Martin Green/WatchTime: A watch brand founded in Hong Kong by a Dutch couple turned into a trailblazing Swiss manufacture that was bought by a major Japanese player (Citizen). You were along for most of the ride. How was that, and how does it define what Frederique Constant is now?

Niels Eggerding/Frederique Constant: Working with the founders from 2012 was an incredibly enriching experience. I learned a great deal about building a watch brand from its original founders as a family-owned company. When Citizen acquired us in 2016, it was crucial for the founders to ensure continuity, preserving the brand’s DNA and entrepreneurial family spirit. They appointed me to facilitate this transition with Citizen. This collaboration allowed us to smoothly move from a family-owned company to a larger organization. In my view, it was a wise decision for Frederique Constant, as it helped maintain the brand’s essence.

The story of Frederique Constant reads almost like a fairytale, also because it all happened in record time. What has been key into the fast development of the brand, in your opinion?

I believe the key factors are a few crucial elements. To move quickly, it’s essential to have a highly aligned team across development, construction, technical areas, and watchmaking. When developing a manufacture calibre, speed is important, but the final quality is paramount. Being a young brand, we always plan three years ahead, determining what calibre we aim to develop each year and assessing if our team can handle it. For me, the brand’s rapid development hinges on having the right people around you and maintaining a clear, forward-thinking strategy.

Frederique Constant has an impressive array of manufacture movements. How important is it for Frederique Constant that you make your own movements?

It’s incredibly important for us. As a relatively young company, establishing the reputation and credibility enjoyed by larger, longstanding brands is crucial. The quickest route to gaining this credibility is through creating our own movements. This decision dates back to 2004 when we recognized the risks associated with relying solely on external suppliers. We saw the potential vulnerability if this supply chain were disrupted, so producing our own movements became not just a necessity but a strategic imperative for differentiation and long-term sustainability.

Frederique Constant is now owned by Citizen. How does that influence the brand?

The influence has been minimal. Over the past eight years, our main benefit has been expanded distribution and sales opportunities. Markets such as the US, Italy, UK, Japan, and China, where Citizen operates, have allowed us to establish dedicated business units for the Frederique Constant and Alpina brands, leveraging the group’s resources. This strategic alignment has been the most significant advantage. In today’s competitive landscape, significant growth often requires being part of a financially strong group, which enhances our ability to thrive and innovate.

As CEO, what do you consider your main task at Frederique Constant?

My primary task is to articulate a clear vision and strategy for the company. This involves motivating and energizing our teams, listening attentively to our consumers, and continually refining our strategy based on their feedback. It’s a continuous cycle for me, starting with a strong vision. The three key pillars are product excellence, nurturing our talented teams, and understanding and responding to consumer needs. Managing consumer expectations, ensuring our products meet their desires, and empowering our teams to innovate and effectively communicate our offerings are the essential components of my role.

Both Frederique Constant and sister-brand Alpina exhibit at Watches & Wonders. How important is this for the brand to be there?

Participating in Watches & Wonders is crucial for us as a watch brand. It’s the premier global event where consumers, retailers, and press converge for a dedicated week immersed in everything related to watches. For brands like ours, which are still growing, being present allows us to connect with the right audience— consumers who appreciate our values and retailers who help communicate our brand’s identity and opportunities. It’s an invaluable platform to showcase our innovations and strengthen our presence in the industry

The (watch) world has changed quite a bit since Frederique Constant was founded. How do you keep track of its pulse, and ensure that your offerings are in line with current times (or perhaps a little bit beyond)?

In my role, listening to consumers is very important. I travel extensively, as do my teams, to engage directly with consumers and understand their evolving needs. It’s crucial to not only meet their expectations but also to innovate beyond them. This requires some degree of risk-taking in product development—introducing offerings that align with our brand’s DNA while also anticipating future trends. It’s about maintaining an entrepreneurial mindset, staying flexible, and continuously adapting to the pulse of the market

Can you tell us something about the company that is not common knowledge, but that you feel deserves more attention?

I think what sets us apart is our unique company culture. We embody a direct Dutch mentality within a multicultural team environment. Our organization is remarkably flat, fostering direct communication that not only attracts but also deeply engages and motivates our people to continually strive and work diligently. This culture is essential for our survival and success. Moreover, a crucial aspect that often surprises people is our status as a true manufacture. We proudly produce 33 in-house calibers right here in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. This commitment to manufacturing excellence is central to our identity, especially considering our strategy to offer high-quality timepieces at affordable prices. It’s something we constantly emphasize because, despite our youthfulness in the industry, we are making significant strides in watchmaking that deserve recognition.

For more info, visit Frederique Constant, here

Launched in 2006, the Citizen Promaster Dive — whose case and dial were directly inspired by the largest member of the oceanic dolphin family (Orcinus orca) — quickly became a fan favorite, having successfully redesigned the design elements of a dive watch almost completely. Now, Citizen has updated its perhaps most modern tool watch with new features, including a redesigned, more ergonomic case, an improved bezel, and a new black rubber strap. Available with a blue (Ref. BN0231-01L) or black dial (Ref. BN0230-04E) or as an all-black special edition (Ref. BN0235-01E), the new Promaster Dive picks up where the original watch left off, paying homage to one of the most beloved animals in the sea.

The new Promaster Dive, much like the 2006 edition, echoes the orca whale’s black and white livery in its bezel and dial design. Housed in an ergonomic, 46-mm stainless-steel case whose gentle curves mimic those of the orca’s body and its sharply contrasted black-and-white colors, it features a redesigned, unidirectional stainless steel and aluminum bezel insert whose outer coin edge provides grip, and whose profile sits well above the watch to protect the convex mineral crystal from scratches. A luminous pip at 12 o’clock ensures easy measuring of elapsed time while underwater, the screwdown crown and solid case back provide up to 200 meters of ISO-certified water resistance. After all, orcas occasionally dive several hundred meters to catch their prey.

The bezel is designed with professional divers in mind — its design, which features metal “tabs” at each 5-minute demarcation, further recalls the orca’s black and white jaw as it emerges from the water. This theme continues on the dial, which features elliptical, white hour indexes in alternating small and large sizes, plus a pop of red at the 12 o’clock LumiNova marker. Joined by rounded arrow hands that also imitate the orca body’s shape, the indices are filled with LumiNova, making for a seriously bright package that glows brightly below or above the waves. The orangeframed minute hand and a fully graduated rehaut are particularly handy underwater, allowing a diver to track elapsed time or decompression stops.

The movement is the Eco-Drive Caliber E168, a light-powered caliber that provides a 180-day power reserve on a full charge. A solid, stainless-steel case back with a printed orca whale motif protects the movement from water, while a redesigned, black rubber PU strap mimics the design of the orca’s dorsal fin (an individual orca can often be identified from its dorsal fin and saddle patch). Both black- (BN0230-04E) and blue-dial (BN0231-01L) versions ship in SCUBA tank-inspired packaging, like the Fujitsubo. Even more living up to the “blackfish” theme is the slightly more expensive new Promaster Dive (BN0235-01E), that is available as part of a special-edition box set: Featuring a black-coated case, a black bezel, a matching black dial and a black PU rubber strap, it comes in a signature, neon yellow Citizen “tackle box” with a matching LED dive light. Waterproof to 60 meters, the shock-resistant light features 400 lumens of brightness, two modes, a magnetic switch, a stainless-steel head, an aluminum body and a matching wrist strap.

Perhaps even more importantly, the latest generation of Promaster dive watches continues to be a fitting tribute to a highly intelligent, charismatic animal that inspires people around the world to “protect what they love.” Therefore, as part of Citizen’s continuing commitment to 1 percent for the Planet, from June 8-9, 100 percent of the proceeds from sales of Promaster Dive collection watches purchased on the brand’s U.S. website went towards supporting the marine conservation activities of Conservation International (CI), an international NGO that is working to achieve a sustainable society through environmental conservation.

To learn more about Citizen, click here, and to subscribe to the WatchTime print magazine, click here.    

A Sixty-Plus Year History

The origins of the manufacture date back to 1959, when that year Citizen Watch built a movement factory in the eponymous town of Miyota in Nagano, central Japan. Operating under Citizen in the years prior, the Miyota brand was officially launched in 1980, one year later with the fledgling manufacture releasing the Caliber 2035 analog quartz movement. The new mechanism quickly posted world record production figures, being followed by the larger Caliber 2000 Series in the years to come which have helped the brand create an extensive product lineup, which was followed by the Caliber 6P Series in 1989 and the Caliber 0S Chronograph Series in 1992.

In addition to its proud history of developing high quality quartz timepieces, the brand has also been continuously producing mechanical movements for over thirty years. In that time, the Cal.82 Series established itself as a de facto industry standard, while the Cal.90 Series has gained a distinct appeal for its range of ultra-thin premium mechanical movements.

The Genesis of the Cal.90 Series

The story of Miyota’s transformative Cal.90 series begins not in boardrooms, but on the engineering floors where a legacy of precision has been nurtured. Debuting with the launch of the Caliber 9015 in 2009, the launch of the series was Miyota’s bold response to a decades-long hiatus in their mechanical movement innovation, following the original launch era of the Cal.82 series.

Designed from the ground up with a vision to marry thinness with robust functionality, the Cal.90 series challenged existing norms. This was no ordinary upgrade— it was a leap towards creating a true premium mechanical caliber accessible not just to luxury brands, but to a wider market.

Taking the 90S5 as an example, Miyota was able to achieve a slim profile of 3.9mm in thickness, while maintaining the durability the brand is known for— a feat which required reimagining production techniques and precision down to the micron level. This meticulous attention to detail is what sets both the 90S5 and the wider series apart in a crowded market.

Breaking New Ground with the Caliber 9075 GMT

Fast forward to 2021, and Miyota unveiled one of their latest and most significant modern creations in the Caliber 9075. This mechanical GMT movement was designed for the true traveler, featuring a True GMT functionality that allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently— a rarity in movements available for external sale.

The creation of Caliber 9075 was about more than just adding a feature through the travel complication, but also about effortless enhancing the user experience. The movement helps cater to frequent travelers who need reliable functionality across time zones, but prefer a watch that remains elegant and slim.

Miyota — More Than a Movement

Opting for a Miyota movement, especially in the Cal.90 series, ensures a mechanism is as reliable as it is meticulously crafted. For example, as an additional option, the brand will make use of heat-blued screws which not only beautify, but further enhance the functionality of each movement. The patented technology for these screws ensures the opportunity for degradation is minimized over time, while the deep color and functionality of the parts remains vibrant for countless years to come.

As Miyota forges ahead, innovating with every year, they do so with a profound respect for their heritage and an unwavering focus on the future needs of watch enthusiasts around the globe. This journey of movement precision is not just about maintaining rigorous standards— it’s a continuous exploration of how every second can be made meaningful, a narrative that Miyota crafts with care and precision.

To learn more, visit Miyota, here.

All three models are presented in Super Titanium cases and coated with Duratect. While Super Titanium is 40 percent lighter than stainless steel, Duratect surface technology increases hardness. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the cases have an angular shape and alternate polished and brushed surfaces.

The dials are protected by sapphire crystals. A new integrated bracelet with brushed, tapered Y links and a short folding clasp completes the casual-sporty look and feel.

The Forza Chrono is available in white, light blue, and salmon color ways, with recessed subdials in contrasting black and a tachymeter scale on the periphery which allows for measuring speed. There is also a date indication between 4 and 5 o’clock. The case measures 42.5mm wide and 11.5 mm thick and houses the Eco-Drive Cal. B620. Powered by any light source, it runs with exceptional accuracy for up to 9 months on a full charge. Pricing is marked at $625.

To learn more, visit Citizen, here.

The Forza Three-hand is offered in blue, green and white dials with a day and date display at 3 o’clock. Powered by the Eco-Drive caliber Cal. J800, which has the same power reserve as that of the chronograph model, the case measures 39 mm in diameter and 10 mm thick. It is priced at $495.

To learn more, visit Citizen, here.

Green, white and blue dials are available for the Forza Mechanical Trio. Powered by the automatic caliber 8213 with a 48-hour power reserve, they offer a subsidiary seconds display at the rather unusual position between 4 and 5 o’clock. A date display at 3 o’clock is complemented by a framed window. The case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 11 mm thick, and is fitted with a sapphire crystal case back. Pricing is marked at $625.

To learn more, visit Citizen, here.

As many watch enthusiasts are aware, the history of aviation and horology have long been linked through the necessity of a pilot needing to know the time immediately while in the air. Through this, the pilot’s watch has developed over the decades to become the recognizable icon it is today. The flieger triangle at 12 o’clock, the oversized case and crown, and the development of lume have all been tied to catering to a pilot’s needs while in flight so it was only a matter of time before watch brands embraced the altimeter. In this visit to the WatchTime Archives, we look at five brands that have done just that in recent years. 

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter

In 2014, Oris tapped its flight heritage to release the Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter. The watch has two crowns: the crown at 2 o’clock adjusts time and date, while the crown at 4 o’clock operates the altimeter. To activate the altimeter, you must unscrew the second crown into position one, indicated by a red ring. At position 2, the altimeter can be set. Once this is completed, the watch illustrates the altitude through the yellow indicator and the air pressure via the red indicator. The altitude scale is read through the outer dial ring and can measure the altitude up to 15,000 feet. The air pressure scale is located between the altimeter scale and the central dial. The 47-mm watch uses the Oris Caliber 733, which is a modified Sellita SW200 movement. The watch costs $3,800 on a textile strap and $4,100 on a bracelet.

Favre Leuba Bivouac 9000

In 2017, Favre-Leuba marked its 280th anniversary with the Bivouac 9000, a mechanical watch that boasts the capability of measuring altitudes up to 9,000 meters (29,527 feet) above sea level. This isn’t exactly new territory for Favre-Leuba, as the Bivouac 9000 is the direct descendant of a 1962 wristwatch the brand released that was the first timepiece that could measure the altitude up to 3,000 meters. The 48-mm titanium case houses an aneroid barometer, which allows the watch to indicate the elevation at a given point by reacting to the changing air pressure surrounding it. The central red altimeter hand indicates altitude gain in 50-meter steps and goes up to 3,000 meters in one rotation. Once the watch has completed three such rotations, you know that you’ve reached an altitude of 9,000 meters The price is CHF 7,500, or approximately $8,000.

Casio PRG-650Y-1

Casio is a popular choice for many daredevils that want extreme functionality without compromising on good looks. Last September, the Japanese brand expanded its Pro-Trek collection to add the PRG650Y-1 and PRG650YBE-3, two new timepieces that include a magnetic sensor for compass readings, a pressure sensor that functions as an altimeter and a thermosensor for temperature. The two analog-digital watches also have stopwatch capabilities, up to five daily alarms, water resistance up to 100 m, a worldtimer, and a countdown timer. This kind of souped-up gadgetry is what Casio is best known for and it doesn’t disappoint here. Both watches are powered by Casio’s Tough Solar Power technology that eliminates the need to change a battery. It’s worth noting that every watch in Casio’s Pro-Trek series includes an altimeter. The PRG650Y-1 is available for $320 and the PRG650YBE-3 for $340.

Citizen Promaster Altichron

Citizen’s main focus in 2017 was on ultra-rugged watches that spare no expense. Along with a diving watch that can reach a depth of 1,000 m, the Japanese brand introduced the Promaster Altichron which has an altimeter that reaches up to 32,000 feet. Citizen chose to display the time and functions in analog rather than digital form to simplify the information available. The various functions include the altimeter, a compass, a power reserve, and a date window. Like all Eco-Drive watches, the Promaster Altichron is powered by light and it has a rate of plus or minus 15 seconds per month. You can find it for $550.

Bremont U-22

It’s no secret that Nick and Giles English, the British founders of Bremont, are quite fond of flying. At Baselworld 2015, the young brand unveiled the U-22, which contained a date window inspired by an altimeter. Yes, this technically doesn’t have a functioning altimeter but it’s a great looking watch that has been flight tested by the brand up to 100,000 feet for over 12 hours in the air and to temperatures as low as -50 degrees. The watch also features a bi-directional rotating bezel that has been altered to form a compass quadrant, often used in weather mapping. The Bremont U-22 uses the COSC-certified caliber 12 ¼ BE-36AE and has a 38-hour power reserve. It costs $5,195.