Military Watches

Military History: Testing the Sinn Model 158

This article is from the WatchTime Archives and was originally published in July 2022. With Model 158, Sinn has revived a little-known facet of its history: the Bundeswehr Chronograph. Presented in a refreshed, limited edition, how well does this retro chronograph perform? Sinn is known for making watches for police and military forces. The EZM...

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Aug 4, 2024 by Jens Koch

It’s Time – WatchTime New York 2024 Tickets On Sale Now!

After an incredible show in 2023, WatchTime New York, the premier collector’s event in North America, is set to return to Manhattan from October 18th to 20th, 2024. WatchTime New York 2024 promises to be even more spectacular, with the show marking the 25th anniversary of WatchTime and bringing together the world’s finest watchmakers, timepieces,...

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Jun 20, 2024 by WatchTime

Tool Time: Three Tough Newcomers from Bremont, Hamilton, and Mühle-Glashütte

If diamonds are a girl’s best friend, then tools might be a boy’s favorite toy. From drills to jigsaws, hammers to pliers, men’s toolboxes have the right helper for every task – just ask Dad. No wonder tools designed to be worn on the wrist have been in high demand since the rise of the wristwatch....

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Jun 3, 2024 by Sabine Zwettler

TIMEPIECE TIMELINE

The Evolution of the Men’s Wristwatch: A Decade-by-Decade Guide

World War I coincided with the breakthrough of the wristwatch. New and trailblazing designs followed in each subsequent decade. From the WatchTime archives, here are our highlights, from the beginning of the 20th Century to the present day.

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May 22, 2024 by Ruediger Bucher

FEATURE

Field Ready: The Complicated Story of the Simple Field Watch

How the field watch journeyed from saving lives in the hellish trenches of World War I to decorating the wrists of fashionably rugged-looking civilians a century later is a rather befuddling tale. In this feature from the WatchTime archives, correspondent Allen Farmelo takes us through it.

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May 10, 2024 by Allen Farmelo

Navigating Through the Years: Hands-On with the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Chronograph

For its 175th anniversary last year, Ulysse Nardin introduced an impressive fleet of Marine Torpilleur limited editions. In this latest visit to our esteemed archives, WatchTime sets sail in this latest visit to our archives with the Marine Tourpilleur Chronograph, which also has the added complication of an annual calendar onboard. The French term torpilleur...

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Apr 30, 2024 by Roger Ruegger

Re-Enlistment: Hands-On with the Vintage Military-Inspired Bulova “MIL-SHIPS-W-2181”

Named after the United States Navy’s Bureau of Ships “water-tightness specifications of MIL-SHIPS-W-2181,” American watch brand Bulova brings back two variants of its U.S. Navy prototype dive watch from the 1950s, which take a closer look at today in our latest visit to the WatchTime Archives. The latest addition to Bulova’s “Archive Series” is a...

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Apr 28, 2024 by Roger Ruegger

FEATURE

Flying Ace: Tracing the History of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch

IWC's Big Pilot’s Watch became an instant classic when it was re-released in 2002. But its history stretches much further back in time. In this feature from the WatchTime archives, we explore the Big Pilot and its many evolutions over the decades.

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Nov 14, 2023 by Jens Koch

Showing at WatchTime New York 2023: Breguet Type XX

Founded in 1775, Breguet is a watchmaker renowned for its extensive heritage of fine craftsmanship, thoughtful innovation, and mechanical precision. The distinguished Swiss manufacturer has been at the forefront of horological excellence for centuries, and its timepieces have graced the wrists of legendary aviators, military personnel, and discerning collectors, alike. At WatchTime New York 2023,...

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Oct 1, 2023 by Caleb Anderson

A Legend Reborn: Meet the Limited Edition Hanhart 417 C Flyback

With the 417 C Flyback LE, Hanhart and Chronos — the German sister magazine of WatchTime — present a limited-edition model in steel and bronze. The favorite of Steve McQueen and former German Bundeswehr chronograph comes with a column-wheel chronograph, flyback function, and a manual-winding movement. The Hanhart 417 started its career as a tool...

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Sep 15, 2023 by Jens Koch

Meet the Urban Field, Yema’s Contemporary Take on the Field Watch

Launched last month, Yema’s new Urban Field watch embodies the contemporary adventurer’s need for versatility, melding tool watch functionality with the sophisticated design code of a dress watch. Its military-inspired design is characterized by an ultra-readable dial that is available in five versatile colorways. Creating versatility in its new design, Yema is offering the Urban...

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Jun 22, 2023 by Caleb Anderson

Protek Introduces New U.S. Marine Corps Series 1000 Collection

American watchmaker ProTek is launching a new collection of watches to mark its naming as the official watch of the United States Marine Corp. Aptly named the USMC Series 1000 collection, the series of nine watches express the hard wearing ethos of the brand, both in functionality and in aesthetics. All of ProTek’s watches are...

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Apr 20, 2023 by Caleb Anderson

Luminox Channels the Navy SEALs in the “Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast” Edition

Modern technological and design advancements have made the utility of timepieces increasingly expansive and dynamic. Since its founding in 1989, Luminox has leaned into one of the niche segments of the watch market geared purely for utility, focusing on creating watches used for military service. Notably, the brand has had a longstanding partnership with the...

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Oct 6, 2022 by Caleb Anderson

Doxa Releases a Standard-Issue Doxa Army in Steel

At this year’s Geneva Watch Days, Doxa unveiled a standard-issue version of the history-laden military tool watch, the Doxa Army. The design was originally released in the spring of 2022 as a limited edition, but following its success is now being placed into serial production. The 42.5mm case is milled from a 316L stainless steel...

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Sep 1, 2022 by Sabine Zwettler

Bigger, Badder and Bolder: Squale Master “Marina Militare” Limited Edition

For those who have wondered how the brand’s traditional Von Büren 1521 case would look like on steroids, wonder no more: Squale has just launched its latest in the Master Marina Militare, a limited edition of 300 pieces which uses an enhanced stainless steel case with 1,200-meter water resistance and a diameter of 42mm. By...

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Jun 23, 2022 by WatchTime

Bell & Ross Goes Green with the BR 05 Skeleton

With the launch in 2019 of the BR 05 collection, Bell & Ross was once more able to capture the trends of time in a single creation. While it stayed true to its DNA, the integrated bracelet and distinct square case with its curved corners added a new flavor. One that is for sure appreciated...

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May 24, 2022 by Martin Green

Up, Up, And Away: Hamilton Flies High With New Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph

Reviving its prowess on the field of aviation watches and celebrating authentic vintage design, Hamilton launches the Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph. The faithful 40mm stainless steel model brings back the form and function of the chronographs the tradition brand with American roots produced for the British Royal Air Force pilots in the 1970s. Its...

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May 11, 2022 by Sabine Zwettler

Boots on the Ground: Doxa Revives the Doxa Army in a Limited Edition

In partnership with Watches of Switzerland, Swiss watchmaker Doxa is reissuing a rare gem from its history. More than 50 years after the premiere of the original Doxa Army in 1969, a limited edition of just 100 pieces is now being re-introduced. By the late 1960s, the Swiss brand, which is today headquartered in Biel,...

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Apr 27, 2022 by Sabine Zwettler

Mission Timing: Hamilton Releases New Khaki Field Titanium Automatic Variants

Hamilton’s legacy of providing tough, reliable timepieces to military forces during the 20th century lives on in the Khaki Field Titanium Automatic. Previously launched in two 42mm versions, the American-rooted Swiss brand adds a new 38mm case size that is geared to enthusiasts of smaller watches while also highlighting the design of the historic originals. Three distinct...

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Apr 22, 2022 by Sabine Zwettler

Tough, Tougher, Mission Timer: Sinn Spezialuhren Launches EZM 13.1

On duty for 25 years, literally around the clock: Sinn Spezialuhren looks back on 25 years of mission timekeeping in 2022. Originally developed for special units of the German Federal Police and Customs, these mission timekeepers have meanwhile been produced for many other professionals, such as emergency medical personnel, rescue workers, pilots, divers, and firefighters. ...

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Feb 21, 2022 by Sabine Zwettler

Tools From the Dashboard: Showcasing Bell & Ross’s Flight Instruments Collection

After it revolutionized pilots’-watch design with its dashboard-clock-inspired BR 01, one might have expected Bell & Ross to rest on the laurels of that flagship model but the watchmaker did anything but, turning to an array of other onboard aviation devices — from radar screens to altimeters to gyrocompasses, to produce the inventive and exclusive...

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Feb 4, 2022 by Mark Bernardo

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