Breitling – WatchTime – USA's No.1 Watch Magazine https://www.watchtime.com Wristwatch reviews, watch news, watch database. Thu, 18 Jul 2024 17:30:19 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.watchtime.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/WatchTime_Icon-205x205.jpg Breitling – WatchTime – USA's No.1 Watch Magazine https://www.watchtime.com 32 32 Splendid Splitters: 5 Noteworthy Rattrapante Chronograph Watches https://www.watchtime.com/featured/splendid-splitters-5-noteworthy-rattrapante-chronograph-watches/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/splendid-splitters-5-noteworthy-rattrapante-chronograph-watches/#respond Thu, 18 Jul 2024 17:32:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=108484 This article is from the WatchTime Archives and was originally published in July 2022. 

Rattrapante chronographs, also referred to as split-seconds chronographs, are a type of chronograph with two seconds hands that allow for the ability to time multiple simultaneous events, such as runners during a race. It can also time a series of events, such as the laps a single person makes on a track. One of the hands, the so-called “rattrapante” hand, sits either directly on top of or underneath the main chronograph hand. The rattrapante hand is started and returns to zero simultaneously with the main chronograph hand. A special push-piece and an additional mechanism make it possible for the rattrapante hand to be repeatedly stopped (so that split times can be read) and then instantly brought in to renewed synchrony with the main chronograph hand by flying back to catch up with it. (“Rattrapanter” is French for “to catch again” or “to take again.”) All this occurs without affecting the motion of the main chronograph hand. Over the past few years, we’ve seen the split-second chronograph trending upward as more and more brands of all sizes add the complication to their arsenal. Here’s a selection of some noteworthy rattrapante chronographs on the market today.

F.P. Journe Chronograph Monopoussoir Rattrapante

F.P. Journe Chronographe_Monopoussoir Rattrapante

F.P. Journe Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante

At SIHH 2018, F.P. Journe debuted the Chronograph Monopoussoir Rattrapante. You may remember F.P. Journe’s contribution to the Only Watch auction back in November 2017, which was constructed from titanium and sold for CHF 1.15 million (an auction record for an F.P. Journe timepiece). That was the inspiration for this release, with the biggest difference coming from the addition of a big date complication. The watch introduced manual-winding Caliber 1518, a monopusher split-second chronograph movement with a hearty 80-hour power reserve and direct gearing with a rocking pinion to avoid the jumping of the hand when starting the chronograph function. The watches differ from each other thanks to their colorful dials and case materials. Price: CHF 58,000 in titanium; CHF 78,000 in platinum.

IWC Portugieser Rattrapante Chronograph

IWC Portugieser Rattrapante Chronograph

IWC Portugieser Rattrapante Chronograph “Boutique Geneva”

In 2017, IWC released a series of limited-edition Portugieser Rattrapante Chronographs to be sold exclusively at a selection of its boutique locations around the world. These locations included Geneva, Munich, Paris, Milan and Toronto/Vancouver, with each watch featuring a specific aesthetic to appeal to its targeted audience. Our favorite of these models during their initial release was the “Boutique Genève” edition (Ref. IW371221) that was limited to 50 total pieces and included an engraving of the title of Geneva’s 1602 anthem, Cé qu’è lainô, on its caseback. IWC introduced its first rattrapante chronograph to the Portugieser collection in 1995 when Richard Habring developed a split-seconds module for the iconic Valjoux 7750 movement. It uses a push-button at 10 o’clock to control the movement of the upper hand, while the lower hand is managed by the pusher at 2 o’clock. More recently, IWC released the Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Ceratanium in the lead-up to SIHH 2019.

Breitling Navitimer B03 Rattrapante Chronograph

Breitling Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante-45 Boutique Edition - front

Breitling Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante-45 Boutique Edition

Breitling introduced its Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante 45, outfitted with the brand’s first in-house split-seconds chronograph movement, in 2017. At 2018’s Breitling Summit in London, the brand unveiled a new limited version with a “Stratos Gray” dial, available for sale exclusively at the brand’s 70 boutiques worldwide. The timepiece’s boldly proportioned, 45-mm case is made of stainless steel and is outfitted with a convex, double-nonreflective-coated sapphire crystal over the dial. The three dark gray-toned subdials (30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock, and small seconds at 9 o’clock) pop against the sleek background of the main dial. The split-seconds pusher is embedded in the 3 o’clock crown. Caliber B03’s modular architecture is built upon the base Caliber B01, Breitling’s first manufacture movement, which is equipped with automatic winding, date indication, an integrated 1/4- second chronograph function, and a 70-hour power reserve. The split-seconds module added to this high-performance horological engine is comprised of only 28 parts, and is fitted between the mainplate and calendar mechanism. Limited to just 250 pieces, the Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante 45 Boutique Edition in Stratos Gray is priced at $12,000.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P Grand Complication

Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P GC

Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P Grand Complication

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P Grand Complication in platinum was an evolutive release for the legendary independent watchmaking firm when it was announced in 2017. It represented the next phase of the brand’s iconic range of split-seconds chronographs, last updated in 2012 with the contemporary classic Ref. 5204. The 5372P maintains the complementary perpetual calendar functionality, while heightening the complexity of the rattrapante mechanism by making it into a monopusher. The layout of the dial is transformed as well with the chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock flanked by apertures showing the month and day of week, respectively. The date wheel is placed in a subdial at 6 o’clock while the moon-phase has been relocated to 12 o’clock. Small windows on both sides of the date wheel indicate leap year and day/night. The diameter shrinks slightly as well, now coming in at 38.2 mm compared to 40.2 mm for the Ref. 5204. The dial comes in either blue sunburst with gold applied numerals or in vertically satin-finished rose gold. Price upon request.

A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split

A. Lange & Sohne Triple Split

A. Lange & Sohne Triple Split

As it often does, A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of SIHH 2018’s most-discussed novelties with the release of the Triple Split, the world’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph that can perform multi-hour comparative time measurements. The watch’s ability to measure both additive and comparative times up to an astounding 12 hours is achieved by additional rattrapante hands on both the minutes and hours-totalizing subdials. In its switched-off mode, the chronograph’s hand pairs – sweep seconds, minute- and hour-counter hands – are superposed. When the chronograph is activated via its pusher, all these hands start running simultaneously until the rattrapante pusher (on the opposite side of the case) is pressed to freeze intermediate time measurements. Limited to 100 pieces and housed in an 18k white-gold case, the Triple Split is also equipped with a flyback function, one that uses all three hand pairs. Price: approximately $147,000.

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Four Sports Watches that are Great in Gold https://www.watchtime.com/featured/four-sports-watches-that-are-great-in-gold/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/four-sports-watches-that-are-great-in-gold/#respond Fri, 05 Jul 2024 13:52:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=139672 This article is from the WatchTime Archives and was originally published in June 2022.

While stainless steel is, for many, the preferred material for luxury sports watches, gold still has its fans. In fact, after a decade or two of pink gold being on the rise, it is now yellow gold that is making a comeback. Especially for those who enjoy a more classic look, this is indeed a very tempting material. Seductive are also the following four sportive watches that look great in gold;

Breitling Super Avi B04 Chronograph GMT 46 P-51 Mustang

These two Breitlings perfectly illustrate the difference in appeal between stainless steel and gold. While more of a good-looking instrument in the first, the latter adds a dash of glamour and luxury while being just as capable. Granted, 18 karat gold is a softer material than stainless steel, so it damages quicker, but unless you are going to wear it when things get really rough, you should be fine. What I also like about aviation watches in gold is that they tend to age very nicely. I suspect that this has something to do with the chronograph complication that they are often fitted with, which amplifies their practical nature.

Panerai Luminor Calendario Perpetuo

This watch almost contradicts what Panerai stands for, as it combines a complex movement with an innovative perpetual calendar complication with a Goldtech case. This is Panerai’s proprietary alloy with a slightly higher copper content to give a richer hue. Because of the way Panerai worked with this material and the way it integrated the complications in the overall design, it remains grounded in the DNA of the brand. It also shows how powerful the Luminor design is because while a 44mm diameter large watch in polished gold sounds like too much of a good thing, this Panerai proves that it is temptation for the wrist and a luscious alternative to their stainless steel and titanium models.

Angelus Chronodate Gold

Gold and the color blue always go very nicely together, as this Angelus Chronodate underscores. The two really get a synergy going that makes the blue look more luxurious and the gold more sportive. Angelus works this to a further degree of perfection by giving the blue dial different finishes that interact differently with the gold case. It results in a precious, sportive creation that quite literally unites the best of both worlds.

Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only

Hublot is a brand that always seems to be ahead of the curve when it comes to trends. This is also the case with the return of yellow gold in a more prominent position within their collection. With the Big Bang Integral Time Only, they make it almost all about this material as there isn’t even the distraction from a chronograph movement, a complication the Big Bang is well-known for. By alternating brushed and polished surfaces, Hublot succeeds in maintaining a sportive look for this watch, making it almost like an understatement. As it is also fitted with a gold bracelet, one can expect that the heft of the Big Bang Integral Time Only on the wrist is quite substantial. As this is even more than if it had been made from stainless steel, one can consider this the sportive feel of luxury.

What sports watch would you like to wear in gold? Let us know in the comments!

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Breitling Dives Deep and into Color with New Superocean Watches https://www.watchtime.com/featured/breitling-dives-deep-and-into-color-with-new-superocean-watches/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/breitling-dives-deep-and-into-color-with-new-superocean-watches/#respond Mon, 24 Jun 2024 12:05:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=160527 With summer in full swing, Breitling is launching a new line-up of its Superocean collection of diver’s watches. The technical flagship is the Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver, which has an impressive depth rating of 1,000 meters (3,300 ft), making it the deepest diving Superocean timepiece. In addition to this engineering feat, the titanium-clad watch features a patented safety lock for the bidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic inlay, positioned on the left flank and ensuring that no accidental bezel rotation will interfere with decompression stops.

The dial is available in two cool camouflage hues, black and green. For a pop of color, the tip of the central second hand is yellow. It is furnished with broad hands and indexes coated with Superluminova that allows for easy readability underwater. Interestingly, the design takes clues from an original from the 1960s which was affectionately called “Superocean Slow Motion” thanks to its pared down design.

The Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver measures 46mm wide and incorporates a soft-iron inner case that offers protection against the effects of magnetic fields. At the heart of the watch ticks the self-winding caliber Breitling 10 which is a COSC-certified chronometer and has a power reserve of 42 hours. The two strap options (rubber or titanium bracelet) have a folding clasp that allows for micro-adjustments of up to 15mm for easy wear over rashes and wetsuits. 

The Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver is priced at $6,300 (rubber strap) and $6,950 (bracelet).

For watch lovers who prefer more modest proportions and who are open to the use of color, Breitling has even more options in store. The Superocean Automatic 36 for example. Its white dial with rainbow-gradient markers offers a colorful interpretation of the Slow Motions’ minimalist and focused style. Here, too, the dial architecture has an impressive depth that enhances its distinctive charisma. The use of pink gold for the crown and bezel grip adds a luxurious touch and contrast to the white of the ceramic inlay of the unidirectional bezel and dial.

This Superocean Automatic 36 is powered by the caliber 17 and offered with a white rubber strap. Pricing is marked at USD 7,300.

To learn more, visit Breitling, here.

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Touching the Past: Six Modern “Retro” Watches and the Historical Pieces That Inspired Them https://www.watchtime.com/featured/touching-the-past-six-modern-retro-watches-and-the-historical-pieces-that-inspired-them/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/touching-the-past-six-modern-retro-watches-and-the-historical-pieces-that-inspired-them/#respond Sun, 23 Jun 2024 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=102350 When retro-inspired watches are modeled after specific predecessors, fans of mechanical timekeeping can “grasp” design history. In this feature from the WatchTime archives, we take a look at six watches that awaken a longing for the past.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE POLARIS MEMOVOX

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox - Front

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox (above) and the original Memovox Polaris from 1968 (below)

JLC Memovox 1968

A sporty and elegant wristwatch is a good choice to wear on a trendy beach. And the alarm function assures that a night owl won’t forget an evening rendezvous. The alarm also functioned underwater on the original watch, which Jaeger-LeCoultre premiered in 1965. A variation with a sporty design (left) debuted three years later. It served as the inspiration for the new model, which arrived in 2018. Stainless steel, 42 mm, manufacture Caliber 956, automatic, limited series of 1,000 watches, $12,600.

 

BREITLING NAVITIMER

Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 46

The Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 46 (above) and the original Navitimer from 1952 (below)

Breitling Navitimer 1952

The Navitimer enjoys cult status not only among pilots, but also with their earthbound counterparts. Introduced in 1952, this watch also represents an epoch when increasing air traffic revolutionized travel. Numerous new versions without a slide rule on the bezel and even without a stopwatch function debuted in 2018. But classical model variations with both of these functions, such as the Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 46 (shown), are still available for Breitling fans. They differ from the original Navitimer mainly due to their larger size and contrasting-colored subdials. Stainless steel, 46 mm, manufacture Caliber B01, automatic, chronometer, $8,215.

 

ROLEX GMT-MASTER II

Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel - soldier

Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel (above) and the original Rolex GMT-Master from 1955 (below)

Rolex GMT-Master 1955

Thanks to an additional 24-hour hand and its corresponding rotatable bezel, this Rolex model is the epitome of a traveler’s watch. The main hour hand wasn’t separately adjustable until the debut of the GMT-Master II in 1982. The two hour hands were inseparably linked when the original model premiered in 1955, which meant that if the wearer wanted his watch to show the time in a second zone, he had to turn the rotatable bezel until it matched the additional hour hand. Nicknamed “Pepsi,” the coveted steel version with its blue-and-red bezel celebrated its comeback in 2018. Stainless steel, ceramic bezel, 40 mm, manufacture Caliber 3285, automatic, chronometer, $9,250.

 

IWC PORTUGIESER

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days 150

The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” (above) and the original Portugieser from 1939 (below)

IWC vintage Portugieser

Elegance spanning generations: IWC celebrated a milestone anniversary in 2018 with the latest version of this icon. The new Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” is inspired by the large, straightforward, steel watches that IWC delivered to Portuguese importers in 1939. The elegant 41.5-mm case surrounded various dial options. Rose gold, 43 mm, manufacture Caliber 59215 with power-reserve display on the back, hand-wound, $18,800.

 

SEIKO 1968 AUTOMATIC DIVER’S RE-CREATION LIMITED EDITION

Seiko Automatic Divers SLA025

Seiko Automatic Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition (Ref. SLA025, above) and the original model from 1968 (below)

Seiko Divers - 1968 original

Fifty years after the debut of its first divers’ watch with a high-frequency caliber, this Japanese manufacturer pays homage to the timepiece with the release of Reference SLA025. The manufacture caliber completes 36,000 semi-oscillations per hour. The fast-paced movement and the water-tightness to 300 meters are as exciting as the new design: it’s nearly identical to the styling of the original. Hardened stainless steel, 44.8 mm, manufacture Caliber 8L55, automatic, limited edition of 1,500 watches, $5,400.

 

TUDOR PELAGOS

Tudor Pelagos

The Tudor Pelagos (above) and the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner from 1969 (below)

Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner - 1969

The styling of this instrument for professional divers traces its ancestry directly to the Oyster Prince Submariner from 1969. This model premiered the so-called “snowflake” hands with their eye-catching rectangles, which assured that the hour hand wouldn’t be mistaken for the minutes hand. Meanwhile, the steady progress of the luminous rectangle on the seconds hand instantly reassured a diver that his watch was still running in the dark depths. The Pelagos remains watertight to 500 meters, is equipped with a helium valve, and lets divers choose between a rubber strap and a titanium bracelet. Titanium, ceramic bezel, 42 mm, manufacture Caliber MT5612, automatic, chronometer, $4,400.

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Bold, Bright, and Uniquely Triumph: Breitling Hits the Road with Chronomat B01 42 Triumph https://www.watchtime.com/featured/bold-bright-and-uniquely-triumph-breitling-hits-the-road-with-chronomat-b01-42-triumph/ https://www.watchtime.com/featured/bold-bright-and-uniquely-triumph-breitling-hits-the-road-with-chronomat-b01-42-triumph/#respond Fri, 14 Jun 2024 12:28:00 +0000 https://www.watchtime.com/?p=160209 Breitling and Triumph Motorcycles unveil their third collaboration that brings together the spirit of motorcycling and the world of watches. In 2024, the Chronomat, one of the Swiss brand best known timepieces, takes center stage.

Launched in 1984, at the height of the thin quartz watch, Breitling made a bold bet on an impressively proportioned mechanical watch. The Chronomat celebrated Breitling’s centenary in style and marked the return of the mechanical chronograph to its rightful place in the brand’s rich stopwatch heritage.

The Chronomat B01 42 Triumph has a 42mm titanium case with an 18-karat gold ring framing the unidirectional bezel. The crown and chronograph push-pieces are also in 18K red gold. The water resistance is rated up to 200 meters.


The luminescent dial has a gorgeous anthracite hue that provides a cool backdrop for the chronograph counters and small seconds. The indices and hands are tone on tone with the red gold accents. A closer look reveals two nice details: The Triumph logo on the center stop second hand and the “for the ride” motto on the inner tachymeter scale.

The motor of the new Chronomat B01 42mm is the tried-and-tested Caliber 01, a COSC-certified chronograph movement with a column-wheel, vertical coupling, and 70 hours of power reserve. Its details can be admired through a pane of sapphire crystal in the case’s screw-down back. The brown perforated leather strap with folding clasp complements the bold yet elegant appearance.

Pricing for the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Triumph is marked at $10,900 excl. sales tax.

To learn more, visit Breitling, here.

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