A snake on the wrist is better than two in the bush – especially if it’s made of precious materials, tells the time and comes from the house of Bulgari. The flexible Serpenti watch coils around the wearer’s wrist just like a real snake. The rounded triangular shape at one end is both the watch case and the head of the reptile.

Bulgari: The Serpenti Spiga Ceramic combines black ceramic, rose gold and diamonds. Quartz movement. $12,400.

Bulgari introduced the first Serpenti watches in the 1940s. Dangerous creatures have long fascinated watch designers. Cartier has a tradition of featuring predators – the panther has occupied a fixed place in the repertoire of this famous Parisian watch and jewelry house since 1914.

A wildcat made of precious metal can threaten the bank account of anyone who intends to buy one – and a panther would not be such a thrilling watchmate if its elegance were not paired with the ferocity of the predator’s face. The Révélation, a panther watch from Cartier, artfully reveals its charms thanks to a spectacular hourglass feature. Moving the dial causes tiny gold beads to fall from top to bottom to slowly form the panther’s face, and gradually have it vanish again.

Cartier: The Révélation contains tiny gold beads that come together to form a panther’s face. Rose gold with diamonds. Hand-wound Caliber 430 MC. $112,000.

Another wild feline inspired the imagination of the designers at Jaquet Droz. A delicate miniature portrait of a lion’s face is painted on the enamel dial of the Petite Heure Minute Lion in exquisite detail, within the tiniest space. Jaquet Droz celebrates the talents of fine crafts-men who make each one of the 28 pieces a unique specimen.

Jaquet Droz: The Petite Heure Minute Lion in rose gold features a painted lion gazing out from the dial. Automatic movement 2653.P. $32,200.

The wolf on the dial of the ArtyA Wolf Tourbillon 1/1 has an even more aggressive look. Belgian artist Bram Ramon is behind the complex decoration of this one-off piece, with a dial that features floral ornamentation and an impressive wolf’s head, combined with engraving work and miniature sculpture. The Wolf watch design – with its medieval touches and biker style – is a potent mixture of rock and roll, mythology and fine craftsmanship, a typical combination for ArtyA, enhanced here with the addition of a flying tourbillon. The wild wolf makes this Swiss timepiece into an expressive piece of jewelry for tough guys.

ArtyA: The Wolf Tourbillon 1/1 is one-of- a-kind with a steel case, gold inlays and an exclusive ArtyA hand- wind movement with flying tourbillon. $180,000.

An animal that evokes fear and fascination was transformed into a timepiece by the creative Geneva watch brand MB&F, in collaboration with the clockmaker L’Epée 1839. The spider clock Arachnophobia is designed as a table or wall clock – too large to be worn on the wrist. But the godmother of the eight-legged metal clock creature, whose body contains the timepiece, is many times larger. The Arachnophobia was inspired by the 9-meter-tall spider sculpture “Maman,” created by French-American artist Louise Bourgeois, which exudes a feeling that’s both protective and threatening. The Arachnophobia embodies the fine line that exists between the macabre and elegance.

MB&F and L’Epée 1839: The Arachnophobia in black aluminum. The eight-day movement is wound with a key. CHF 14,500.

1910s
Many soldiers in World War I preferred a quickly readable watch on the wrist to a timepiece safely tucked away in a pocket of their uniform jacket. One consequence of this was that after the Great War ended, the wristwatch became popular among men, many of whom had formerly belittled it as a feminine accessory. Wristwatches worn by soldiers on the front lines were typically equipped with protective grids to cover their crystals, which were not yet shatterproof.

Waltham World War I Military Watch

1920s
Wristwatches emerged as a genre in their own right during the Roaring ’20s, and Louis Cartier was among the trailblazers. He sketched his first Cartier Tank in 1917. The model was first produced in 1919 and it was given its elongated “cintrée” shape in 1921.

Cartier Tank Cintré

1930s
The Art Deco style also influenced the design of wristwatches. With a rectangular case engraved with parallel lines at its upper and lower margins, the Reverso was a child of its era. LeCoultre was one of its producers.

LeCoultre Reverso

1940s
With the outbreak of World War II, the military again strongly influenced design in the ’40s. Pilots’ watches like the Big Pilot’s Watch, which IWC first produced for the German Air Force in 1940, were easy to read thanks to their big cases and black dials. They also had easily graspable crowns that pilots could operate while wearing gloves and their often extra-long straps enabled airmen to buckle these watches around their thighs.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch°

1950s
Hardly any model has influenced the watch world as strongly – and has been copied as often – as Rolex’s Submariner. Its debut in 1953 inaugurated the era of round, watertight, sporty, self-winding watches.

Rolex Submariner 1953

1960s
The ’60s were the epoch of outer space. This bold adventure was embodied in wristwatches like Omega’s Speedmaster Professional, the first watch on the moon. Buzz Aldrin wore the Reference 105.012 when the Apollo 11 mission landed on the lunar surface in 1969.

Omega Speedmaster Professional

1970s
Quartz watches dominated the ’70s. Their glowing digital indicators initially relied on reddish LEDs (light emitting diodes) and later on LCDs (liquid crystal displays). The Chronosplit chronograph, which Heuer launched in 1975, was equipped with both.

Heuer Chronosplit

1980s
“Fun” was the name of the game for buying and wearing watches in the ’80s. Thanks to its incredible diversity of motifs, the plastic Swatch watch persuaded millions of people to buy watches not primarily to read the time, but to have fun and be able to quickly switch from one look and color scheme to another.

Swatch Keith Haring Watch

1990s
The mechanical watch began its renaissance in the ’90s and horological technology and complications basked in the limelight. But there were also innovations in design, for example, the Lange 1 by A. Lange & Söhne: its off-center dial arrangement would later be adopted by other manufacturers.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

2000s
Scarcely any new design in the ’00s could rival the success of Hublot’s Big Bang. Its theme was the combination of widely diverse materials. This mix was made possible by the structure of the case, which combined more than 50 individual parts. The large number of limited editions also contributed toward making Hublot synonymous with bold color, diversity and joie de vivre.

Hublot Big Bang

2010s
The trend toward revealing the inner workings of a watch by skeletonizing the dial had already begun in the ’00s, but dials were often eliminated altogether after 2010. Richard Mille ranks among the pioneers of this new openness.

Richard Mille RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1

Art Deco, as a descriptor, has become a little overused in the luxe-focused world of watch marketing. Too often, in the absence of a better term, the style is used as a catch-all word for any blend of geometric forms and vintage air. While the verbiage has no doubt worn away its welcome for many, it still maintains a larger-than-life presence in the worlds of art, design, and architecture; in fact, it’s difficult to walk the streets of New York City without seeing its influence on the surrounding skyscrapers. In watch design, the term – as buzzy as it may be – lends itself to the bold usage of atypical dial layouts with chunky numerals and faded hues. When used correctly, it can bring a dash of artistic and aesthetic merit to the wrist, but when used incorrectly, its significance melts away. Here, we’ve collected a number of recent watch releases that approach the usage of Art Deco styling with a great deal of respect and end up creating some very attractive timepieces.

Tissot

The Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde made its debut at Baselworld 2018 and was the hit of the show for the accessibly priced Swatch Group brand. The brushed finish on the dial, the combination of the large, printed Arabic numerals (just look at 9 o’clock!) and vintage Tissot logo, and the sharp, faceted lugs that contoured nicely on the wrist, all directly appealed to the enthusiast mindset. The price at $995, falling right in line with the value that Tissot is known for, only served to sweeten the deal. The design references the brand’s historic production of watches that featured special antimagnetic properties during the 1930s and ’40s. Tissot was one of the first brands to bring wristwatches featuring anti-magnetism to market, and the watches were generally known for their clean dial configuration, steel cases, thin hands, quality movement, and price accessibility. Inside the watch is a manually winding ETA 6498-1.

Panerai

As avid Paneristi are aware, today’s powerhouse Panerai watch brand had its humble beginnings in a retail watch store in Florence, founded by the Panerai family in 1860. As inspiration for the latest version of its Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio – 47mm, the company reached back to that historical early era, in which the family-owned Orologerie Suizzera (precursor to the modern Officine Panerai) sold not only wristwatches and pocket watches but also table clocks and pendulum clocks. It is a particular example of this last item that provided the template for the Art Deco dials of the two watches released last fall. The dial of a pendulum clock displayed on the first floor of Panerai’s Florentine shop on the Piazza San Giovanni is re-created in two distinct dial versions, both in 47-mm cases made of polished stainless steel – ivory (Ref. PAM00791) and black (PAM00790). Both retro-look dials are notable for their large, Art Deco hour numerals; peripheral railway minute track and additional interior ring; and lacquered, spear-shaped hour and minute hands, a style used for the first time on a Panerai wristwatch. Price for both models: $9,200.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Reverso is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most recognized and historically significant watch. Its Art Deco case style is mirrored in one of the greatest achievements of that period’s architecture as well: William Van Alen’s Chrysler Building in Manhattan. The timepiece and skyscraper share the same geometric forms and modernist ideals that the Art Deco movement is known for. For example, take a look at the horizontal protruding lines of the Reverso’s case and compare them with the ornate and multi-part dome and spire of the Chrysler Building. Recently, Jaeger-LeCoultre released a new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds that is a direct reference to the first Reverso watches that appeared in 1931 on the wrists of polo players. The model comes in stainless steel and features an attractive burgundy-red dial that comes with a matching leather strap from Casa Fagliano. Price: $7,900.

Bulova

At Baselworld 2019, Bulova made the surprise move of launching an entirely new collection filled to the brim with limited-edition models that echo the brand’s New York City heritage. The new Joseph Bulova Collection contains 16 different timepieces in a variety of case styles like tank, tonneau, and round that are borrowed from some of the brand’s most memorable introductions from the 1920s to the 1940s such as the Commodore, Banker and Breton. Now owned by Japan’s Citizen Group, it would be easy to expect the presence of one of the conglomerate’s automatic Miyota calibers inside these cases; instead, Bulova has opted to go the Swiss route by using a Sellita SW200 movement that is visible through an exhibition caseback. Each of the 16 watches is limited to 350 total pieces with prices ranging from $995 to $1,495.

Cartier

Cartier Prive Tonneau – Platinum

While many of Cartier’s iconic watch designs like the Tank and the Santos are informed by Art Deco design and worthy of a mention on this list, it has recently revived another early 20th-century shaped model that went on to become hugely influential, its 1906 Tonneau, with the recently launched Privé line. The Cartier Privé collection kicked off with two two- handed versions in rose gold and platinum in addition to a skeletonized dual-time model. Hearkening back to the original 1906 watch – which was cased in platinum rather than more common gold and featured wrist-hugging curves and vis armurier (or “gunsmith”-style) tube screws to fasten the lugs – the Privé case is double bracketed, with an oblong, curved shape engineered to follow the contours of the wrist. The bezel of the two-hand Tonneau model is formed from a single block of either rose gold or platinum and boasts, according to Cartier, “no overhangs or breaks in the plane” of its surface. The winding crown is topped off with a cabochon in classic Cartier style. The dial – champagne-colored on the rose-gold watch, silvered on the platinum – features polished, rhodium-plated applied Roman numerals and a vintage-style railtrack minutes scale. Both versions of the Tonneau have alligator leather straps, gray with the platinum, brown with the gold, and are outfitted with Cartier’s new Caliber 1917, a manual-winder with a 38-hour power reserve. The platinum watch is limited to 100 pieces and is priced at $26,200. The rose-gold model is priced at $22,400.

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin released a mid-size version of its fan-favorite Historiques 1921 American collection in 2017. First added to the contemporary lineup in 2008, the Historiques 1921 American has become one of the brand’s most popular designs across social media and online forums. The original watch that the Historiques 1921 American is based on was released in 1921 and produced in limited quantities for American motorists, with its dial rotated 45 degrees for easier viewing while driving. Only 12 pieces of the vintage watch were produced from 1921 to 1931. The version of the watch (Ref. 1100S/000R-B430) in 36.5 mm, like the 40-mm version before it, is a faithful homage to the original that keeps much of the vintage elements intact while further developing the modern luxury elements associated with Vacheron Constantin today. With its straight, wire-inspired lugs and an upper corner crown adding to the case, the watch hosts a distinguished border on its rose-gold, cushion-shaped case. Its grained metal dial is angled to the right for a left-handed wearer, using an outer black railroad minutes track, printed “Breguet” Arabic numerals and subtle corporate script with an applied gold VC logo toward the 12 o’clock position. At the 3 o’clock mark is the running seconds subdial, conspicuously non-angled like the rest of the face, while two black pomme-style hands sweep over the whole dial. Inside is the Geneva Seal-certified, manufacture Caliber 4400 AS manually wound movement with a 65-hour power reserve. Price: $28,600.

At first glance, the Rewind appeared to be another lovely Santos Dumont, but a few seconds of studying the gorgeous carnelian dial brought the reversed Roman numeral hour markers into focus. There are a few examples of watches that tell time counterclockwise, the first being the Beuchat “Envers” from 1987, which used a mechanical Ebauches movement and went so far as to not have hour numerals on the dial. There is also the Raketa Russian Code 0216 watch from 2021, which tells the time counterclockwise because of the fact that the planets in our solar system revolve around the sun in this direction. So, while Cartier isn’t the first here, it is certainly the most high profile watchmaker to do a counterclockwise dial. 

Done in the large case size, it measures 31.5mm wide and 7.3mm thick with a lug-to-lug height of 43.5mm (30 m of water resistance). The size may sound small on paper but the square shape and broad lugs make for a hefty wrist presence that is about as substantial as you’d want from a dress watch. 

The Rewind is characterized by the use of red throughout the dial, case, and strap. The use of this color isn’t entirely without meaning as Cartier reserves the ruby red cabochon crown for watches that are done in platinum. However, the most alluring aspect of the Rewind has to be that stunning carnelian red dial. A semiprecious stone, carnelian can range in color from orange to reds so deep they almost appear black. The stones sourced by Cartier for this watch have an ethereal and smoky quality to them that go from lighter to darker shades of red, with the specific look at any moment depending on the angle and light. 

The “apple-shaped” hands are done in rhodium-finished steel and are reminiscent of the original Cartier Santos-Dumont from 1904, and serve to ground this piece’s place in one of the oldest watchmaking collections out there. Taking a look at the case back which has Alberto Santos-Dumont’s signature engraved and filled with red with a mirror view of the signature right below it. The desire to have the Rewind associated with the aviator after whom the collection is named is further underscored in the brand’s own words of “Original and inventive, this limited edition follows in the magical and unprecedented footsteps of the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, for whom anything is possible.”

As for the movement, it’s a simple adjustment to reverse the movement and apply the Roman numerals counterclockwise which is admittedly made easier to execute due to the lack of a seconds hand on the Santos-Dumont. The manual-wind 230 MC is the name given to this inverted 430 MC calibre which still has the operating frequency of 3 Hz and a lackluster 38-hour power reserve.

The Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind is both fantastically creative and surprisingly under-the-radar, making for one of the most delightful releases from Watches & Wonders 2024. It is limited to just 200 pieces with a price of $38,400.

To learn more, visit Cartier, here. 

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding

Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony is not just a prime example of Geneva’s fine watchmaking, but for many enthusiasts, it epitomizes the round wristwatch in perfect simplicity. The Patrimony Manual-Winding delights with a minimalist dial and harmonious proportions, defining a style that seamlessly blends an unmistakable personality with understated elegance.

At first glance, the Patrimony Manual-Winding timepiece appears unchanged, maintaining its design inspired by the 1950s, a hallmark since its 2004 introduction. However, the Patrimony has evolved, particularly in the size of the two new manual-winding models. While the previous 40mm size was appreciated, the case, 7.7mm thick and crafted from pink or white gold, now features a classic 39mm diameter.

This change is mirrored on the collection’s signature convex dial, its sunburst-finished surface now presented with a gorgeous new “old-silver” hue. This shade adds a hint of retro styling, contrasting beautifully with the pink gold of the Patrimony collection’s characteristic slim hands, hour-markers, and circular ‘pearl’ minutes track, composed of 48 polished 18K gold pearls.

Surprisingly, the case back of the Patrimony Manual-Winding is closed, allowing space for personal signatures. Behind it ticks the hand-wound manufacture caliber VC 1440 with 42 hours of power reserve. With 116 components, its mechanical microcosm is just 2.6mm thick.

Pricing is marked at $25,200 excluding taxes for both variants.

To learn more, visit Vacheron Constantin, here.

Cartier Collection Privé Tortue

The focus of this year’s Privé Collection is the Tortue, first introduced in 1912. Like all models from the Maison, it masterfully plays with shapes, combining curves with strict lines. In the reissue, Cartier remained faithful to the original design, only elongating the lugs and refining the profile. This two-hand timepiece in yellow gold, limited to 200 pieces, is particularly authentic. Its tonneau-shaped case measures 41.4mm x 32.9mm in diameter and has a slim height of 7.2mm. The grained dial features Roman numerals and a railway minute track, while apple-shaped hour and minute hands gracefully sweep around it. Behind the scenes, the hand-wound manufacture caliber 430 MC ensures precision.

Pricing is marked at $31,000.

To learn more, visit Cartier, here.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde

At this year’s Watches and Wonders, Parmigiani Fleurier presented a new generation of the Toric, the very first wristwatch Michel Parmigiani created in 1996 when he started his own brand. This new iteration pushes the boundaries of purist elegance and was one of the most talked-about timepieces of the show.

According to Guido Terreni, Parmigiani Fleurier’s CEO, the new Toric “redefines the essence of the men’s dress watch.” It is presented in slim platinum 950 and pink gold cases, featuring 18-carat gold movements, which is quite stunning. The calibers are manually wound, showcasing top-notch finishing quality and intricate details, befitting a dress watch. The hand-stitched alligator leather straps with a nubuck finish and a traditional “punto a mano” stitch, a specialty of Neapolitan tailors, add to its elegance.

The Toric Petite Seconde has a diameter of 40.6mm and a slender height of 8.8mm. It is water-resistant to 50 meters, with a polished case featuring a knurled bezel shared with Parmigiani’s Tonda PF collection. The watch is offered in platinum with an almond-green dial and in pink gold with a sandy-gold dial. Both dials are slightly beveled and adorned with a gorgeous graining that serves as a magnificent backdrop for the short hour markers and hands that match the case material.

The Toric Petite Seconde in pink gold retails for CHF 49,500, while the platinum version has a sticker price of CHF 56,500.

To learn more, visit Parmigiani Fleurier, here.

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Re-creation of the “First”

Launched in 1960, the very first Grand Seiko was the result of a project to create a timepiece that would be low-maintenance, easy to wear, highly legible, and simply beautiful. This year, the Japanese luxury brand introduces a new reinterpretation of this timeless design, the ref. SBGW314, crafted in pink gold and powered by an in-house automatic caliber. Equipped with an exhibition caseback, the case measures 38.0mm wide and is 10.9mm thick.

It frames a gorgeous dial inspired by “Hoshizukiyo,” which translates to starry night. Many details pay homage to the “First,” such as the multifaceted markers and dauphine hands, the font used for the Grand Seiko logo, the “Diashock 24 jewels” inscription, and the 8-pointed star at 6 o’clock, a prerogative of Grand Seiko’s “special dials,” whose markers are made of solid gold. As befits a refined dress watch, the SBGW314 is driven by a precise hand-wound movement. The caliber 9S64 beats with 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 72-hour power reserve.

Limited to 50 pieces and available exclusively at Grand Seiko boutiques from June 2024, the Elegance Collection Re-creation of the “First” is mounted on a dark blue crocodile leather strap and comes with an additional brown strap. The price is marked at $26,500.

To learn more, visit Grand Seiko, here.

Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Date

All of the luxury newcomers mentioned above symbolize style and mechanical refinement at the highest level. However, they are at a price point that is not for everyone’s wallet. The new Manufacture Classic Date from Frederique Constant is in a more accessible price segment and still ticks the boxes for a very decent dress watch with a genuine caliber. It has a diameter of 40mm and a height of 11.7mm.

The stainless-steel timepiece with a prominent pointer date indication at 6 o’clock is available in three captivating sunburst dial colors: two lighter shades of salmon and silver, along with a darker black option. All three dials feature applied silver-colored slim diamond-cut indexes, complemented by a minute rail track encircling the sunburst pattern. The hand-polished hands elegantly sweep across the dial, enhancing readability and style.

Powering the Manufacture Classic Date is the new in-house caliber, FC-706, which is based on the FC-710 movement. This self-winding caliber boasts an impressive 72-hour power reserve, ensuring reliable timekeeping for days on end. Through the transparent caseback, you can admire the refined perlage and fan-shaped Côtes de Genève decorations, showcasing a high level of craftsmanship.

The Manufacture Classic Date will be available from May 2024 and retail for $3,295.

To learn more, visit Frederique Constant, here.