Like a second time-zone complication, but better, a world timer provides a more complete function that is useful, and even essential, for travelers in today’s globalized world. The Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer offers an amazingly simple, instantaneous and accurate reading of time around the globe. Our test confirms it.

While Bulgari recently set a new world record with its Octo Finissimo Ultra, the Octo Roma WorldTimer plays a significant role in another area that is no less interesting. Quite the opposite. Watches with time-zone or even worldtime functions have become more important than ever in our globalized lives, and not only for today’s international travelers. With the Octo Roma WorldTimer, you can keep an eye on the whole world in a simple and clear way — even from your desk in your office or at home.

Either way, this timepiece is geared toward sophisticates of all sorts and not just to the men who travel the world. The Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer, measuring 41 mm across and only about 12 mm high, looks great on a woman’s wrist, too. The Gérald Genta case design is one of the most famous and emblematic in the world of haute horlogerie, boasting 58 different facets for this Octo Roma WorldTimer. The round, downward sloping bezel is as striking as the multifaceted case body and the angular lugs. The Octo case structure has no sharp angles and is anything but ordinary or boring. Our test watch is the bead-blasted black DLC (diamondlike carbon)-coated steel version, but another model is also available with a stainless-steel case with brushed and polished finishes.

Four polished black screws attach the transparent exhibition caseback, providing an excellent view of automatic in-house Caliber BVL257. With its integrated world-time function, the movement is operated by a double-knurled screw-down crown made of DLC-coated stainless steel with a ceramic inlay. Together, the crown and screwed caseback ensure the Octo Roma WorldTimer is water resistant to 100 meters.

The small but well-designed crown is easy to grasp and turn and is used to perform all settings. First, position the city in the desired time zone at 12 o’clock by unscrewing the crown and pulling it to the middle position. This allows the city ring at the outer dial edge to be advanced in either direction. Two offset rows list 24 cities — from Rome to Samoa, from Bangkok to New York — representing the world’s 24 time zones. The list also highlights the world of Bulgari. For example, the popular travel destination St. Barth represents the Caribbean rather than the more well-known island of Bermuda, since St. Barth embodies both the luxury of the region and the high ideals of Bulgari. Other cities are included where Bulgari owns a hotel, such as Dubai and Beijing, or has plans to open one, such as Tokyo. Once the city ring has been positioned, the exact time can be set by pulling the crown to the outermost position. This also allows for the counterclockwise advancement of the 24-hour ring, which is located between the outer city ring and the inner dial, which shows the classic display of hours, minutes and seconds. When positioning the hands, care must be taken to ensure that the 24-hour display aligns with the previously selected time zone. Once this is done, these simple settings make it surprisingly easy to read the time in all 24 time zones of the world. The 24-hour display always corresponds to the time setting, not only for the selected city, but for any location around the globe.

When traveling to another time zone, you’ll adjust the time accordingly and then, using the middle crown position, reset the reference city to the 12 o’clock position. The 24-hour ring is linked with the 12-hour time indication, so once it has been set, it will also advance in the same way. The setting will always be correct, at all times, amazingly simple and perfect.

The new world-time function is powered by a modified movement, consisting of 261 components, which was developed and produced by the manufactory in Le Sentier. Compared to Bulgari’s world-record movements, in-house Caliber BVL257 is simple, but as its functionality shows, its technology should not be underestimated.

The automatic movement is based on the BVL191 that is modified and expanded to display 24 time zones at once. It offers a power reserve of 42 hours, which is comparatively short by today’s standards. Remarkable within the architecture is a sturdy balance bridge for added stability and a refined automatic bridge with an integrated reverser mechanism for automatic winding. This allows for the caliber’s thin structure and the overall slimness of the watch. And last but not least, we should mention the precise finishing with côtes de Genève extending over the rotor and bridges, which contributes to a look that’s more technical than refined, while underscoring the functionality of the movement as expressed on the dial.

Despite the world-time indication, the signature Bulgari time display is front and center, directly in the center of the black bead-blasted dial. The bold, distinctive elongated markers — most notably, the numerals 12 and 6 — are placed inside the inner section of the circular dial. The black dauphine hands for the hours and minutes are faceted, polished and filled with Super-LumiNova. They glow bright green like the markers and numerals. The black seconds hand remains dark, however, and is sometimes difficult to see, even during the day.

But it’s not really a problem, since your attention is drawn to the large-dimensioned world-time indication rather than the smaller unit of time. The perception of time in the individual regions of the world is a satisfying experience. Straightforward typography and strong black-and-white contrast support easy and instantaneous readability.

The watch comes with a textured black rubber strap, which is a bit stiff when new but becomes supple with wear. It is equipped with a classic black DLC-coated stainless-steel pin buckle. With matte and polished areas, the clasp reflects the bold and angular shapes of the case and completes the Octo Roma WorldTimer’s worldly look.

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A snake on the wrist is better than two in the bush – especially if it’s made of precious materials, tells the time and comes from the house of Bulgari. The flexible Serpenti watch coils around the wearer’s wrist just like a real snake. The rounded triangular shape at one end is both the watch case and the head of the reptile.

Bulgari: The Serpenti Spiga Ceramic combines black ceramic, rose gold and diamonds. Quartz movement. $12,400.

Bulgari introduced the first Serpenti watches in the 1940s. Dangerous creatures have long fascinated watch designers. Cartier has a tradition of featuring predators – the panther has occupied a fixed place in the repertoire of this famous Parisian watch and jewelry house since 1914.

A wildcat made of precious metal can threaten the bank account of anyone who intends to buy one – and a panther would not be such a thrilling watchmate if its elegance were not paired with the ferocity of the predator’s face. The Révélation, a panther watch from Cartier, artfully reveals its charms thanks to a spectacular hourglass feature. Moving the dial causes tiny gold beads to fall from top to bottom to slowly form the panther’s face, and gradually have it vanish again.

Cartier: The Révélation contains tiny gold beads that come together to form a panther’s face. Rose gold with diamonds. Hand-wound Caliber 430 MC. $112,000.

Another wild feline inspired the imagination of the designers at Jaquet Droz. A delicate miniature portrait of a lion’s face is painted on the enamel dial of the Petite Heure Minute Lion in exquisite detail, within the tiniest space. Jaquet Droz celebrates the talents of fine crafts-men who make each one of the 28 pieces a unique specimen.

Jaquet Droz: The Petite Heure Minute Lion in rose gold features a painted lion gazing out from the dial. Automatic movement 2653.P. $32,200.

The wolf on the dial of the ArtyA Wolf Tourbillon 1/1 has an even more aggressive look. Belgian artist Bram Ramon is behind the complex decoration of this one-off piece, with a dial that features floral ornamentation and an impressive wolf’s head, combined with engraving work and miniature sculpture. The Wolf watch design – with its medieval touches and biker style – is a potent mixture of rock and roll, mythology and fine craftsmanship, a typical combination for ArtyA, enhanced here with the addition of a flying tourbillon. The wild wolf makes this Swiss timepiece into an expressive piece of jewelry for tough guys.

ArtyA: The Wolf Tourbillon 1/1 is one-of- a-kind with a steel case, gold inlays and an exclusive ArtyA hand- wind movement with flying tourbillon. $180,000.

An animal that evokes fear and fascination was transformed into a timepiece by the creative Geneva watch brand MB&F, in collaboration with the clockmaker L’Epée 1839. The spider clock Arachnophobia is designed as a table or wall clock – too large to be worn on the wrist. But the godmother of the eight-legged metal clock creature, whose body contains the timepiece, is many times larger. The Arachnophobia was inspired by the 9-meter-tall spider sculpture “Maman,” created by French-American artist Louise Bourgeois, which exudes a feeling that’s both protective and threatening. The Arachnophobia embodies the fine line that exists between the macabre and elegance.

MB&F and L’Epée 1839: The Arachnophobia in black aluminum. The eight-day movement is wound with a key. CHF 14,500.

Watches have become noticeably more colorful during the past decade. As recently as 2010, luxury watches were still mainly an achromatic affair — with white or black dials and silvery steel cases, at most there was a singular red hand. But this situation soon changed. Colorful dials and bracelets became more frequent, and materials like rubber invited designers to play with color. In the second half of the decade, watches at first became blue, and later, more and more models appeared in green. Both trends continue to this day. But in 2021, a completely different hue moved into the limelight: gray.

The surprising thing is that none of these gray watches looks gray — at least, not in the sense that people often associate with gray — drab, boring or inconspicuous. These watches are different. They stride onto a watch stage that is much more colorful and diverse than ever before. Today, any color is conceivable, even for a luxury watch, both in terms of technical feasibility and public acceptance. A watch that’s gray could just as easily be green, blue or red. Against this background, the conscious decision in favor of gray becomes a statement, and the effect is totally different than it would have been in 2010.

At the same time, gray is the antithesis to the world of colorful diversity. It invites its viewer to rest, pause and take a breather. Gray has another fascinating quality: it’s not one-dimensional because not all grays are the same. On the one hand, this is due to the proportions of white and black, which make the gray look darker or lighter. On the other hand, some gray tones look almost colorful because they change to green, blue or brown, depending on the lighting.

A version of this article appears in the WatchTime Special Design Issue 2022, on sale now.

One rare example of this year is the Aluminium White Automatic just announced by Bulgari. First launched in 1998, the Bulgari Aluminum collection features an unconventional yet sporty and striking combination of an aluminum case and rubber strap. It is crowned by a rubber bezel bearing the double “Bvlgari Bvlgari” signature which first graced a Bulgari timepiece in 1977.

Here, the sleek aluminum dial which is inspired by an ancient Roman coin is paired with rhodium-plated indexes and hands coated with Superluminova for easy readability. A splash of color is added by the seconds hand which stands out in red against the white background. There is also a date window at 3 o’clock.

The case has a diameter of 40mm and is water resistant to 100 meters. It is attached to a white rubber strap with aluminum links and pin buckle. Behind the closed case back made of titanium, Bulgari’s Solo Tempo movement sets the pace. The self-winding caliber B77 caliber beats at 28’800 VpH (4Hz) and offers a 42-hour power reserve. The Aluminium White Automatic is limited to 1,000 pieces.

Pricing for the Bulgari Aluminium White Automatic is marked at $3,150 excluding taxes. 

To learn more, visit Bulgari, here.

Audi’s “progress through technology” motto also applies to the importance of the tourbillon for watch design, because this eye-catching complication greatly enhances a timepiece’s visual appeal. A new trend contributes its fair share, too: many recent models are styled with such a strong emphasis on high tech that their tourbillons fit harmoniously into their overall designs. Here are 10 of these tourbillon watches.

1. Richard Mille 50-02 ACJ

Richard Mille RM 50-02 ACJ

Richard Mille collaborated with Airbus Corporate Jets, which builds luxurious aircraft, to design a technical miracle with an extremely modern-styled tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The split-seconds chronograph for measuring lap times, the torque indicator at the 2 to show how much tension remains in the barrel, and the display at the 4 to show which position has been selected for the crown are likewise readily visible. Titanium-aluminum alloy, manufacture Caliber RM 50-02, automatic, 30 pieces, $1,050,000.

2. Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Sapphire

Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Sapphire

In this transparent and very extreme wristwatch from Hublot, a vertically positioned tourbillon perfectly augments 11 vertical barrels, which team up to provide 50 – yes, 50! – days of power reserve. A battery-powered screwdriver is delivered along with the watch to wind the mainsprings. Sapphire, 29.5 mm by 45.8 mm, manufacture Caliber LaFerrari, hand-wound, 20 pieces, $575,000.

3. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie

A tourbillon provides additional visual appeal in the open styling of this newest technological tour de force from Audemars Piguet. This timepiece also offers a delightful audible treat in the form of the clearest and loudest minute repeater in the entire watchmaking industry. Titanium, 44 mm, manufacture Caliber 2937, hand-wound, 520,000 Swiss francs.

4. Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon

Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbilon

The tourbillon is the sole classically designed component here. The highly unconventional time display consists of a jumping hour with two separate disks and a minutes hand pulled across a linear scale by slender cables. The rollers that move these threads resemble the winches that tighten the lines that secure the mast on a sailing yacht. White gold, 44 mm, Caliber UN 630 by Christophe Claret, hand-wound, 18 pieces, $280,000.

5. Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Earth & Moon

Eclipse the tourbillon to indicate the moon’s phase? This may sound crazy, but it’s precisely what Cartier does. When the push-piece at 4 o’clock is pressed, a circular disk of stone cut from a meteorite slides in front of the tourbillon so the portion of the “whirlwind” that remains visible corresponds to the moon’s momentary phase. Rose gold, 47 mm, manufacture Caliber 9440 MC, hand-wound, 15 pieces, $239,000.

6. Montblanc 4810 Exotourbillon Slim

Montblanc 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim

“Ordinary” tourbillons are also still available. A handsomely closed dial and a tourbillon in a dedicated aperture are Montblanc’s interpretation of classical horological beauty at a comparatively affordable price. Rose gold, 42 mm, manufacture Caliber MB 29.21, automatic, $33,500.

7. Christophe Claret X-Trem-1

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1

The characteristically wavy grain of damascene steel makes the Christophe Claret X-Trem-1 look even more extreme. This watch set new technical standards in 2012: its tourbillon is positioned on a diagonal, which makes it difficult to connect the tourbillon to the movement. The “whirlwind” combines with floating balls, magnetically pulled through tubes, to show the hours and minutes. Damascene steel and rose gold, 40.8 mm by 56.8 mm, manufacture Caliber FLY11, hand-wound, eight pieces, $308,000.

8. Breguet La Marine Équation Marchante 5887

Breguet La Marine Équation Marchante 5887

The tourbillon was patented by the French-Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet on June 26, 1801. For the 5887, the prestigious brand has not only added a perpetual calendar, but also measures time according to the current position of the sun (the central hand with sun motif), by which the length of a day can vary by -16 to +14 minutes compared to average or civil time. The difference is called the equation of time. The cam responsible for this is shaped like a figure eight, and visible on the dial through a window that also displays the tourbillon carriage. It runs on a sapphire disk so as not to block the view of the tourbillon. Platinum, 43.9 mm, manufacture Caliber 581DPE, automatic, $230,400.

9. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Ultranero

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Ultranero

Bulgari unveiled the slimmest tourbillon movement ever in 2014. The caliber is just 1.95 mm tall and ticks inside a 5-mm-slim wristwatch, which acquires a sporty touch in 2016 thanks to blackened titanium. The straight lines in this watch’s design highlight the complication, which attracts everyone’s admiring gaze. DLC-coated titanium, 40 mm, manufacture Caliber Finissimo Tourbillon, hand-wound, $99,000.

10. TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Tourbillon

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer-02T

A tourbillon watch with a chronograph, automatic winding and chronometer certificate is sensational, even if TAG Heuer tries to quell the hype by calling attention to its industrialized fabrication. An open and symmetrical construction further enhances this watch’s visual appeal. Titanium, partly coated with titanium carbide, 45 mm, manufacture Caliber Heuer 02T, automatic, $15,950.

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