In 2018, Nomos Glashütte equipped its classic Tangente with an intelligent date display called “update.” We tested the new midnight blue model to find out whether the in-house date indicator is just an update or a genuine upgrade.

In the past, the Nomos Tangente Datum was a handwound watch with a date display in a window at 6 below the seconds subdial. If you wanted to adjust the date, you had to turn the hands forward, orbit after orbit, until the correct date appeared in the window. This was tiresome, even if you knew the trick of only moving the hands forward from about 9 p.m. to midnight and then back again. That model, which is no longer manufactured, was replaced in 2018 by a watch equipped with then-new in-house hand-wound Caliber DUW 4101. The date display is still positioned at the 6, but now it’s larger and can be adjusted both forward and backward by using the crown.

Also in 2018, Nomos presented the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update, which is now followed by an even more elegant version with a dark blue dial. The new model also features Nomos’s patented date indicator, but in a completely different design variation — there is no date window, or more accurately, 31 of them. One pair of these little windows flanks the current date on an unobtrusive scale along the edge of the dial. The date disk below the face of the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Midnight Blue is neon green and glows in the dark.

This circle of dates eliminates the need for a conventional date window, which intrudes a bit awkwardly into the minimalist design, especially on slim, elegant watches. A conventional date window is admittedly easier to read, but the date is, after all, a secondary function, which justifies the somewhat greater effort needed to read it. For many watch fans, the advantage of not having a date window below the small seconds subdial clearly outweighs the disadvantages of reading a peripheral display. And the convenience of being able to adjust the date in either direction exceeds the functionality of established large-series calibers and the majority of manufacture movements.

A Slim Manufacture Caliber 

Nomos has also abandoned a longstanding tradition: the members of the Tangente model family are no longer necessarily hand-wound watches because they encase movements of the new generation, which are identified by the abbreviation DUW, which stands for “Deutsche Uhrenwerke.” This also applies to our test watch, which is powered by automatic Caliber DUW 6101, which has a central rotor that winds the mainspring in both its directions of rotation. Caliber DUW 6101 is 35.2 mm in diameter and only 3.6 mm tall, just like the ETA 2892, for example, yet it nonetheless offers diverse technical refinements, such as its patented dateadjustment mechanism, as well as its balance, which is stably mounted under a bridge.

The oscillating and escapement system with temperature-blued balance spring was developed by Nomos, which presented this innovation under the name “Nomos Swing System” in 2014. Other advantages of the manufacture movement include fine adjustment in six positions instead of the usual five and, among other handsome embellishments, gold-plated relief lettering on the oscillating weight. The only drawback: the balance of this slim movement is finely adjusted not by using an adjusting screw, but by the somewhat inelegant method of directly moving the regulator.

As far as the rate behavior is concerned, our test watch proved to be very reliable. Our timing machine measured a scant average loss of -0.7 second per day. The daily gain during our wearing test, which lasted several weeks, was mostly zero or +1 seconds, but only if the watch was worn around the clock. If it was left lying flat on a dresser overnight and also occasionally during the day, then the gain increased to between 3 and 4 seconds, which is still a very good value. In our strict test regimen, deductions were only made for the significant deviation among the several positions, which was a maximum of 11 seconds.

No matter how pleased you are with the small daily deviation, the look of this new model variant is even more appealing. The combination of a dark blue dial and neon green date fields seems a bit daring, but it adds just the right amount of freshness and individuality to the dial, where all other details are clearly structured as usual, with wellchosen lengths for the hands and neatly balanced proportions. The hands and indexes are not luminous, but this is a tradition at Nomos and it goes well with the simple and elegant Tangente, as does the slimness of all the displays, which slightly reduces legibility but underscores the brand’s origins in the Werkbund and the Bauhaus.

Case and Bracelet 

These German schools of design also inspired the austere “pot-shaped” case with its thin, angled lugs. The lugs are sharp on the underside, but this isn’t noticeable when the watch is worn and the timepiece is very comfortable on the wrist. But the sharp edges on the lugs become noticeable after the watch has been taken off and you run your finger over the back. Flat sapphire crystals are integrated into the front and back of the stainless-steel case, which is an ample 40.5 mm in diameter and only 7.8 mm in height. A contradiction? Not at Nomos: the proportions here are just right.

The wristband already underwent a modification that could be called an “update” in 2015, when Nomos eliminated its very simple pin buckle, which was roughly stamped with the brand’s lettering, and replaced it with a finer, cleanly polished “wing buckle.” The previous model already had a clasp that was milled from a solid block of metal, but the overall quality of the buckle is now significantly higher, including the very evenly engraved lettering of the brand’s name on the wider part of the buckle.

The wristband itself is still made of “Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan” horsehide, but it no longer has simple cut edges. The upper leather is now bent under the lower leather and sewn into place. What remains is the deliberately rough and irregular appearance of the lower leather and, unfortunately, also the susceptibility of the upper leather to scratches, abrasion and crease marks caused by threading the strap through the buckle. Close scrutiny of our test watch discovered that the loose leather loop through which the protruding end of the strap can be threaded was roughly sewn and glued to the lower leather.

We’ve noticed these details before in our tests of Nomos watches. The fact that the company stays with its special leather straps seems to suggest that most watch aficionados like them — or at least don’t dislike them. But we find this a bit disappointing for a watch that sells for $4,100.

Be that as it may, we can now return to the question that we posed at the beginning of this article: Is this model an update or an upgrade? The answer is definitely the latter. Nomos has significantly improved the Tangente with date display with its new generation of calibers and has achieved a more harmonious dial design by dispensing with a single large date window. Victory all along the line — it’s a genuine upgrade.

Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Midnight Blue Specs

Manufacturer: Nomos Glashütte/SA Roland Schwertner KG, Ferdinand-Adolph-Lange-Platz 2, D-01768 Glashütte, Germany 

Reference number: 182 

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds on a subdial, peripheral date 

Movement: Manufacture Caliber DUW 6101, automatic, 21,600 vph, 27 jewels, stop-seconds function, quickset date is adjustable in both directions, Incabloc shock protection, fine adjustment via regulator, 42-hour power reserve, diameter = 35.2 mm, height = 3.6 mm 

Case: Stainless-steel case, flat sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on its underside, snap-fit caseback with pane of sapphire crystal, water resistant to 50 m

Strap and clasp: Horsehide strap with stainless-steel pin buckle 

Rate results: Deviation in seconds per 24 hours

Dimensions: Diameter = 40.5 mm, height = 7.8 mm, weight = 55 g 

Variations: With silver-white dial (Ref. 180, $4,100); with ruthenium dial (Ref. 181, $4,100) 

Price: $4,100

Scores:

Strap and clasp (max. 10 points):
We like the new clasp and the wrap-around edges of the wristband, but the upper surface of the horsehide strap is still prone to scratches, abrasion and crease marks from being threaded through the clasp. 7

Case (10): Nomos uses a decidedly simple case with a simple pressure-fitted back and two flat sapphire crystals. The strap lugs are sharp-edged on the underside. 7

Dial and hands (10): The watch’s face is neatly crafted. 8

Design (15): Harmonious proportions, elegant shapes and handsome color scheme, carefully integrated date display — all in all, a well-designed watch. 13

Legibility (5): The well-chosen lengths for the hands and the sensible calibrated scales are offset by low contrast and very slim hands and indexes, which detract from the legibility. To harmonize with the design, the date scale is printed in very small type. 3

Operation (5): The crown clearly clicks into its two pulled-out positions and the date emits a solid “click” when it’s manually advanced. The ability to reset the date in either direction is a major advantage. 5

Wearing comfort (5): This slim wristwatch weighs only 55 grams and sits perfectly on your wrist at all times. 5

Movement (20): Automatic Caliber DUW 6101 is slim and attractively decorated. It also offers a functional date mechanism and a stable balance wheel installed under a sturdy bridge. Fine adjustment by directly moving the regulator is a less appealing detail. 15

Rate results (10): The daily deviation is a very small loss of -0.7 second. The only drawback is a significant maximum deviation of 11 seconds among the several positions. 7

Overall value (10): The exterior is simple, but $4,100 is a good price for a harmoniously designed manufacture watch. 8

TOTAL: 78 points

To learn more about Nomos Glashütte, click here, and to subscribe to the WatchTime print magazine, click here.    

Mido’s new version, our test watch, most closely resembles one of its historical ancestors with two counters at the 9 and the 3. Mido’s annals have this to say about the original chronograph: “The large central hand indicates the fifths of a second. The subdial on the right shows the elapsed time in minutes. This type of dial is recommended for athletes, technicians, photographers, etc.”

Speed Measurement Through The Years 

Today, the new watch’s golden elapsed-seconds hand sweeps from the center of the dial, follows the 4-Hz rhythm of Mido’s modern Caliber 60 and passes smoothly along a correctly calibrated elapsed-seconds scale with three graduation marks per second on the edge of the dial. Together with the tachymeter scale, which is positioned even farther out on the dial’s rim, the elapsed-seconds scale gives the Multifort Patrimony Chronograph an instrument-like look. This tachymeter scale differs from those on historical models, which ran in a spiral in the inner part of the dial. Mido’s instruction manual explained how to use this scale: “At a distance of one kilometer, the reading is taken on three rings, beginning with the outer one. The numerals on the ring indicate the speed in kilometers per hour. The speed is read on the outer ring for an elapsed interval of less than one minute, on the middle ring during the second minute, and on the inner ring during the third minute.”

With our modern Multifort Patrimony Chronograph, only speeds of intervals up to one minute and 60 kilometers per hour can be read. But considering the fast pace of our times, this is probably not much of a shortcoming. Less satisfactory, however, is the fact that the tachymeter scale appears quite distorted under the highly arched rim of the box sapphire crystal and is, therefore, difficult to read. The suboptimum legibility here is quite the opposite of the clear readability of the rest of the chronograph functions and the time.

A Modern Movement Ticks Behind A Nostalgic Façade 

Although the central elapsed-seconds hand is very thin, it can always be easily seen because its rose-gold color contrasts well against the dark blue background of the dial. The same good legibility also distinguishes the small and likewise gold-plated hand for the continually running seconds, its counterpart for the elapsed minutes and even more so for the two retro-style “alpha” hands for the main time, which even glow in the dark. The dial has a fine sunburst finish and the curvature of its rim follows the curve of the sapphire box crystal, thus emphasizing the nostalgic character of this timepiece.

The two chronograph pushers further affirm the handsome retro styling. With their mushroom shape, they look exactly the same today as their ancestors did on Mido’s first chronograph more than 80 years ago. Today, however, they trigger the stopwatch functions of a modern movement, namely the Mido Caliber 60, where the 60 in the name refers to the movement’s 60-hour power reserve. Caliber 60 embodies a modernization of the ETA/Valjoux 7753 to create the ETA A05.H31, which is also used in various versions by other brands of the Swatch Group, to which Mido also belongs.

A relic from the ETA/Valjoux 7753 is the quickset date, which is positioned at the 6, where it replaces one of the classic white Arabic numerals. The quickset is not operated with the crown extracted to its center position, as is usual, but by pressing a tiny button inset into the case at the 10. The resetting requires a tool, a correction pen that is supplied by Mido, but which may not always be at hand.

Mido encases the Elaboré version of Caliber 60 in the Multifort Patrimony Chronograph. Among other things, this means that the movement is only regulated in three positions. ETA specifies a rate deviation of between plus and minus 7 seconds per day in this quality level. Our test watch kept time within this range in all situations. It ran best on the wrist, and its rate also remained stable with the chronograph switched on. The cam shift mechanism for the chronograph works in the usual manner. A bit more pressure is needed to begin measuring an elapsing interval; stopping, restarting and the zero position work a bit more easily. But these three commands run very pleasantly and give you the feeling of having secure pressure points under your fingertips. The partly polished and partly satin-finished case, which is plated with rose-gold PVD, tapers toward the back with a concave step, making it easier to turn the crown when resetting the hands. This also hides somewhat the overall height of more than 15.5 mm, which is due to the combination of the highly arching box sapphire crystal and the tall threaded back with its window of sapphire crystal.

Historical Lettering Pays Tribute To a Rich Heritage 

Despite its relatively tall height, the elegant yet sporty Multifort Patrimony Chronograph sits very well on the wrist. This is due to the highquality strap made of genuine Vachetta leather with faux crocodile embossing. The strap is crafted from thin cowhide and seems somewhat dainty, but the rembording toward the lugs assures that it is strong enough to securely hold the chronograph on the wrist. In keeping with the retro character of this watch, the leather strap is secured by a pin buckle plated with rose gold. And as on the dial below the 12, historical lettering on the buckle pays tribute to the heritage of both the timepiece and the Mido brand.

Mido Multifort Patrimony Chronograph Specs:

Manufacturer: Mido SA, Chemin de Tourelles 17, 2400 Le Locle, Switzerland 

Reference number: M040.427.36.042.00 

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds subdial, chronograph (central elapsed-seconds hand, counter for 30 elapsed mintues), tachymeter scale, date 

Movement: Mido Caliber 60, Elabore ́ , base ETA A05.H31, automatic, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, gold-plated nickel balance, Nivarox 2 hairspring, fine adjustment via bipartite index, Nivachoc shock absorption, 60-hour power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.90 mm 

Case: Stainless-steel and rose-gold PVD, box sapphire crystal above dial, sapphire crystal in back, water resistant to 50 m 

Strap and clasp: Vacetta leather with faux crocodile embossing, rose-gold PVD pin buckle 

Rate results: Deviation in seconds per 24 hours (Fully wound / after 24 hours) 

Dimensions: Diameter = 41.89 mm, lug width = 21 mm, height = 15.54 mm, weight = 96 g 

Variations: With white dial (Ref. M040.427.36.262.00, $2,390); with black dial and stainless-steel case (Ref. M040.427.16.052.00, $2,160) 

Price: $2,390

Score:

Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Very handsome, high-quality strap matches the watch’s style, as does the clasp. 9

Case (10): The high-quality case suits the retro style and is well built, but quite tall. 8

Dial and hands (10): The elegant dial and retro hands match the watch’s style and the color of its case. 8

Design (15): The retro style is upheld very consistently in the case, dial, crystal, hands, pushers, strap, clasp, etc. 14

Legibility (5): The time and the chronograph function are quite legible during the day, but the tachymeter scale appears distorted; nighttime readability is limited. 4

Operation (5): The buttons and crown are easy to operate, but the date quickset requires the use of a tool. 4

Wearing comfort (5): Despite the tall height of the case, wearing comfort is good due to the well-crafted leather strap. 4

Movement (20): Modified ETA caliber in Elaboré quality with an increased power reserve. 15

Rate results (10): The rate is well balanced and doesn’t stray beyond the permissible deviations of the Elaboré quality level. 7

Overall value (10): A well-made, authentic watch offering a very good price performance ratio. 9

TOTAL: 82 points

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In 2020, Swiss dive watch specialist Aquastar was relaunched with the simultaneous return of a slightly larger version of the Deepstar chronograph from the ‘60s (see February 2021 issue). Since November 2021, the brand’s first three-hand watch is offering a much more affordable option for those who missed out on the chronograph, or didn’t want to spend $3,590 on one of the four dial options (which were all sold out rather quickly).

Interestingly, Aquastar chose to not relaunch another of its classic designs (which is bad news for all those who had hoped for a return of the Benthos), but instead opted for a declination of the Deepstar’s design. The Deepstar II, like its 40.5-mm chronograph counterpart, comes with the large silver subdial, this time at 9 o’clock (instead of 3 o’clock) for the permanent second hand (instead of the minute chronograph counter). The satin-finished case, however, measures 37 mm (around 47 mm lug to lug) and is based on the design of the first dive watches from the brand, and therefore offers a very compact alternative.

Like the Deepstar Chronograph, the Deepstar II comes with a 200-meter water resistance, but is powered by a top-grade Swiss-made automatic movement from Sellita (SW290-1 with 38-hour power reserve). As a result, the Deepstar II is priced at $1,490 during the brand’s preorder period. The stainless-steel beads-of-rice bracelet is sold separately, but a Tropic and Horween leather strap are included. The polished, bidirectional bezel is mounted with ceramic bearings and features the brand’s typical decompression engravings for calculating repeated “no decompression” dives. While the bezel pip, hour and minute hand as well as the hour indexes are covered with high-density “old radium”-style Super-LumiNova, the second hand unfortunately remains invisible at night.

The Aquastar Deepstar II is currently available in three dial options: “Steel Grey” (pictured here), “Vintage Black” and “Blue Ray,” with each being limited to “an opening series” of 300 individually numbered pieces, which sounds like there might be an option for the brand to add more pieces and colors, in case demand is bigger than supply.

Surprisingly, the 37-mm watch wears bigger on the wrist than one might assume, which is mostly because of the 47-mm lug-to-lug length. The biggest surprise, however, is that Aquastar has managed to create a completely new model that looks like it has been part of the brand’s collection for almost exactly 60 years.

Aquastar Deepstar II Specs

Manufacturer: Montres Aquastar GmbH, Leugenestrasse 6, 2504 Biel/Bienne, Switzerland 

Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds (9 o’clock) 

Movement: Sellita SW290-1, automatic winding, 28,800 vph, 31 rubies, 38-hour power reserve, diameter = 25.60 mm, height = 5.60 mm 

Case: Stainless steel, screw-in crown and caseback, domed sapphire crystal, water resistant to 200 m, bidirectional ratcheting bezel (120 clicks) with decompression time calculator 

Strap and clasp: Tropic rubber strap with signed buckle 

Dimensions: Diameter = 37 mm, height = 14.80 mm, lug width = 19 mm 

Variations: With blue or black dial (each limited to 300 pieces) 

Warranty: 1 year 

Price: $1,890

To learn more about Aquastar, click here, and to subscribe to the WatchTime print magazine, click here.    

To mark the model’s 50th anniversary, Rolex has updated the Explorer II with a new movement and subtle design modifications. We look at what the most recent version can offer collectors, explorers and adventurers.

Before last year’s Watches and Wonders in April, speculation about the anniversary Explorer already ranged far and wide. Would it be given a ceramic bezel? Would it get a green hand, or other elements in the color Rolex has so often used for anniversary models? Would the case diameter be changed? Nothing of the sort. Changes to the new Explorer’s appearance are minimal. Even most watch enthusiasts can only identify the wider bracelet in a side-by-side comparison.

Was this disappointing? Actually not; design continuity is one factor that makes Rolex so successful and stable in value. While other brands replace their less popular models every two years with completely new versions, Rolex improves the technology of all of its watches — even those that are less in demand. And until a few years ago, the Explorer II was one of the Rolex sport models that could even be bought from a jeweler at a discount. Those times have passed. The new, improved model has gained considerable popularity despite minimal changes to its look. And this is not only due to the new caliber, which has since become almost standard in the Rolex portfolio.

50 Years on an Expedition 

How did it all begin? In 1971, Rolex presented the Explorer II as an expedition watch. The 24-hour display was designed to be particularly helpful for cave explorers who would work in the dark for days on end or for those on polar expeditions during the Arctic summer when the sun never sets. The Explorer II was the professional upgrade of the Explorer presented in 1953, which was without a date or a second time zone. This design icon continues to be produced today.

The Explorer II has been on numerous Arctic and Antarctic expeditions and has been worn by explorers of volcanoes and caves. The first model had bar hands with a pointed tip, rectangular indexes and an orange 24-hour hand. The second model followed in 1985. The 24-hour hand was now slimmer and red instead of orange. Applied markers were round in the typical Rolex style, and the familiar Mercedes-shaped hour hand was added. A white-dial version was offered alongside the black-dial model. The new Caliber 3085, which was also introduced in the GMT-Master II that same year, permitted the independent setting of the hour hand to a second time zone. This made the fixed coupling of the 24-hour hand to the hour hand a thing of the past and increased its usefulness.

In 2011, to mark the 40-year anniversary, Rolex took the next evolutionary step and based the 24-hour-hand model on the original “orange hand” model, as it’s known among collectors. Rolex also increased the case diameter from 40 to 42 mm and also enlarged the hands and indexes.

New Details 

The most significant modification of the revised 2021 Explorer, our test watch, is its more harmonious proportions. The bracelet, which has now grown to a width of 22 mm, the narrower lugs and the wider clasp make for a better and more attractive fit with the 42-mm case.

The dial shows only minimal changes. The applied white-gold indexes now have a matte black PVD coating to match the matteblack lacquered white-gold hands. The large markers and hands enhance legibility. But the white dial of our test watch is a disadvantage in this regard. The version with a black dial is easier to read. And now, and for the first time, Rolex has given the flat crystal an anti-glare coating on the inner surface — a noticeable change, which has a positive effect. At night, the Chromalight luminous material increases legibility with its intense blue glow, which lasts until the early morning hours. The Cyclops date magnifying lens increases legibility only if you look directly at the watch from the front.

Overall, the design with the sloping steel bezel with a sunburst finish, the white dial, and the orange hands is a success. However, the combination of modern-looking elements with typical Rolex and historical Explorer II elements is not as seamless as other icons of the brand — the Submariner and the GMT-Master II, which have remained unchanged for decades. The white dial and the 42-mm size are atypical for Rolex watches and are an interesting alternative to the majority of sport models with a black dial.

One tiny new detail can be found on the dial: a small Rolex crown at 6 o’clock. It indicates a new generation of movement, as on other Rolex models.

Movement Update 

The new time-zone Caliber 3285 has replaced the older 3187. With the exception of the Milgauss and the Air-King, a new generation of calibers powers all other Rolex models. The greatest advantage for the wearer is the extended power reserve, which now lasts three days instead of two, thanks to the higher efficiency of the Chronergy escapement. For this purpose, the geometry of the pallet fork and escape wheel was optimized. And with the LIGA process, in which these components are galvanic, Rolex was able to create a perforated and, therefore, lighter structure. Thanks to the nickel-phosphorous alloy used, the escapement does not react to magnetic fields. The new movement also has a ball bearing instead of a friction bearing.

When we opened our test watch, we noticed that Rolex has been further optimizing the movements without any fanfare. The rotor bearing now has 27 balls instead of just seven, which allows the rotor to run almost as quietly as a bushing-type rotor. This should please many Rolex fans.

The well-known advantages of Rolex movements have remained: the in-house Paraflex shock absorber, which is designed to return to its normal position better in the event of impacts, the extremely stable balance bridge instead of a balance cock that is only attached to one side, the free-sprung hairspring with Breguet overcoil made of a paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy and the free-sprung fine regulator with Microstella weights on the balance wheel. And the movement can be adjusted using a special tool, no disassembly required. Decorations include a sunburst finish, but no hand engraving is present.

As always at Rolex, the official chronometer certificate from the Swiss testing agency COSC confirms a high accuracy rate of the movement in different positions and at various temperatures. Rolex’s own in-house specifications demand even more precise regulation that ensures accuracy averaging between -2 and +2 seconds per day. On the timing machine, our test watch met these high expectations and showed an average deviation of only 0.3 seconds.

All six positions remained between -2 and +3 seconds; accordingly, the greatest deviation between the positions was 5 seconds. Amplitude differences were quite substantial, however, with a 50-degree drop between the vertical and horizontal positions.

In addition to accuracy, our test watch also meets Rolex expectations of quality. Finishing is virtually perfect — excellent polishing and satin finishes on the case, the bracelet with no play between the links, and a finely printed dial. Every component exudes high quality and can withstand careful scrutiny with a loupe.

The case has Rolex’s own screw-down Twinlock crown and is water resistant to 100 meters. This is sufficient. But we would have liked to see the more secure Triplock crown that offers a higher level of protection on this expedition-style watch, as on the GMT-Master II.

Despite the crown guards, the crown is easy to unscrew. The first position, as you would expect, winds the mainspring. When you pull the crown out to the second position, you can adjust the hour hand in hourly increments, which is useful when you travel to another time zone. The 24-hour hand indicates home time. If the hour hand moves over the date line, the date will change accordingly. This works forward as well as backward and is almost as smooth as a proper quickdate adjustment mechanism. The minute hand can be advanced in the third position, along with the 24-hour and normal hour hand. The secure Oysterlock clasp is also easy to use. Lifting a safety bar over the spring-held lever opens the sturdy folding clasp. The practical Easylink extension of up to 5 mm can be unfolded from the clasp.

At $8,550, the Explorer II has a list price below the GMT-Master II in Oystersteel ($9,700) with its rotating 24-hour bezel. The price is appropriate, and while demand is greater than supply, it’s still not as extreme as the GMT-Master II. Frequent buyers may have a realistic chance of getting this watch from a certified dealer in a shorter period of time, but count on waiting awhile.
Conclusion Evolution over revolution: Rolex avoids major design changes and, for this reason, once again, has built the best Explorer II of all time with its new movement and minor modifications like the more harmonious bracelet proportions.

Rolex Explorer II Specs

Manufacturer: Rolex SA, Rue François-Dussaud 3-7, 1211 Geneva, Switzerland 

Reference number: 226570 

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time zone 

Movement: In-house movement Caliber 3285, automatic, chronometer, 28,800 vph, 31 jewels, stop seconds, quickadjust date with hour advancing mechanism, Paraflex shock absorber, Glucydur balance with Microstella regulating screws, 70-hour power reserve 

Case: Stainless steel 904L, flat sapphire crystal with Cyclops date lens and inner anti-reflective coating, screwdown Twinlock crown, fully threaded 904L stainless-steel caseback, water resistant to 100 m 

Bracelet and clasp: Oyster bracelet made of 904L stainless steel, with safety folding clasp and incremental extension piece 

Rate results: Deviation in seconds per 24 hours

Dimensions: Diameter = 42 mm, height = 12.1 mm, weight = 164 g 

Price: $8,550

Scores:

Bracelet and clasp (max. 10 points):
The safety folding clasp with incremental extension piece and the steel bracelet are well made, sturdy and attractive. 9

Case (10):
The cleanly polished saltwaterresistant case could have a higher water resistance for an expedition watch. The screw-down crown provides security. 9

Dial and hands (10): Carefully crafted dial with applied indexes. The matte lacquered hands are not as attractive as the polished hands found on other Rolex models. 9

Design (15): Excellent design but not as timeless as other Rolex models. The wider bracelet provides better proportions. 13

Legibility (5): The large hands and indexes are still easy to read despite low contrast on the white dial. The blue luminous material shines for a long time. 4

Operation (5): The deeply grooved crown is easy to use. The date can be adjusted quickly, and the stop-seconds mechanism facilitates setting the time accurately. 5

Wearing comfort (5): Curved links make the watch comfortable to wear, even with the wider bracelet. Extension piece in the clasp. 5

Movement (20): The well-designed and sturdy inhouse movement provides a long power reserve. 19

Rate results (10):
Very low average deviation, but in the minus range. Values in all positions are close. 9

Overall value (10):
Appropriately priced and high value retention – but it’s hard to get. 9

TOTAL: 91 points

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Daniel Craig– aka watch enthusiast James Bond– was able to see this for himself. The British actor has been Omega’s international brand ambassador since the release of Casino Royale in 2006.

During his time in the host city, Craig watched the show-jumping at the Palace of Versailles and the skateboarding competitions at the Place de la Concorde, before stopping by the Omega House Paris to witness the brand celebrate its role as Official Timekeeper. On his wrist was a new watch model that will be officially launched later this year. The pictures are likely to cause much speculation among Omega fans.

At first glance, one might think that Craig was wearing the 60th Anniversary James Bond Seamaster. Although the watch in Paris has the matching mesh strap, white hands and indices, no date and what appears to be a steel case, it has a black dial in contrast to the blue shade of the above mentioned. Other subtle features hint at a new, long-awaited variant: a standard Seamaster without a date, which Omega has teased with previous Bond special editions.

To learn more, visit Omega, here.