold, 43 mm, manufacture Caliber 59215 with power-reserve display on the back, hand-wound, $18,800.

SEIKO 1968 AUTOMATIC DIVER’S RE-CREATION LIMITED EDITION

Seiko Automatic Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition (Ref. SLA025, above) and the original model from 1968 (below)

Fifty years after the debut of its first divers’ watch with a high-frequency caliber, this Japanese manufacturer pays homage to the timepiece with the release of Reference SLA025. The manufacture caliber completes 36,000 semi-oscillations per hour. The fast-paced movement and the water-tightness to 300 meters are as exciting as the new design: it’s nearly identical to the styling of the original. Hardened stainless steel, 44.8 mm, manufacture Caliber 8L55, automatic, limited edition of 1,500 watches, $5,400.

TUDOR PELAGOS

The Tudor Pelagos (above) and the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner from 1969 (below)

The styling of this instrument for professional divers traces its ancestry directly to the Oyster Prince Submariner from 1969. This model premiered the so-called “snowflake” hands with their eye-catching rectangles, which assured that the hour hand wouldn’t be mistaken for the minutes hand. Meanwhile, the steady progress of the luminous rectangle on the seconds hand instantly reassured a diver that his watch was still running in the dark depths. The Pelagos remains watertight to 500 meters, is equipped with a helium valve, and lets divers choose between a rubber strap and a titanium bracelet. Titanium, ceramic bezel, 42 mm, manufacture Caliber MT5612, automatic, chronometer, $4,400.

Polaris Geographic

Aptly named “Geographic”, the world time function has become a signature complication of the Swiss manufacture. Rather than simply displaying the hour of a second time zone, the ingenious mechanism also provides a 24-hour day/night indication and, in an aperture at the bottom of the dial, displays the name of a city corresponding to each of the 24 major time zones, with those observing daylight saving time clearly marked. When a city is selected, the corresponding time is automatically displayed. Thanks to a stop-second function, this second time zone is accurate to the hour, minute and second.

The Polaris Geographic also introduces a new color to the watch family: ocean gray. This shade is reminiscent of the ocean on a cloudy day. The color is applied in a double gradient and finished with 35 layers of lacquer. The displays are arranged in a pleasingly asymmetrical layout, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock and the power reserve indicator in the upper left-hand sector of the dial. Orange accents draw the eye to key information points, contrasting with the dark background.

The stainless steel case is water-resistant to 100 meters. It measures 42 mm in diameter and 11.54 mm thick. Its exhibition caseback reveals the finely finished automatic caliber 939 movement, which has a power reserve of 70 hours.

Jaeger-LeCoultre provides a pair of interchangeable black textured rubber and blue-gray canvas straps for the Polaris Geographic. It retails for $16,100.

Polaris Date

Launched in 2018, the Polaris Date is the epitome of sporty elegance and unmistakable style. Water-resistant to 200 meters, the 42mm steel case features two crowns, one to set the time and the other to rotate the signature inner diving bezel. On this three-hand plus date layout, the different finishes – sunray brushed in the center and grained on the hour scale – really come into their own on the new ocean gray gradient dial.

Powered by the new generation of the automatic Caliber 899 with a 70-hour power reserve, the watch is equipped with a black rubber strap.

Pricing for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date is marked at $11,000.

Polaris Perpetual Calendar

Last but not least, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar gets an update in the form of a green gradient dial. The subtle shade is very elegant and looks great with the 42mm pink gold case. First launched in 2022 in stainless steel with a blue dial, this haute-horlogerie complication displays the correct date until 2100, automatically adapting to the different lengths of the months and even to leap years.

With an emphasis on symmetry and legibility, three slightly recessed sub-dials display the date, day and month, accompanied by a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock that indicates the age of the moon as well as its phases in both hemispheres. This amazing mechanical long-term memory is orchestrated by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 868, an automatic movement with a power reserve of up to 70 hours. Its magnificent details are brought to life through the exhibition case back.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar comes with a green rubber strap and a black alligator leather strap.

Pricing is marked at $52,200.

To learn more, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre, here.

1910s
Many soldiers in World War I preferred a quickly readable watch on the wrist to a timepiece safely tucked away in a pocket of their uniform jacket. One consequence of this was that after the Great War ended, the wristwatch became popular among men, many of whom had formerly belittled it as a feminine accessory. Wristwatches worn by soldiers on the front lines were typically equipped with protective grids to cover their crystals, which were not yet shatterproof.

Waltham World War I Military Watch

1920s
Wristwatches emerged as a genre in their own right during the Roaring ’20s, and Louis Cartier was among the trailblazers. He sketched his first Cartier Tank in 1917. The model was first produced in 1919 and it was given its elongated “cintrée” shape in 1921.

Cartier Tank Cintré

1930s
The Art Deco style also influenced the design of wristwatches. With a rectangular case engraved with parallel lines at its upper and lower margins, the Reverso was a child of its era. LeCoultre was one of its producers.

LeCoultre Reverso

1940s
With the outbreak of World War II, the military again strongly influenced design in the ’40s. Pilots’ watches like the Big Pilot’s Watch, which IWC first produced for the German Air Force in 1940, were easy to read thanks to their big cases and black dials. They also had easily graspable crowns that pilots could operate while wearing gloves and their often extra-long straps enabled airmen to buckle these watches around their thighs.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch°

1950s
Hardly any model has influenced the watch world as strongly – and has been copied as often – as Rolex’s Submariner. Its debut in 1953 inaugurated the era of round, watertight, sporty, self-winding watches.

Rolex Submariner 1953

1960s
The ’60s were the epoch of outer space. This bold adventure was embodied in wristwatches like Omega’s Speedmaster Professional, the first watch on the moon. Buzz Aldrin wore the Reference 105.012 when the Apollo 11 mission landed on the lunar surface in 1969.

Omega Speedmaster Professional

1970s
Quartz watches dominated the ’70s. Their glowing digital indicators initially relied on reddish LEDs (light emitting diodes) and later on LCDs (liquid crystal displays). The Chronosplit chronograph, which Heuer launched in 1975, was equipped with both.

Heuer Chronosplit

1980s
“Fun” was the name of the game for buying and wearing watches in the ’80s. Thanks to its incredible diversity of motifs, the plastic Swatch watch persuaded millions of people to buy watches not primarily to read the time, but to have fun and be able to quickly switch from one look and color scheme to another.

Swatch Keith Haring Watch

1990s
The mechanical watch began its renaissance in the ’90s and horological technology and complications basked in the limelight. But there were also innovations in design, for example, the Lange 1 by A. Lange & Söhne: its off-center dial arrangement would later be adopted by other manufacturers.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

2000s
Scarcely any new design in the ’00s could rival the success of Hublot’s Big Bang. Its theme was the combination of widely diverse materials. This mix was made possible by the structure of the case, which combined more than 50 individual parts. The large number of limited editions also contributed toward making Hublot synonymous with bold color, diversity and joie de vivre.

Hublot Big Bang

2010s
The trend toward revealing the inner workings of a watch by skeletonizing the dial had already begun in the ’00s, but dials were often eliminated altogether after 2010. Richard Mille ranks among the pioneers of this new openness.

Richard Mille RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1