The complex case, which is pressure-tested to ten bar, frames an equally fascinating dial that is artfully guilloched by hand in the Swiss brand’s Lucerne workshop using old rose-engine machines. The filigree pattern, which creates an almost hypnotizing play of light, serves as a stage for two literally dynamic complications: the jumping hour in a window at twelve and the retrograde minute, where the hand runs over a circular segment and jumps back to its starting point as soon as the hour is full. Chronoswiss founder Gerd-Rüdiger Lang (1943 – 2003) brought this varied combination to the wrist in the 1990s.

This pioneer of the mechanical renaissance in Germany was also a strong advocate of showing the fascinating microcosm of the movement through a sapphire crystal case back from the very beginning. In the Delphis Sub Zero, the automatic manufacture caliber C.6004 is on display in all its beauty. It offers a power reserve of 55 hours and is characterized by a ball-bearing, partially skeletonized rotor made of tungsten, ruthenium-coated bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève.

The Delphis Sub Zero retails for CHF 16,800 – approximately $19,000 when converted to USD – and can be preordered on the brand’s website.

To learn more, visit Chronoswiss, here.

Cussler, an avid Doxa fan and wearer of the independent Swiss brand’s watches, helped introduce Doxa to a wider audience. Its iconic orange dial, for example, came to the aid of Cussler’s famous fictional adventure hero, Dirk Pitt, enabling the adventurer to accurately read the time while diving on his deadline driven missions.

The hallmark of this special series is the luminescent Sharkhunter dial, which displays the hours, minutes, seconds and date in an instantly readable fashion, adorned with striking white and sand-colored hands and indexes. The compass rose marking the four cardinal points on the dark background is a nod to the history of adventure and underwater exploration. The dial is framed by unidirectional rotating bezel for calculating and monitoring no-decompression dive times. There is also a special commemoration of Cussler engraved into the ring between the bezel and the case.

Water-resistant to 300 meters or 984 feet, the tonneau-shaped stainless steel case which received a special treatment for an authentic look-and-feel, is equipped with a helium release valve and houses a Swiss self-winding movement. It measures 42,5mm x 44,5mm wide and 14mm thick. The closed case back is engraved with the names of shipwrecks and historical artifacts linked to maritime explorations. The red shark motif on the crown also refers to the nautical spirit.

The SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler comes with both the famous “beads of rice” metal bracelet in aged steel and a lighter black FKM rubber strap. Both feature a folding clasp with wetsuit extension.

Pricing is marked at $3,250.

To learn more, visit Doxa, here.

In typical Union Glashütte style, the Noramis Chronograph Sachsen Classic 2024 combines tasteful retro design with a first-class automatic movement, beautifully finished in the brand’s workshops in Germany’s famous watchmaking town. Equipped with an anti-magnetic silicon balance-spring, a second stop and a comfortable power reserve of 65 hours, the UNG-27.S2 is beautifully finished with blued screws, perlage and a personalized rotor decorated with Geneva waves.

While most Noramis models evoke the classic elegance of the 50s and 60s, this model is inspired by the 70s and 80s. As such, it is presented in a rather bold color scheme with touches of orange, light blue and white. The chronograph hands and the tachymeter scale, which is positioned next to the minute scale, are in orange, while the small seconds subdial and the minute counter are in blue. The same rings true for the second scale. A nice detail is the date window in a rather unusual position at 9 o’clock. All in all, the look and feel is the familiar Noramis style, but with a cool twist.

The dial is protected by a slightly domed sapphire crystal, which further enhances its appearance. The polished 316L stainless steel case, water-resistant to 100 meters, has a diameter of 42 mm and is mounted on a blue leather strap with racing perforations and light-blue stitching. The chronograph pushers display the typical mushroom style of the Noramis collection.

The Noramis Chronograph Sachsen Classic 2024 retails for approximately $3,900 when converted to USD.

To learn more, visit Union Glashütte, here.

Available in 42-mm and 36-mm formats, only 1,888 pieces of each size will be produced. The collection’s journey began in 1988 with the founding of the Frederique Constant brand in Geneva, aligning with RHS’s mission to preserve the iconic Riva motorboats of Italy. Their partnership, initiated in 2013, has led to regular limited-edition releases celebrating the elegance of these legendary boats.

The 2024 edition, the Classics Runabout Automatic, combines a bold, sporty dial with a traditional three-hands-and-date functionality. The electric blue dial, shifting between turquoise and navy hues, features a Clou de Paris guilloche finish, reflecting light from every angle. Luminous teal-coated even-numbered numerals and hands, a satin-polished hour circle, and a mirror-polished steel case, water-resistant to 50 meters, complete the elegant design.

Powered by the Sellita-based FC-303 movement with a 38-hour power reserve, the watch’s sapphire crystal caseback showcases the RHS flag logo. Each piece comes in a presentation box with a miniature Riva replica, cementing the tribute to these historic vessels.

The Classics Runabout Automatic is attached to a leather strap with matching stitching and retails for approximately $1,800 when converted to USD.

To learn more, visit Frederique Constant, here.

Under the name Bucherer Blue, the Swiss jewelry company regularly presents the beautiful, blue-accent results of its exclusive collaborations with luxury watch brands. In 2022, Bucherer introduced two watches and a race car.

Bucherer mastered the interplay of shape and color even before the presentation of the first models under the Bucherer Blue label in 2016. Founded in Lucerne in 1888, the watch and jewelry company has designed many of its own timepieces over the course of its 130-year history. What surprises and inspires about the Bucherer Blue collection are the multifaceted statements that can be elicited from the color blue. One watch looks sportier with its welldesigned accents, while another seems more elegant. Yet another appears even more luxurious than its famous original model or reveals an artistic flair.

The motto of the collection, “Innovative, Daring, Exceptional,” fits perfectly with the newest additions to the Bucherer Blue line. A number of creations available only at Bucherer — ranging from watches and jewelry to accessories — have found their way into the jeweler’s stores over the past six years, where they are presented exclusively to those who appreciate the extraordinary.

Since its premiere in 1867, the Three Bridge Tourbillon offered by the long-established Swiss watch brand Girard-Perregaux has become a watchmaking icon. A tourbillon escapement itself is highly complex, but the barrel, gear train and tourbillon supported beneath three perfectly symmetrical and intricately designed bridges makes this complication an unparalleled visual experience. It’s even more exciting when the complicated movement is mounted on sapphires to allow for an unobstructed view of the mechanism.

Bucherer and Girard-Perregaux diligently follow this design path with the new Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue. And which element of this icon would be best suited for presentation in elegant blue? The bridges, of course. Unlike 150 years ago, both the barrel and now a microrotor that automatically winds the in-house movement are supported beneath the first bridge, which gives the watch its excellent properties for everyday wear. The bridges have been modified from their original arrow shape to the modern “Neo” shape with striking curves and cutouts that heighten the threedimensionality.

Luminous hands, luminous indexes attached directly to the edge of the case, a lightweight 44-mm titanium case, two scratchresistant sapphire crystals, and an impressive 60-hour power reserve all underscore the functional aspect of the modern Three Bridge Tourbillon. Anyone who purchases one of the 18 pieces in a Bucherer store will enjoy the historical relevance of the watch as well as its exceptional functionality.

The second blue wonder of the year 2022, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue, was made a total of only 18 times. This is the first limited edition Streamliner watch launched by Moser in cooperation with a retail partner. Bucherer uses the color blue in the form of 60 baguette sapphires on the bezel, totaling 2.9 carats. Otherwise, the watch retains the Streamliner’s typical gray colorway. A tourbillon rotates at 6 o’clock with superior precision thanks to the Moser double hairspring.

Special design features include the brand’s signature fumé dial whose color transitions from light to dark, as well as the logo applied in transparent varnish below the 12 to preserve the simple, unadorned elegance of the watch dial. The visibility of the logo depends on how light hits the dial. As far as utility goes, this watch offers a number of refined features. The screw-down crown ensures that the 40-mm stainless-steel case is water resistant to a depth of 120 meters and the uniquely designed bracelet comfortably hugs the wrist with its beautifully ribbed links.

The markers and hand inlays are made of Globolight, a mixture of ceramic and luminous material, which permits free-form shapes and makes a metallic carrier unnecessary.

The in-house automatic movement HMC 804 is equipped with a bidirectional gold rotor and provides the power. It runs for at least three days when fully wound. The finely decorated movement is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback as it performs its timekeeping function.

The creative workshop L’Epée 1839 shows what an asset well-made table clocks can be for an industry that focuses primarily on wrist watches. A perfect example of a successful clock creation is the L’Epée 1839 Time Fast Bucherer Blue in the style of a single-seater race car from the 1950s. Here Bucherer designed its entire aluminum body in brilliant blue automotive paint, and naturally highlighted it with dynamic racing stripes. Even the wheel rims are rendered in blue. The wheels themselves have a function. Like winding a toy car, pushing the automobile in reverse powers the in-house movement for up to eight days. And the car has a solid, high-quality feel. This mechanical artwork weighs 4.7 kilograms and shows the time iin a typical racing font on two drum rollers. The balance wheel oscillates visibly under the “driver’s helmet,” and the time is set using the steering wheel.

What Bucherer and L’Epée 1839 have created here is a 38.5cm long, 16cm wide timekeeping instrument that can also function as an object of nostalgia, or even as a toy. Anyone who ever wanted to become a race car driver as a child will be thoroughly thrilled to wing it and set the time. With a limited production, only 18 fans of automotive and mechanical technology will get the chance to enjoy this experience.

To learn more about Bucherer, click here, and to subscribe to the WatchTime print magazine, click here.